When was the Argentium alloy created?

Argentium was created in 1991 by Master Silversmith and metallurgist, Peter Johns from Middlesex University. It took 10 years of research to produce and came about when Metaleurop (who mine and refine metals) contacted Johns regarding two metals they had found, namely indium and germanium which they were trying to find new uses for. Johns chose to work with germanium and the rest, as the saying goes, is history!

So what is the difference between Argentium silver and sterling silver?

As mentioned, sterling silver is a popular alloy in jewellery making, which comprises of a mixture of 92.5% pure silver with 7.5% made up of other alloys, usually copper. Argentium however, contains a greater amount of pure silver depending on the grade (935 which contains 93.5% pure silver, or 960 which contains 96% pure silver), with the remainder being made up of other alloys, such as a small amount of germanium. This unique addition of germanium gives Argentium silver beneficial attributes such as fire stain resistance, improved durability and also a higher melting point, which translates to a higher annealing temperature and flow point. Additionally, Argentium silver can be fused and welded much easier than sterling silver which means it is often favoured by metalsmiths, and it is also 7 times more tarnish resistant that sterling silver.

Does Argentium silver tarnish at all?

Although Argentium silver is tarnish resistant, it’s worth making sure that tools you use on the Argentium silver do not have excess residue from other metals on them, as this could cause cross-contamination and leave your work with some tarnish. If possible, keep your polishing buffs for use with Argentium separate to those that you use with other alloys. In very simple terms, if you replace the copper in silver with germanium you increase the tarnish resistance significantly whilst making the resulting metal stronger, whiter, easier to fuse and weld, but also with lower temperature hardening capabilities which is all great news for the silversmith!

Argentium vs Sterling Silver: What’s the Difference?

Q: What is Argentium silver?

Argentium is one of a new generation of silver alloys. It was developed specifically to combat the tarnish that occurs as silver oxidises when it comes into contact with air, which is a major drawback for all who love silver. However, Argentium also boasts a whole range of other properties besides this, which help to make it an exceedingly clever alloy for those who choose to embrace it.

Q: What is sterling silver?

What is sterling silver made of? Standard sterling silver as we know it is made up of 92.5% pure silver with the remaining 7.5% consisting of other metals such as copper, which makes it harder and more suitable for a wide range of varied applications. However, that 7.5% of copper causes fire scale (dark staining which occurs during prolonged heating) and tarnishing when exposed to air, meaning that silver has to be regularly cleaned to maintain its appearance. The jewellery industry has tried to overcome this problem by rhodium plating higher quality silver products, but obviously this incurs additional cost and is not always viable for smaller manufacturers (rhodium resists tarnish and has a lovely bright, white finish which is why it is used on white gold and silver, but it is very expensive).

Silver is a popular choice in jewellery making, but not all silver alloys are the same. Two of the most common options are traditional Sterling Silver and the more modern Argentium Silver. Both offer different benefits for makers and wearers alike. Understanding the differences between them is crucial whether you’re designing for durability, ease of work, tarnish resistance, or ethical sourcing.

What is Argentium Silver?

Argentium Silver is a newer type of silver alloy that contains a small amount of germanium. Typically available in two grades (935 and 960), Argentium has a higher silver content than traditional 925 Sterling Silver. Germanium is the key to Argentium’s exceptional tarnish resistance and its ability to self-heal surface oxide damage, which helps it retain a bright, white finish over time.

Argentium was developed in the 1990s as a modern alternative to Sterling Silver. It offers improved working properties and is particularly appealing to jewellers looking for high-performance materials that also support sustainable making practices.

Composition Comparison

Sterling Silver: 92.5% silver, 7.5% copper
Argentium 935: 93.5% silver, with germanium replacing some copper
Argentium 960: 96% silver, even higher purity with added benefits

Key Benefits of Argentium Silver

Tarnish Resistance: Argentium resists tarnishing much better than traditional Sterling Silver, reducing the need for frequent polishing.
Fusing and Soldering: Argentium fuses cleanly without solder, making it excellent for granulation and joining without seams.
Work Hardening and Annealing: Argentium hardens more slowly than Sterling, meaning less frequent annealing during forming. It also reacts well to heat-hardening treatments.
Firestain-Free: Thanks to the presence of germanium, Argentium does not develop firestain, reducing the finishing time after soldering or heating.
Bright Finish: Its naturally bright white finish requires less polishing, especially appealing for high-polish designs.

What is Sterling Silver?

Sterling silver, on the other hand, is a traditional silver alloy that’s been used for centuries. It consists of 92.5% pure silver, with the remaining 7.5% usually made up of copper. This combination makes the metal strong enough for everyday use, which is why it’s so widely used in jewellery.

However, copper is also the reason sterling silver is prone to tarnishing and firescale—a dark staining that appears during heating. While methods like rhodium plating can help, these add cost and complexity.

Argentium vs Sterling Silver: Key Differences

Feature	Sterling Silver	Argentium Silver
Purity	92.5%	93.5% (Argentium 935) or 96% (Argentium 960)
Main Alloying Metal	Copper	Germanium
Tarnish Resistance	Prone to tarnish	Highly tarnish-resistant
Firescale	Common	Resistant
Hardness	Work-hardened	Precipitation-hardened (heat)
Melting Point	Lower	Higher
Weldability	Standard	Excellent for fusing and welding
Appearance	White with slight warmth	Brighter, whiter finish
Cost	More affordable	Higher cost due to benefits

Argentium is stronger, brighter, and cleaner to work with than traditional sterling. It’s also seven times more tarnish-resistant, making it ideal for anyone wanting low-maintenance, high-performance silver jewellery.

Working with Argentium Silver

Soldering: Requires a gentler touch and lower-temperature solders.
Fusing: You can fuse components directly, ideal for clean joins in chain making or granulation.
Finishing: Reduced need for polishing due to the natural brightness.
Shaping: It work-hardens more slowly, allowing for longer working periods without annealing

However, it requires complete commitment. Mixing standard silver with Argentium or using shared tools can reduce its effectiveness. If you’re ready to take the plunge, it’s best to switch fully for the best results.

Argentium Silver is a great alternative to traditional Sterling for many jewellery makers. With its bright white finish, tarnish resistance, and sustainable qualities, it’s a material that performs well in both the workshop and the marketplace. Whether you’re an experienced maker or experimenting with new techniques, Argentium is a smart upgrade worth considering.

If you want to find out more about our Argentium range visit cooksongold.com/argentium-silver

Save this for later

Written by

What is Argentium Silver?

Composition Comparison

Key Benefits of Argentium Silver

What is Sterling Silver?

Argentium vs Sterling Silver: Key Differences

Working with Argentium Silver

Cooksongold

Related Guides

Top Tips for Maintaining Your Precious Metal Jewellery

How to Repair Broken Jewellery Pieces

Make Something Magical Out of Your Metal This Christmas

Silver Jewellery Making- Top Tips

What do I Need for Silver Jewellery Making?

Sign up to our newsletter

Resources, guides & advice from the jewellery making experts

Share this post