Jewellery Making Supplies Blog

Gillian Salisbury, Odonata Studios, focuses on being a beginner in the field of amateur jewellery making. She speaks about her passion for creativity and her jewellery making journey so far. 

I’ve always been one for keeping my hands busy creating pretty things for the home, the kids or myself and I started making jewellery about 3 or 4 years ago after my 2nd child had left for university. I had more time on my hands and found myself looking at some of my beaded jewellery and thinking they needed re-stringing or re-wiring. Stringing wasn’t a problem. Who can’t put a thread or bit of elastic through a large holed bead? But I struggled a bit with knotting the elastic. It has a nasty habit of unknotting itself as you slip the finished bracelet over your wrist sending the beadwork scattering over the floor. A search on-line for knotting techniques gave me the solution (it’s a simple granny knot combined with a double twist granny knot on top) as well as a drop of clear nail varnish to set it firmly.

What got me well and truly hooked on the jewellery making was working with metal. I invested in a couple of pairs of little pliers for twisting and closing the jumprings and headpins and I’d spend hours trawling the internet for findings and beading accessories. I started combining my love for pretty beads with headpins to make charms, adding jumprings and chains and unusual clasps to become bracelets and necklaces. I was flattered and thrilled when friends and colleagues wanted to know where I’d bought them. Were they mad? Could they not see they were hand made at home? By me? Apparently not.

Requests started coming in for bracelets in various colour schemes and then I was asked to set up a stall at a local craft fair which turned out to be a HUGE boost to my confidence. Discovering that someone is happy to give you their hard earned money in exchange for something you made yourself is exciting and encouraging. It spurred me on.

I wanted to go further and start making the real stuff!

I knew people from a jewellery making forum who worked with silver and copper to make rings, pendants, brooches and more and I had gathered that it was actually possible to take evening classes in silversmithing! I was amazed to discover that jewellery making wasn’t a skill reserved exclusively for jewellery makers. Perhaps I’d assumed they came into the world all fully trained and skilled or that it was something which one needed to be trained in straight from school following an education in The Arts.

For just under £100 I enrolled at a local college in Silversmithing for Beginners. It was an eight week course and I LOVED it. The class was held in a huge workshop with 20 workbenches each with it’s own gas torch and loads of tools. I was in heaven and couldn’t believe I was going to get my hands on a gas torch and melt things. What a thrill. I had 2 great tutors who took my fellow students and me through the basics of working with metal. We were shown how to cut it properly, how to solder it together and how to form it and bend it.

Our first project was to cut a shape from a small square sheet or “blank” and solder it to an uncut blank before filling in the hollow shape with enamel. We could do what we liked with this, drill it to make a pendant, keyring or similar. I chose to leave mine undrilled and framed it. My VERY first piece.

We went on to make a simple ring so combined the techniques of cutting, texturing, soldering and shaping.

Our third project was personal choice and I chose to make a pair of lily flowered earrings complete with dangling stamens. They’re not perfect. I still have a long way to go but I was enjoying every minute of the learning.

I went on to take the second course a few months later: Intermediate Silversmithing.

I have to say this was not a successful class. It was run by a jewellery artist who would hand out printed worksheets then tell us to make what we wanted and ask her for help if we needed it. Then she would sit at a torch and work on pieces for her own portfolio. I wanted to learn how to bezel-set a cabochon stone into a ring and would ask her for help. “How do I attach the cup to the ring?”  How do I set the stone into the cup?” “How can I make this look smooth?” but I always got the answer “I don’t really know”. Jaw droppingly unhelpful. I would run home after class, jump on-line and set the questions to my forum friends who all had the right answers. Then I’d wait a week to get back into class to try out their tips and advice to complete that unit. It was all very time-consuming and frustrating.

I’d recommend getting good training in a good class and I have discovered that the best way to find them is in the jewellery making forums. They are populated by the most helpful and friendly people who, when asked the question, “Where can I get good training in my area” will probably be able to answer from experience as there’s bound to be someone from your area in there.

Despite the bad experience I continue learning and have made a couple of forged rings following a tutorial and when I feel more confident I will start making my own freestyle designs. I continue working with wire and beads while I gather a collection of tools; I have a couple of hammers and a saw, files, emery papers, and a torch and solders, and now have my very own disk cutters and a doming set with which to make my own bead caps.

For me this has all been a very slow process, and let’s face it…I’m never going to rock the jewellery world with my work, but it has been and still is the most enjoyable and stimulating hobby/interest I have had.

