Jewellery Making Supplies Blog

This article is written by Joanne Varney who holds a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing and is part of the Cooksongold team.

Traditionally used with dress shirts which have no buttons at the cuffs, (French cuffs), cufflinks have been used through the ages to add a decorative element to a man’s attire. Although most men won’t use them every day, nearly all will certainly own a pair of cufflinks to use on special occasions, namely weddings. Consequently the range available is huge and enormously varied in price and design.

As with most jewellery, cufflinks consist of a functional element and a purely decorative element both of which are essential for a successful piece.  A range of fittings are available, but easily the most popular and the most practical are those which have a swivelling arm which snaps into place, using a spring mechanism that stops at ninety degrees. This effectively forms the ‘stopper’ which prevents the cufflink from sliding back through the button hole and in turn this secures the cuff. The arm, which is available in a round or square section is held between a ‘u’ shaped fitting or an ‘s’shaped fitting which is the piece which is then connected to the decorative element. This can be done using solder or glue. Special care must be used when soldering near any sprung mechanism as too much heat will cause the spring to relax, effectively rendering the fitting useless. It is preferable to use medium or easy solder for this task.

If you fancy trying an alternative fitting to the swivel arm, you could opt for a simple cufflink chain. A little more traditional in style, these heavy chains (usually 5 links) provide the connecting element between the decorative plate and the ‘stopper’. The advantage  with using these chains is that you are free to add whatever style of ‘stopper’ you choose. It could be a bullet shape or a large sphere, anything really as long as it is of sufficient weight and size not to be pulled easily through the buttonhole. This way the functionality becomes integral to the design which is always good!

The last main cufflink fitting readily available is the Bar Bell design. As the name suggests, this consists of a curved bar with usually balls on both ends or one end, much like the Banana Bars used in body piercing. The scope for adding a design element to these is somewhat limited but interest can be added by using different surface finishes or by the addition of stones. A word of caution though, these fittings won’t  necessarily suit all shirt types as the ball ‘stopper’ may not be large enough to be truly secure. It’s probably best to do a little market research before using them for any commission work.

Once you have decided on the cufflink fitting, you can start work on the fun part, the decorative element. The basis of most is a shaped plate or blank which are available in a range of shapes and gauges. This is attached to the ‘u’ or ‘s’ arm, chain or bar bell and completes the cufflink. This blank should sit flush against the shirt cuff with the design facing outwards and is the part that most customers are interested in. Traditionally designs were very understated and used initials or simple enamelling but increasingly designs now reflect the individuality of the wearer and can be as quirky and witty as the imagination allows! So get creative and take advantage of this lucrative gents market by developing a cufflink range, I’m sure the results will prove very rewarding.

This article is written by Joanne Varney who holds a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing and is part of the Cooksongold team.

As with every large product group, there is usually a percentage which remains unchanged from year to year and forms the main stay of the range. This is known as the core range. Findings and stones are no exception to this and you will find many items remain unchanged from catalogue to catalogue. They become classics that you come to rely on as a jewellery maker, and know you will go back to time and again.

However, it is always fun to try something new and a good way to do this is to tap into some of the jewellery trends of the moment. If you know what to buy, your new purchases will become less of a gamble with customers, many of whom will already be aware of what is ‘on trend’.

 You don’t have to become a diehard fashionista to achieve this, instead simply arm yourself with a few relatively basic pieces of information based around themes, forms and colour. There are many complex factors that dictate global trends from economic to environmental issues and to understand them fully is not necessary for our purposes.

 Instead concentrate on the more tangible pieces of information for example: The Guild of Jewellery Designers has a review of Trends Autumn/Winter 2011 available to view on their website (http://bit.ly/oqu1PH) . In it they describe five themes they are tipping and within those themes are indications of larger scale pieces, layering/stacking and a move away from precious metals due to costs.

