Jewellery Making Supplies Blog

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NEW Jewellery Making Forum from Cooksongold

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Forming metal is an essential part of jewellery making, and as a process the level of skill involved is often overlooked.  Forming refers to any process that maneuvers metal into the desired shape or design. Unlike many other skills in jewellery making forming is more a combination of a range of techniques that change an objects shape, rather than one particular process. 

Under the heading of forming are processes such as bending, chasing, repousse, sinking, hammering, using stamps/dies and forging.  These processes will affect the pieces shape, thickness and often the texture of the metal being worked on.

Forming Tools
The range of forming tools available is as wide and varied as the different processes contained within the skill.  The key forming tools available are:

Mallets
The simple mallet allows the craftsman to apply direct force without stretching or damaging the metal.  The head of the mallet is softer that the metal so not to mark the surface.

Mandrels or Triblets
Mandrels or Triblets are used for forming shapes, and are most associated with rings or bangles.  Mandrels are available in a variety size and shapes, and in both steel & wood.

Hammers
Hammers can complete a variety of jobs from stretching the metal, polish/smoothing or adding texture. Jobbing hammers are ideal for general use and metal forming. The planishing hammer is used for smoothing, shaping and polishing metal.  Riveting hammers are designed with a small head for detailed rivet work. Raising, bossing and chasing hammers are used in the different stages of forming.

Doming Blocks & Punches
Doming blocks & punches are the ideal way of shaping metal and making domed, shaped pieces or hollow beads. Pieces of circular metal/discs are place over the hollows of a doming block, and then using punches and a hammer the metal is formed into a shape. 

Steel Blocks
Steel blocks provide the ideal flat surface for working, flattening sheet or wire or to support work as it is raised or forged, riveted or textured.

Swage Blocks
Rather like doming blocks, Swage blocks help form metal into tubes, curves and channels.  Different blocks will allow different shapes and sizes to be formed.

Sandbag / Grit filled Cushion
These bags provided support whilst you work and form your piece. They help keep your work firm and in place whilst working.

Pliers
Pliers have a multitude of uses but they are the most basic tool for holding/gripping, forming and shaping wire.  Having a basic selection of needle nose, round nose, flat nose, half round and a pair of parallel action pliers, will give the jeweller the flexibility to complete most jobs.

Stakes
Often used by silversmiths, the metal is placed over the stakes (usually clamped independently into a vice) and hammered to achieve the shape required. Various shapes can be achieved by using different stakes.

Files
Files are essential for removing excess material, and fine tuning and shaping your piece.  The different sizes available allow the jeweller to work large areas or at a more intricate level. To start with buy a selection of shapes containing round, square, triangular, half round and warding.  Plus consider the cut ranging from 0 the coarsest, to 6 the finest.

Draw plates
Draw plates are most commonly used to reduce the size or change shape of wire. Each plate has a series of holes through which the wire is passed through, this then changes the size of the wire. The holes in the plate are of decreasing size allowing you to continue draw down the wire to the required size.

Rolling mills
These larger machines often seen in jewellers’ workshops are ideal to reduce the thickness of sheet, or help decorate sheet. If used with Square and D shape sections rolling mills can be used to form or shape wire. 

This selection of forming tools & equipment allow jewellers, and metalsmiths to create any number of shapes, textures and patterns.  As with all jewellery projects the range of forming tools jewellers have will start with the basic i.e. pliers, hammer and perhaps a doming set, and then expand as their projects demand.

Forming Tools

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This weekend only Cooksongold.com are offering an incredible 50% off starter bench packs. The bench pack contains 11 quality jewellery tools at an amazing price of ONLY £23.08 this weekend only - WHILE STOCKS LAST!

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Silver, a precious metal valued for its beauty and white lustre, is experiencing a transformation the like of which has not been seen in thousands of years, thanks to a British discovery called Argentium Silver. This precious metal sets a new standard in purity, strength and tarnish resistance of silver for use in jewellery, watches and silverware.

Argentium is harder than traditional sterling silver, meaning more durable silver jewellery and silverware. It is more versatile and its strength enables new designs and innovation that was not practicable with traditional sterling silver. Argentium has a rich, natural lustre which is always evident and it is not disfigured by tarnish. This tarnish resistantance means less polishing and maintenance for consumers.

The Magic Ingredient – ‘Germanium’Argentium Silver contains Germanium which gives it its unique qualities; it is purer, whiter, stronger, harder and more versatile than traditional silver and is highly tarnish resistant. Argentium Silver was discovered in 1991 by Peter Johns, the renowned Master Silversmith, at Middlesex University.

 Argentium Silver is available to jewellers in a verity of forms including sheet, wire (round, D Shape, Square and Rectangular), grain and a range of findings including beads, clasps, bolt rings, scrolls and jump rings.