Take a look at Gillian’s pieces on her Odonata Studios Facebook Page by clicking here

I have always been creative and interested in art and crafts. As a young child I could often be found hunched over a project invariably involving enormous amounts of glitter,beads and glue.

After enjoying art and design so much at school; I then studied textiles and photography at college. This allowed me to start exploring jewellery making as part of my coursework.

At first I was literally making it up as I went along, using techniques I already knew such as weaving to create interesting pieces of work. Unfortunately there wasn’t much information or support about going on to study jewellery making at my college; it didn’t even occur to me, which is something Iregret. Instead I chose to do an art foundation course, focusing mainly on photography. I didn’t take well to the course and found the unstructured way of teaching very difficult to cope with. I somehow passed the course and then got a job in a photography lab, which I loved.

I was working part time so my now husband encouraged me to do a jewellery design course that was running one day a week at a local college. I loved it so much I started making pieces for family and friends. I had officially caught the jewellery bug and my collection of tools started to grow every day!

Gradually people started to request custom items and my portfolio of designs got bigger. I decided to start a website. My brand design was really important to me and I spent a lot of time honing the look of my business. At first this was mainly to showcase the work I had done and hopefully encourage new bespoke orders. I have always loved creating a completely unique bespoke design for a customer, being able to interpret their request and make an item to be treasured is my favourite part of jewellery making.

For a while the jewellery and website took a back seat as I got married, was made redundant and found a new job. I would occasionally get bespoke orders and these would remind me that I was seriously neglecting something I loved.

Eventually everything settled down and I found myself in a wonderful little photography lab, working four days a week.This meant that I had a spare day a week to devote to my passion and enabled me to start making jewellery again.I got involved with a local Winchester craft fair called ‘Handmade’ and had my first stall at their summer event.

Although I had a woeful amount of stock the fair went well and I enjoyed it immensely. I came away with a fresh perspective and knew I had a lot of work to do. I signed up to the next event and worked on building a range of ready to wear jewellery.

Starting with a simple range of tribal style earrings; which were normally made using horn and bone. I wanted to explore the elegant shapes that can be made using one continuous piece of sterling silver wire. They have gone on to be some of my most popular items both at fairs and online. The popularity of the range encouraged me to set up a Folksy and later on an Etsy shop which allows me to directly sell online around the world.

Two years later and my husband and I have now bought a house. I am continuing to take part in craft fairsand my online shops are doing well. Christmas 2011 was my busiest ever both with commissioned work and online sales. It was a very hectic few months, but wonderful to see my business grow. I have learnt to embrace social media as a way to self-promote and connect with potential customers. I also have had a wonderful opportunity to get a project published in ‘Making Jewellery’ magazines May issue.

It is really important that every part of my jewellery is handmade by me. I give every bespoke customer a booklet containing ‘making of’ pictures as a keepsake, so they can see their design becoming a reality. Being able to show my customers this through photography ensures they know their item is truly unique. I mostly work in silver and semi-precious stones although I have recently been lucky enough to make some wedding rings in gold.

My most recent work has been based around riveting using mixed metals to create layered pieces and I have been exploring up-cycling using old solid silver cutlery to make rings. I love learning new techniques and using them to create something different. My next experimental project will involve etching, which I have never done before.

While the dream of being able to work full time on my jewellery business may not be realistic with a mortgage to pay, I hope to continue devoting as much time as possible to my jewellery,especially my bespoke work. I am incredibly lucky to have such amazing support from my husbandwho has constantly encouraged me to keep going. It is a real pleasure to be doing something I love so much.

Website: www.sophiemariesmithdesign.co.uk

Email: sophie@sophiemariesmithdesign.co.uk

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/smsdesign

It was while doing a one year 3D foundation course that my tutor suggested I might be good at jewellery. I had grown up in an engineering background and although I hadn’t considered jewellery before, I am very grateful for her insight, as she was right!

I applied and was amazed to be accepted to do a degree in ‘Jewellery, Silversmithing and Allied Crafts’ at Sir John Cass in London.  The course included two placements in the trade.  I graduated with an honours degree in 1987 and was invited to work for one of the jewellery manufacturing  firms I had done my placement with.  I worked as a goldsmith there for several years, doing all manner of work, setting, polishing, occasionally designing.   It was while I was there that I was held up in an armed raid and although I was physically unharmed, it has had a bearing on the person I am today.

After being married for a couple of years I sadly suffered an early miscarriage and decided to leave the environment of the jewellery company as chemicals are a necessary part of jewellery production and I didn’t want to jeopardise any further pregnancy.  I continued to make jewellery from a small bench I fashioned from a plank screwed to the wall at home, but only for myself and friends.  I even took jewellery classes so that I could have access to equipment, but ended up helping out the class tutor!