This could be interpreted in a number of ways, here is just one:

• Pendants can be hung on leather cord, coloured silks or rubber. Offer a choice with each sale or better still, sell each item with a selection of options e.g. Silver chain, neutral leather cord and vibrant coloured silk. This will allow your customer to layer, but also partake in a degree of customisation which has been a massive trend for many years now. Many of the major chain stores offer sets or groups of jewellery for sale now which has been extremely successful as they represent great value for money.  Even as designer/jewellers we all need to be aware that now more than ever people want value for money.
• Scale can be tricky to overcome without incurring significant cost. One way to achieve this is to use ‘found’ or recycled objects collected from charity shops or flea markets. Another is to use crystals or beads to create bold statement pieces. Swarovski produce a fabulous range of stunning pendants and beads in a myriad of colours, many of which are quite large. They too are a great reference point for trend information as they produce what they call ‘Gem Visions’ trend predictions each year (http://bit.ly/qUrtHF). This is a great resource for colour information.  Published in June of this year ‘Gem Visions 2012’ amongst other things is highlighting neutral tones, black and white and earth tones of orange and red to be big next year.  Get your ranges ‘on trend’ by incorporating some Fire Opal, Topaz or Light Siam Beads or why not try one of the Designer Edition ‘Devoted to You’ Astral Pink Heart pendants which ticks a multitude of trend boxes!

As you can see, being trend aware within jewellery and components doesn’t have to be complicated. Simply taking some time to do some internet research can have extremely beneficial results. Your customers will be impressed if you can reference your jewellery to a particular trend of the moment and it also means that your range will be regularly refreshed which keeps things interesting.

Nothing says ‘Glamour’ like a pair of drop earring.  Unlike their safer, more sensible counterpart, the stud, long drops are made to be noticed! If the fashion press are to be believed, drop earrings, specifically the ‘chandelier’ style, go in and out of fashion on a regular basis. What can be more elegant than a pair of linear drop earrings? They go with most outfits and flatter all women as they add length to the neck. Note: by linear I mean a single vertical drop, usually straight, but sometimes curved. You will also find that by displaying pairs of drop earrings within your range, you add height and interest which will entice your customer. You always need more flamboyant items to capture people’s attention. This will help you start the conversation around the jewellery which, more often than not, will then convert into a sale.

As with a stud, to get a drop earring fully functional and comfortable there are a few crucial points that need to be considered.

1. First and foremost the weight: many people are put off by large drop earrings because they think they will be uncomfortable. However it’s all a question of balance. Try to consider your choice of materials. Use thinner gauges of metal, hollow beads and tube instead of wire; and don’t always assume you have to use a hook fitting. It can often be far more appropriate to use a stud fitting which will ultimately provide more support for the ear, provided you use an adequate scroll (see Focus on earrings Part 1). A Bead and Ring pin (French Fitting) is a great option: a classic ball stud with a simple open loop underneath allowing you to simply add your earring design. Just remember to consider the position of your loop or jump ring to ensure the design is front facing.

2. If you are using crystals in your designs try using a Crystal Stud Fitting. It’s always more aesthetically pleasing if you can carry the  design element through into your earring fittings, it creates a far nicer end result and sets a handmade item apart from a mass produced one.

To create a completely “handmade” earring, you can make both the design and the fitting yourself.  Hook fittings are extremely easy to make:

• Select your wire, usually 0.8mm as standard;
• Anneal to ensure flexibility: it is best  to carry this out in a darkened room. Annealing is the gentle heating of metal to alter the cell structure, creating more flexibility. Silver should be very gently heated using a torch. Keep the torch moving constantly until the metal becomes a dull, cherry red. Maintain this colour for approximatively 30 seconds. DO NOT OVERHEAT.  Gently cool on a metal plate;
• You can either heat the end of the wire to create a ball, or simply flatten with a file to create a good solder surface;
• Using round nosed pliers at the tip, gently bend the wire back on itself to create a tight loop;
• Using the same pliers at their widest point, bend the wire back the opposite way to create the main sweep of the fitting;
• Simply cut the wire to the required length, round off to a smooth end and straighten and twist to create a nice finish using flat pliers. Note, twisting helps to compact the cell structure of the metal which effectively gently hardens the fitting. Where the annealing process relaxes the metal structure allowing more movement, twisting, bending and flattening compacts that structure allowing less movement;
• Once attached to your design, solder the small loop closed to create a safe strong fitting.

