What are the different types of necklace chains?
If you’re planning on including a chain in your jewellery designs, you may want to understand the different types of chain and the style options that you can use. There are many different types of necklaces – naturally, it can be difficult to know which one will best work with your design.
Our handy guide to the different jewellery chain types will help you understand all the options available to you, so you can choose a design that complements your jewellery.
To supplement this, you might want to check our handy necklace length guide below too – for guidance on how long a chain should be so your design hangs in the right place.
9 different types of chain to experiment with
Use our straightforward guide to the different jewellery chain styles to help you choose the right chain for what you need – and one that will complement your jewellery designs.
What is a cable chain?
Cable chain is the traditional link jewellery chain style we know and love. It’s known for its oval links that are interlocked and uniform in construction – in a style that resembles the iron chain used to anchor ships. There are many variations of the cable chain – some are round, some are flattened, and some have a pendant attached. You might also know it as ‘link chain’ – it’s one of the classic jewellery chain types.
What is a curb chain?
Curb chain features links that have been flattened and twisted, which interlock tightly together to form a chain. A slight twist on the classic cable jewellery chain types, curb chains are popular in very fine formations at around 1mm and much chunkier variations, ideal for creating statement necklaces. Even more popular is the diamond cut curb chain, which features facets across the surface of each link for a fine professional finish.
What is a figaro chain?
Figaro chain features flattened links that aren’t uniform in size. Typically, it consists of two or three shorter links separated by one elongated oval link. It’s available in a variety of sizes, thicknesses and styles – such as the diamond cut, which leaves a visible sparkle that captures the light. Figaro chains are often worn by men and can be personalised with crosses, pendants or medallions – which makes them very popular.
What is a ball chain?
Ball chain consists of small sheet metal balls, all identical in shape and size. Each ball is hollow and features two small holes through which short lengths of metal wire is threaded to link them all together. Ball chains are one of the best types of chain necklaces to use with small modern charms. You can also get larger ball chains, which are commonly accessorised with military-style dog tags to create a distinctive look.
What is a trace chain?
Trace chain is one of the most delicate types of chain necklace, consisting of fine and small round or oval-shaped links. Each link is uniform in size and generally no wider than 2mm. You can get trace chains in a variety of thicknesses, making them excellent for creating delicate charm necklaces with dainty pendants. When you need extra sparkle, choose diamond cut trace chain for a more intricate look.
What is a belcher chain?
Belcher chain is a type of trace (or link) chain made with fairly broad D-shaped links that are uniform in shape and size. You might also hear it called ‘rolo chain’. It’s available in a variety of sizes and alloys, and can be worn alone or stacked with other chain necklaces – for a more elaborate look. This versatility has made belcher one of the most popular chain jewellery chain types.
What is a rope chain?
Rope chain consists of small links that have been carefully woven together to form twisted, rope-like lengths of chain. There are many versions of the rope chain, each varying in intricacy and complexity. Such a delicate piece of work, larger rope chains are often worn to draw more attention to the rope pattern. However, smaller chains can also be worn with pendants or stacked for a layered look.
What is a box chain?
Box chain is made of a series of cubed links and is sometimes referred to as a “Venetian chain”. It’s made using round wire that is then flattened and formed into a series of box-like shapes. These small cubes are then linked together to form a sturdy chain that is smooth in appearance and can be finished off with larger pendants. Thinking of adding your own pendants to some finished box chain? Make sure that the bail you make is large enough to fit the box chain.
What is a snake chain?
Snake chain is made of lightly curved plates tightly woven with thin links to form a flexible tubular shape. It gets its name from its smooth, scale-like texture, which resembles snakeskin. Often referred to as ‘Brazilian chain’, it’s extremely flexible and comes in a variety of lengths. Snake chain is popular with many jewellery makers – either as a standalone chain or combined with a pendant.
Code numbers on different types of chain
The code numbers that precede the different types of necklace chains relate to the size of the chain. For example:
- 12/18 Trace – 12 = gauge wire in inches (0.012), 18 = links per inch
- 18/3/1 Figaro – 18 = gauge wire (0.018), 3 = small links per inch, 1 = large links per inch
- 28/6/6 Z Curb – 28 = gauge wire (0.028), 6 = links per inch, 6 = double link
The information that is most relevant will be the second part of the number code i.e. the links per inch.
Choosing between the types of necklace chains
Now you’ve learnt more about some of the different types of chain necklaces available to you, you may be wondering how to choose the right one for your design. Here are a few things to consider when choosing the chain style that will best suit you and your work:
Finished or unfinished
If you’re just starting to create your own jewellery pieces, then you may not want to try your hand at creating your own chains just yet. Why not pick up some finished chain instead? That way you can concentrate on perfecting your pendants and charms before assembling the perfect necklace or bracelet.
On the other hand, our loose chain is unfinished and can be cut to whatever length you require, making it perfect for those unique jewellery designs, bracelets or repair jobs. Simply add your chosen chain end and clasp.
Type of metal
Use the metal that will best complement the findings, beads, and stones that you’ve already been working with. If you’ve invested in some sterling silver findings, then choose a sterling silver chain to accompany the components you already have in stock. We have multiple alloys in different types of chain necklaces to choose from – this includes sterling silver, yellow gold, white gold, gold filled and red gold as part of our loose chain and finished chain selection.
What size necklace chain do I need?
How much of a statement do you want to make with your necklaces? If you’re creating delicate charm necklaces, you’ll want a fine chain that complements the charms. But if you’re creating a statement piece that requires a little more support, make sure you invest in a sturdier chain that will work well with your designs.
How to choose the right necklace length?
And that just about sums up the different types of necklace chains! Make sure you double check the length you require with our handy necklace chain lengths guide. This will help you get to know the amount of chain you’ll need to order to finish off your piece. Print it off and pop it on the wall in your workshop. You’ll be creating a multitude of different types of chain necklaces for your customers in no time.
Determining the length of your necklace depends on how you’d like it to hang – whether you’re creating chokers, traditional princess-style necklaces, or longer pieces that sit on the bust. Here’s a guide to help you measure and cut the amount you need for your chosen type of necklace:
- Choker Length: 13 – 15 inches
- Collar Length: 16 – 17 inches
- Princess Length: 17 – 19 inches
- Matinee Length: 20 – 24 inches
- Opera Length: 28 – 37 inches
- Rope Length: 37+ inches
Now you’ve got a better idea of the different types of necklace chains available to work with. Shop all of the jewellery chain styles we’ve talked about in our guide and much more over at Cooksongold.
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