I did indeed have a daughter and jewellery took a back seat until we moved to Devon when she was two. A couple of years later I had my son. Then I gradually started making again, I did jewellery parties for friends, and bought myself some equipment; my bench and a polishing machine.  I still had all my old tools, several handed down from my father, a treasured Archimedes drill and an ancient tool box.  I was determined to continue without borrowing money, which restricted my progress I think.

I started sketching again, photographing everything that caught my eye, getting out and about in the beautiful surroundings.

This pendant was inspired by the small stones jammed into a pebble on the beach.

I took a job data inputting for few years to help make ends meet, but for someone creative it was mind numbing.  I started doing local craft fairs at weekends, all the time getting my old skills back up to scratch.

This Nobble ring was inspired by a rubber finger protector I used while data inputting!  I always kept a notebook, or envelope handy to sketch ideas.

Then a work friend heard of someone looking for a local jeweller to be part of a co-operative gallery.  It seemed a good opportunity for me to make a go of it with my jewellery so I handed in my notice and thought I was back on track as a jeweller.  I got my jewellery into various local galleries and worked one day a week in the co-operative.  The beginning of a recession was never going to be the best time to start up as a jeweller!

I took my jewellery up to London for Liberties ‘Open Design Call’ which was an experience and one that I am glad I did.  I had a positive response although it didn’t lead to anything.

I was doing regular craft fairs but often not covering the cost of the table.  Which meant I had less to spend on the next fair and so on. I found some occasional ’piece work’ with a local jeweller, which got me back into the small factory set up again, which felt rather like home.  So my work skills have grown as I can work on items all the way through the casting process from model making, mold making,  waxing to finished set and polished casting.

Pair of silver rings over laid with 18ct gold and set with a 3.9ml diamond

I love what I do, I am always making something, often with bits of scrap.  I have a website which performs poorly, despite my best efforts, yet again hampered by lack of funds to invest in a better one.  I have concentrated on enlarging my web presence in the last year and am active on social websites, which has seen interest in my designs grow.  I enter any competitions I can find and have just recently won a new pendant dill, courtesy of Cooksons’s Gold forum theme competitions.  Just in the nick of time as my old one was about to pack up completely!  I work very much in the old fashioned way, no flashy computer design for me, I prefer a pencil and a bit of paper.  I do the occasional commission, and last December I made my first engagement ring, which was a joy to do.

Hand cut and formed baby and flowers engagement ring, set with two diamonds.

Pierced 9ct gold mistletoe and vine necklace wit silver berries.

I am not sure what this next year will bring, but having come so far and tried for so long, I don’t want to give up on something I enjoy doing so much.

To see more of Kim’s beautiful designs, visit: www.stylesdesign.co.uk

In 1992 I left school and took a foundation in Art & Design.

At the point of completing the course, I should have followed my heart, and gone on to study fine art.

I went on to take a degree in Film & Video at (what was then) West Surrey College of Art & Design. In spite of all my best efforts to the contrary, I graduated with a shiny new BA(Hons) in 1996.

Work in television production followed. Highlights included electrocuting myself while testing products for a review show, audibly vomiting during a live cookery programme and being pecked on the head by an eagle owl.

Despite these giddy showbiz heights, I missed my artistic endeavours, so took a City & Guilds in Jewellery Design specialising in Silver at night school. It was here, (thanks to my fantastic tutor Nicholas Keogh) that I discovered a real passion for working with silver.

When I had my daughter in 2005, I became a full-time mum, and my husband and I moved back to Cardiff. My son followed in 2008. A couple of brushes with death for two of the four Niziblians led to us having a discussion about what exactly we wanted to do with our lives.

I dusted off my tools and made a few pieces of jewellery. I showed them to people, and they all sold. With the support of my fantastic family, that same week in April 2009, I became officially self-employed as a jewellery maker.

When I was little I wanted to be an archaeologist, and I think the idea of discovering something hidden in the earth stuck with me.  I love working with gemstones, minerals and crystals in their uncut and unpolished state.  Lots of my work is designed to look ‘found’.  I really enjoy playing with finishes, especially oxidising and the range of colour-play it can give.  There’s definitely a perverse pleasure in making something clean and perfect, then working it back to look distressed, aged and worn. Although I like trying out new materials, silver is my real love, it’s fantastically easy to transform and the variety of ways you can work it are vast.  It’s a little bit magic.

