Stone setting is a way of securely attaching stones into a piece of jewellery. You can use various techniques to incorporate stones into your designs including: Claw, Gypsy, Bezel, Illusion, Pave, Channel, Tension and Grain.
Which of the stone setting techniques are suitable for your project? Well, the stone’s shape and hardness will dictate this. So it’s worth getting to know which types of stone settings will work with the gemstones you would like to work with. Here are some of the most commonly used stone settings to help you get to grips with what they are and how to use them in your projects.
Types of stone settings
- Claw Settings: A small amount of metal is used to make up claw settings, allowing light to pass through the stone as well as easy access to the stone for cleaning. Claw settings are made up of prongs, which are used when bent over the stone to secure in place.
- Gypsy Settings: Used by the surrounding metal to set a stone, gypsy settings make the stone you are setting appear flush within the piece of jewellery.
- Bezel Settings: Bezel stone settings, or rub-over settings, require a tight wall of metal around the stone. It sits on a ledge of wire or a sheet of metal at the base, creating a wall and pushing it against the stone.
- Illusion Settings: This type of stone setting is used to visually exaggerate the appearance of a small stone. This is done by a stone being set into a collet with a large wall.
- Pave Settings: The word pave originates from the French meaning paved. Pave setting uses small stones to cover the surface of a piece of jewellery. Tiny beads of metal are pulled up from the surface and are pushed up over the stone.
- Channel Settings: This type of stone setting is usually used in lines. Stones that are channel set are supported on two sides and underneath. The two sides are pushed down to tighten the stone in place on your jewellery stone setting.
- Tension Settings: Using the metal surrounding it to secure the stone in place, this stone setting requires tension through the metal to support the stone. A tension setting allows light to pass through it and show its full beauty.
- Grain Settings: Grain settings consist of small stones in lines. Tiny beads or grains of metal are pulled up from the surface and are pushed up over the stone.
Stone Setting Jewellery: Bezel Setting on a Pendant
Knowing how to set a stone in a ring, necklace or any other jewellery piece couldn’t be easier with our step-by-step guide.
The tools needed for the setting are listed in the kit list of this article, here’s some additional information
- 1mm Silver Sheet (15mm x 40mm and 12mm x 50mm)
- 20mm of 3mm x 3mm Fine Silver Strip
Step 1:
Take the 12mm x 50mm silver, the texturing hammer and the flat stake. Place your silver sheet onto the flat stake, holding one edge of the silver sheet. Use the texturing hammer to strike the sheet numerous times in one direction, turning the silver sheet and repeat on the opposite end.
Step 2:
Using a half round file, use the flat edge and file the edges straight. Using Emery sticks, buff the edges to become smoother.
Step 3:
Using dividers, measure 42mm on a steel ruler and score a line width ways in the textured sheet. Saw pierce along this line. The textured sheet will have become hard as it has been worked on, so it is ready to anneal, quench and pickle. To create a curve, push the non-textured edge against a large curve of your choice. If you have a bangle mandrel this would work perfectly.
Step 4:
Place the curved edge against a 15mm x 40mm piece, approximately the same length. Take a sheet of coarse emery paper and rub the edges down until it’s flat, and sit flush onto the larger piece of sheet.
Step 5:
Using a borax cone and dish, make up flux and with a flux brush dab flux on the sheet and the just buffed edge. Then, place the curved piece of sheet onto one side of silver sheet. With shears, snip two small pallions of hard solder and place on the fluxed join.
Step 6:
Using a hand torch, gently apply heat, gradually increasing until it is hot enough and the solder flows. Then quench & pickle. Repeat on the opposite end, again using hard solder.
Tip: When using more than three solder joins with your jewellery stone setting tools, use hard solder as many times as possible!
Step 7:
To make the bezel, wrap the strip around the stone, letting the strip overlap. Once you have the correct shape, remove the stone. Where the strip overlaps, saw pierce or cut with end cutters and make sure the two ends are flush with no gaps.
Flux the join of the bezel – place a small pallion of hard solder on the join with tweezers. Apply heat gently and evenly to the bezel until the solder flows, then remove flame. Quench and pickle.
Step 8:
Place the bezel onto a triblet, or use round nose pliers, and tap with a mallet to get true circle. Check the stone fits at this stage – if the bezel is too large, saw pierce down the solder line. If the stone still does not fit, file the ends. The bezel strip will be higher than the stone, to reduce the height rub the base against coarse emery paper. The height of the bezel needs to be approximately level with the beginning of the curve of the stone.
