Whether you’re crafting fine jewellery or just getting started with silversmithing, silver remains a timeless favourite. But did you know there’s more than one kind of silver used in jewellery making? Sterling silver may be the go-to, but Argentium is quickly growing in popularity for a very good reason.
So, what exactly sets them apart?
What is Argentium silver?
Argentium silver is part of a new generation of silver alloys designed to improve on traditional sterling silver. Developed in 1991 by British Master Silversmith and metallurgist Peter Johns of Middlesex University, it was created to tackle one of silver’s biggest flaws: tarnishing.
After a decade of research, Johns developed an alloy that included germanium, a metal that significantly boosts silver’s resistance to tarnish, while also improving strength, brightness, and workability. This innovative alloy is now known as Argentium silver.
Today, Argentium is protected by a registered trademark and proudly bears a unique Winged Unicorn logo, a symbol of quality and innovation.
Argentium logo, Featuring the Winged Unicorn
What is sterling silver?
Sterling silver, on the other hand, is a traditional silver alloy that’s been used for centuries. It consists of 92.5% pure silver, with the remaining 7.5% usually made up of copper. This combination makes the metal strong enough for everyday use, which is why it’s so widely used in jewellery.
However, copper is also the reason sterling silver is prone to tarnishing and firescale—a dark staining that appears during heating. While methods like rhodium plating can help, these add cost and complexity.
Argentium vs Sterling Silver: Key Differences
| Feature | Sterling Silver | Argentium Silver |
| Purity | 92.5% | 93.5% (Argentium 935) or 96% (Argentium 960) |
| Main Alloying Metal | Copper | Germanium |
| Tarnish Resistance | Prone to tarnish | Highly tarnish-resistant |
| Firescale | Common | Resistant |
| Hardness | Work-hardened | Precipitation-hardened (heat) |
| Melting Point | Lower | Higher |
| Weldability | Standard | Excellent for fusing and welding |
| Appearance | White with slight warmth | Brighter, whiter finish |
| Cost | More affordable | Higher cost due to benefits |
In simple terms, Argentium is stronger, brighter, and cleaner to work with than traditional sterling. It’s also seven times more tarnish-resistant, making it ideal for anyone wanting low-maintenance, high-performance silver jewellery.
Does Argentium silver tarnish?
Argentium silver is designed to be tarnish-resistant, not completely tarnish-proof. Under normal conditions, it will stay bright for far longer than sterling silver. However, cross-contamination from tools previously used on other metals (especially copper-based ones) can introduce tarnish. Tip: Keep a dedicated set of tools and polishing cloths just for Argentium to preserve its finish.
Working with Argentium Silver
Argentium is a dream to work with once you adapt your studio setup. It offers:
- No firescale – saving time and effort during finishing.
- Fusing without solder – great for creating seamless joins.
- Stronger and whiter pieces – perfect for modern aesthetics.
However, it requires complete commitment. Mixing standard silver with Argentium or using shared tools can reduce its effectiveness. If you’re ready to take the plunge, it’s best to switch fully for the best results.
Why Isn’t Argentium More Common?
Change in the jewellery world can be slow. While Argentium has been well-received by makers, it’s still gaining awareness among the wider public. Because the visual differences between Argentium and rhodium-plated sterling silver are subtle, its benefits often require education rather than just display.
That’s why the Argentium brand identity is so important. Look out for the Winged Unicorn hallmark—your sign of authenticity and quality.
Frequently Asked Questions About Argentium Silver
1. Is Argentium silver real silver?
Yes, absolutely. Argentium is a precious metal alloy with either 93.5% or 96% pure silver content—higher than sterling.
2. Can I mix Argentium with sterling silver?
No. Mixing alloys or using contaminated tools will cancel out Argentium’s benefits, including tarnish resistance.
3. Is Argentium more expensive than sterling silver?
Yes, but the time savings, longevity, and reduced maintenance often justify the cost, especially for professional makers.
4. Is Argentium hypoallergenic?
Yes. Argentium is nickel-free and hypoallergenic, making it suitable for most people with metal sensitivities.
5. Can I hallmark Argentium?
Yes, Argentium silver can indeed be hallmarked in the UK, and the information you’ve provided is largely accurate. However, there are a few clarifications to consider:
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