I currently work from a studio in TactileBOSCH in Cardiff, where I am on a constant learning curve. I’m always trying my hand at new techniques, and find inspiration in many places, from nature to science-fiction.  I recently had a go at working with brass, silver and copper for some large-scale autumnal jewellery for an alternative fashion magazine.  The oak-leaf cuff I made won me a new workbench in Cookson’s design of the week competition. I was delighted, and it’s going to see a lot of use!

As for the future, I’m looking into expanding the range of ready-to-buy jewellery I offer.  I plan to keep experimenting, learning and creating for as long as I possibly can.  I consider myself incredibly lucky to be doing something I love so very much.

Take a look at Lydia’s gorgeous work:  www.niziblian.com

Being the son of a jeweller, jewellery has always been a part of my life and something that I’ve been fond of.

I originally studied at Bucks New University as a metalworker but soon found I preferred the smaller scale of jewellery. I came out of my BA with a good skills set and a body of work that whilst looked good, wasn’t something I felt passionately about. This influenced my decision to go on to do my MA at UCA Farnham where I would have the time to focus on a new set of designs that were more “me”.

During this time I did a 1 day course in anodising aluminium, a process that makes the metal more durable but also allows it to be dyed vibrant colours and patterns. Having previously only worked in mainly silver I was keen to see what could be done with this new material.

My ideas were based around ways of making people smile through the wearing of jewellery. As I also work in an after school club I fell in love with the drawings that children come up with.

I find that the way a child picks up on certain details and the quirkiness of their drawings are fantastic and aren’t something that we as adults can easily replicate (I wish I could draw as well as some of these children!)

I particularly like their versions of animals and find that they are something that most people can relate to. As a result I based my range of jewellery on them by transforming these into wearable pieces. I combine the anodised aluminium with mixed media such as feathers to create something colourful and fun.

Pieces such as my peacock brooch are based off drawings that I did when I was a child. But I often have commissions from parents who want their own children’s drawings turning into something they can wear.

Since graduating I was selected by the Designer Jewellers Group to exhibit with them as one of their 6 new designers at their winter exhibition at the Barbican. From that I won their Stephen Maer award which allowed me to become an associate member for another 2 years.

My work can currently be seen at the Barbican with the Designer Jewellers Group from 9^th Nov to 6^th Jan.

Contact details:

Phone: 07973770691

Email: info@TomMcDowellDesign.com

Web: www.TomMcDowellDesign.com

Facebook:

 http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tom-McDowell-Design/124983417549475

Louise West, currently studying for her MA ADAPT, talks about her contemporary lace journey so far and her future prospects.

My creative journey started during my BA (Hons) in Textile Design, which I started as a mature student in 2006. During the first year I had the opportunity to do a commission for a London based architect and produce the lace design for the facade of the Nottingham Contemporary, taken from antique lace. The design was then cast into concrete to clothe the building.

This led to other opportunities, doing voluntary work at a local museum, where I now have an exhibition – “The Vital Statistics of Lace”. The exhibition starts my contemporary lace journey, with very traditional pieces of lace, some of which are my own design and others from the 19th century which I have worked and reinterpreted. It also features a contemporary piece from the first stage of the MA programme I am currently studying.

I am now in my second year on the MA ADAPT (Art and Design Applied Practice and Theories) at the University of Derby and this is allowing me to explore a wider range of media for the portrayal of lace. It is this that has led to the development of my silver jewellery inspired by lace. Some of the pieces are obviously from lace but others are slightly more abstract in their appearance. My MA working is currently developing using traditional techniques with historical inspiration and memories but using less traditional materials and methods.

In April this year I took a big step in moving into a studio in Bank’s mill studios, Derby, to allow me to develop the silver jewellery side of the work, to be able to offer workshops in both lace and PMC and also to give me space to continue the larger scale of lace for the MA. It has made a big difference to my work allowing it to develop much faster than previously. One of my favourite moments this year was entering the Cookson’s Mothers day jewellery competition with a piece in memory of my late Mother, and having the fortune to win it. This came at a difficult time as it was two years since losing her, and so an honour in her memory.

Plans for the future – finishing the MA next year, continuing teaching lacemaking and building on the workshops offered for PMC, talks to interested groups, and exhibiting and selling jewellery at the National Christmas Lacemakers Fair,(3rd December) and the Harrogate Lace Event (31st March 2012) and in my spare time continue with the exciting world of Precious Metal Clays.

More photos of Louise’s work, exhibitions and more detail about her designs can be found on her website at http://www.louisewestlacedesign.co.uk