If you don’t fancy making your own fittings or you don’t have the time, you can always buy one from the trade that will complement your style. You can always try simple fittings such as Hook Wire with Bead and Loop or Extra Large Safety Wire. Both of these styles are well finished and have a designer look about them.

3. One final tip: an essential element to jewellery making is wear ability. Never forget that however beautiful your jewellery is, its purpose is to be worn. Metal can be extremely sharp and if a sharp object is swinging around in your ear, you will soon have the tell tale scratches to highlight any bad workmanship. To ensure this never happens, whenever you finish a piece,  just take a few moments to hold the item in your hands. Close your eyes and run your fingers over the jewellery to check for any rough or sharp edges. You’ll be surprised at what might be revealed. You may feel a bit silly, but it may prevent any embarrassing returns from your customers!

Earrings, (essentially for pierced ears) make up the second biggest product area on the high street, narrowly beaten only by stone set rings. It is a vital area to be in, if you are considering selling your jewellery commercially as they sell extremely easily. They make great presents as there is no sizing to consider, but they are also a fantastic self purchase for women, most of whom wear earrings every day. Get your pricing right and you will find that earrings quickly start to constitute the ‘bread and butter’ of your range, generating regular revenue that will allow you to indulge in making more elaborate pieces.

Generally speaking, studs far out sell drop earrings. They are a practical, everyday option that are easy to wear as long as the scale is kept small. Virtually any design can be quickly transformed into a stud earring, but whilst the aesthetics are limitless, there are a few practical points to remember to ensure your earrings are fully functional and wearable:

1. Firstly the weight of the earring needs to be considered. You want the design to sit flat against the lobe of the ear so the scroll that you use needs to be of sufficient size and strength to support it. (Cookson  offer a wide range of scrolls from extra light to extra large suitable for most styles of stud). Try to ensure the size of your design is balanced by the size of the scroll.
2. It is also worth considering using plastic backs as an alternative or additional option for your customer.  Plastic backs with base metal offer great support for a heavy earring. You can find them here and here.  They are also a more cost-effective solution if you are find price to be an issue. Customers with any allergies can also use these backs as they contain surgical grade metal. Alternatively, if you are concerned about putting a base metal finding on a silver earring, you can find a silver version here. But note that if you are designing jewellery for children, plastic backs are a must from a health and safety point of view. You might find these plastic ear backs more suitable.
3. The positioning of the earring pin or post on a design is a key consideration. If the design is small enough I would always ensure the post is kept central which in turn keeps the earring in the right place on the ear. Your clients will not want to be worrying about repositioning jewellery throughout the day.  A larger design might require a post positioned more towards the top, allowing the piece to hang down slightly. On average, posts tend to be 0.8mm – 1mm diameter and come in a range of lengths. You might find the shorter lengths easier to solder. It is crucial you check what size hole your scrolls have before soldering on your posts as they are not all the same and although there is a certain degree of flexibility, you need a good grip on the post otherwise your earrings will fall out! It is worth pointing out that sometimes the larger pins (1mm) can be uncomfortable for some people to wear, so you might want to stick to the 0.8mm standard. Headed pins provide a greater surface area for a good join, but don’t look as clean as the plain version. (A good test of a solder join is to twist the soldered post firmly 180 degrees with a pair of flat pliers. This will quickly reveal a ‘dry joint’ if your solder has not run properly but will also semi harden the post after it’s been heated making it a little stronger).