Step 9:
Place the bezel on the right hand corner of your piece. Flux and add medium solder pallions around the outside of bezel. Solder on wire mesh and soldering block. Apply heat evenly, starting gently and gradually increase until the solder flows. Quench and pickle.
Tip: A wire mesh is advisable when stone setting so the heat can be spread evenly through the piece. This will also prevent the bezel overheating and maybe melting! Using the remaining textured sheet, curve over a triblet or using round nosed pliers to make the loop for your necklace.
Step 10:
Rub edges on emery paper until flush. Flux loop and centre of piece. Place together. Using shears, cut pallions of easy silver solder and place two pallions on either side. Heat gently and gradually increase until solder flows. Quench and pickle. Clean up your piece going through grades of emery paper leaving a matte finish.
Tip: Use oxidizing solution on the textured strip of the pendant and polish raised areas to enhance the appearance of the texture on your stone setting jewellery piece.
Step 11:
For jewellery stone setting, try to gain as much grip as possible. Using a flat bezel pusher, push one part of the bezel wall against the stone. Push in at points ‘north’, ‘south’, ‘east’ and ‘west’ to avoid a build-up of metal. Push in between these points and continue to do this around the stone.
Bringing the pusher up to a higher angle, and apply pressure against the middle and top edges of the bezel. Use a burnisher rib for the top edge to get rid of sharp edges and brighten the silver.
Step 12:
Now, hook the silver snake chain through the loop. You have finished your project and successfully followed our steps to stone setting jewellery.
Step 13:
Display your jewellery on a jewellery stand. Not got one? Find your favourite jewellery displays at Cooksongold.
Top Tips for Stone Setting in Jewellery
Stone setting is a crucial step in the creation of exquisite jewellery. It requires precision and skill to ensure that the stones are securely held in place while enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal of the piece. Whether you are a professional jeweller or a hobbyist, here are some top tips to consider when it comes to stone setting:
· Choose the Right Tools – Having the right tools is essential for successful stone setting. Invest in high-quality tools such as setting burs, prong pushers, burnishers, and bezel rollers. These tools will help you achieve clean and precise results.
· Plan Your Design – Before starting the stone-setting process, plan your design carefully. Consider the type of stones you want to use, the setting style (prong, bezel, channel, etc.), and the overall design of the piece. This will help you determine the best approach and ensure that the stones are set securely.
· Prepare the Metal – Properly preparing the metal is crucial for stone setting. Make sure the metal surface is clean and free from any debris or oxidation. Use a polishing cloth or a mild cleaning solution to remove any dirt or tarnish. This will ensure better adhesion and prevent any damage to the stones.
· Choose the Right Setting Technique – There are various stone-setting techniques to choose from, each with its own advantages and challenges. Prong setting is the most common and versatile technique, allowing maximum light exposure to the stone. Bezel setting offers a more secure and protective setting, while channel setting provides a sleek and modern look. Consider the characteristics of the stone and the desired aesthetic to determine the best technique.
· Secure the Stones Properly – When setting stones, it is crucial to ensure a secure fit. For prong settings, ensure that the prongs are evenly spaced and grip the stone firmly without covering too much of its surface. In bezel settings, make sure the metal is snugly fitted around the stone, leaving no gaps or spaces. Properly securing the stones will prevent them from becoming loose or falling out over time.
· Use Proper Technique – When setting stones, it is important to use the correct technique to avoid damaging the stones or the metal. Apply consistent and even pressure when pushing the metal over the stone or tightening the prongs. Avoid excessive force, as it can lead to cracks or fractures in the stone or damage to the metal.
· Practice Patience and Precision – Stone setting requires patience and precision. Take your time to ensure each stone is set correctly. Use a magnifying glass or a loupe to closely examine your work and make any necessary adjustments. Small details can make a big difference in the final result.
· Finishing Touches – Once all the stones are set, give your piece a final polishing to enhance its overall appearance. Use a polishing cloth or a buffing wheel to remove any scratches or marks on the metal and bring out its shine. This step will give your jewellery a professional and refined finish.
In conclusion, stone setting in jewellery requires careful planning, the right tools, and precise techniques. By following these top tips, you will be able to make stunning pieces that showcase the beauty of the stones while ensuring their secure placement.
Looking to start your stone setting jewellery, or interesting in learning how to make a bezel setting? Pick up all of your jewellery stone setting tools from Cooksongold for any jewellery making project.
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