You can of course make your own pins by using wire of the correct gauge. Simply smooth and round the end of the wire, file a groove approximatively 4mm from the end to locate the scroll and then cut to length. The end will need flattening to ensure a good join.

Although many of the points in here may seem obvious to people who have been making earrings for some time,  for the beginner these are basics that could easily be overlooked. Remembering a few basic guidelines will ensure your reputation with customers and have them coming back for more!

It’s that time of the year again when we (almost) say goodbye to the winter and welcome…FREE DELIVERY Bonanza online at Cooksongold!

Between the 25th of February and 28th of February at cooksongold.com claim Freepost on ALL UK orders over £50*!!

THE JEWELLERY GUIDE

We’ve just launched the 32-page Jewellery Guide for those of you who are going back to work, starting work or just looking for new pieces to buy for your workshop!!  It contains the essential products to every jewellery maker’s workshop: machinery, clay, starter kits, books, chains and bullion are amongst the many products you will find in this useful catalogue.  Our Top 20 Essentials at discounted prices -UP TO 25% OFF – will most likely catch your eye too! It’s sure you’ll find something you love or need for you next piece!!

and the best part…COOKSON TECHNICAL INFORMATION BOOKLET

What makes this guide even better is the booklet inside, which you can download here or order for FREE here (where you get the whole mini catalogue for a change). The booklet includes useful data sheets and answers frequently asked question on various techniques like soldering and polishing. It provides you with the best hints &tips you’ll want to know before starting to make an art piece.

We’ve been in the jewellery industry for quite a while and now you can benefit from Cooksongold’s resourcefulness even further by login onto http://www.cooksongold.com/technical/. Here you’ll find the jargon used in the trade explained, even more data sheets and instant conversion calculations. Our knowledge base is easily accessible: you can search specific words and you  can almost instantly view “Hot topics”, “Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions” or “Latest articles” .

If you have a question that hasn’t been answered already (or to which you simply cannot find the answer) you can always opt for “ask a question” and you’ll quickly receive a personal response!

So what do you think of it? Have you used it already? If so, is there anything else you would’ve wanted to see in it?

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UPDATE: Starting the 15th of March until the 31st of March 2011 you can try Reflections Silver Wire and Sheet for the same price as Standard Silver*. Click here to learn more about this promotion and start browsing through our fabulous range of  fire scale, tarnish- resistant silver.  Still looking for reasons? Keep reading and find out why we’re all so enthusiastic about Reflections Silver.

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Today we have launched the NEW REFLECTIONS SILVER COLLECTION!! You might have seen it on our website, but I wanted to give you some more information on this great new alloy!

We have over 100 (117 to be more precise) products including: Reflections Sheet, Reflections Wire, Reflections Finished and Loose Chain.

Here are a few reasons why I think you should try Reflections:

• It has enhanced tarnish (the discolouration of metallic surfaces)  and fire-scale (dark coloured copper oxide – forms when sterling silver is heated in the air) resistance when compared to standard silver
• It is age harden-able up to 90-110 Hv
• It can be easily processed using standard existing jewellery manufacturing processes
• It has 925 purity
• It is excellent for stamping, drawing, spinning and rolling.

However, there are several processes that you should pay attention to when working with Reflections alloy: soldering should be done in a darkened area, test first when hot enamelling and do not use for fusing (although it is possible to produce a weak fuse joint). When remelting use at least 50% fresh 50% scrap mix.

If the new collection caught your eye,you can click here to download a PDF copy of the Reflections mini catalogue or altenatively go here and order a FREE brochure! It is all free, you might as well have a look! We have also added a Reflections Technical Centre to our Knowledge Base and we hope this will answer some of your questions regarding the new collection.

Are you already thinking of your first art piece you could design with reflections? Do you need more details to convince yourself? – if so, do not hesitate to call or email us:

Telephone : 0845 100 1122 or email Birmingham.sales@cooksongold.com