To view our range of Argentium Silver online visit:

http://www.cooksongold.com/Argentium-Silver/

To receive a free copy of our latest Silver mini catalogue featuring Argentium Silver visit:

http://www.cooksongold.com/home/celebratesilver.jsp

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We’re very happy to be sponsor’s of 2009’s British Silver Week, and just as pleased to bring your our newest Silver Mini Catalogue! So dive in, and celebrate silver with Cookson!

British Silver Week
British Silver Week makes a welcome return this June with a typically impressive programme of events celebrating silversmithing in all its forms, supported by a glittering array of leading industry names and new, cutting edge work by the UK’s best young silversmiths. Cookson Precious Metals are immensely proud to once more be the Corporate Sponsors for this important series of events. Click here to read more about the British Silver Week.

NEW Argentium Silver
This issue sees the launch of an exciting new Cookson exclusive. Argentium Silver might just be a revolution in silver – the most tarnish resistent, versatile and brightest silver product ever. Click here to find out more about this revolutionary new alloy. Alternatively, click here to view our entire NEW range of Argentium Silver products including sheet, wire, grain and findings. 

NEW Sterling Silver Findings
We are constantly adding NEW findings to our range on the basis that you can never have too many. As well as our NEW range of Argentium silver findings, check out our NEW textured silver beads from UNDER £1 each, as well as our NEW silver clasps and ear fittings. Also, receive a FREE sticky bead mat when you spend over £35 on silver findings.

FREE Silver Catalogue

Cooksongold.com is offering FREE delivery on all orders this bank holiday weekend!

Simply enter E-Voucher code ACP77 as you check out to claim freepost*

Free delivery is valid between Friday 22 May – Monday 25 May, ENDS MIDNIGHT!

Freepost this Bank holiday Weekend on www.cooksongold.com

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STOP PRESS – We’ve just dropped the price of ALL our rolling mills, and to co-inside with this new offer we thought…
 

Rolling Mills – Basic Concepts

Rolling mills are one of the more common jeweller’s tools seen in small and medium sized workshops. In essence the rolling mill is a simple machine that shares many traits with a mangle. The traditional jewellers rolling mill will have steel rollers, so that when metal is passed between them it become compressed, changing the gauge or even shape of the piece. For example changing a circle into an oval shape.  

As a rough guide when halving the thickness of sheet you will double the length (if rolling in one direction). Rolling should be a gradual process, and the resulting compression of the metal will mean that the metal will work harden. Therefore in between each stage of rolling, the metal will need to be annealed.

In addition to rolling sheet many of today’s mills have the ability to roll wires into square or D shape sections – ideal for creating a tapered or shaped effect.

Smaller rolling mills are the most practical for the small or home workshop with one pair of rollers. Larger and automatic mills are available for the larger workshop, but with all mills they must be secured to a firm and steady surface – and many manufacturers recommend a dedicated stand bolted to the floor.

Rolling Sheet

First ensure your sheet is prepared for rolling i.e. it’s has been annealed, and cleaned, and importantly dried. Then adjust the width of the rollers, many machines have a dial gauge to aid precise rolling gap measurement. As a physical test try pushing the sheet between the rollers. If the sheet passes through, the rollers should be adjusted until it will not pass between them.

Once the rollers are in the correct position the mill is ready to roll down the metal. The sheet should be supported in one hand, whilst the other turns the handle, thus drawing the sheet through the rollers.  The sheet should be caught as it comes through, and thickness checked using a vernier/calliper.  Then re-roll to achieve the required thickness.

Rolling Silver circles to create Ovals

To create an oval take a silver disc, set the rollers as you would for rolling sheet, and then feed the disc through. Once the disc has been through the mill, check the thickness and length of the piece using a vernier/calliper, and repeat the process as necessary. When feeding the oval through the mill again, ensure that it is fed through the rollers in the same direction to ensure it elongates the oval.

Shaping Wire

Using a rolling mill with square grooves allows jewellers to shape (often into a square shape) and taper round wires. Before starting the process the wire must be annealed, pickled and cleaned and dried thoroughly. The wire is then pushed between the square grooves and the handled turned so the wire is drawn into the grooved section of the rollers. This then shapes the wire. To ensure the required shape is achieved turn the wire each time by 90 degrees.

Formed D Shape wire

Rolling mills with D shape channels allow D shape wire to be formed, and follow similar principals as shaping. The wire is fed through the D shape section rollers and once the wire has passed through check the thickness. If it is not of the required thickness repeat the process.

Best practice when using rolling mills

When using a rolling mill consider the following best practice hints & tips:

•           Always use dry metal – any dampness will leave marks on the rollers
             – and risking pitting.

•           Roll metal gradually, as too much pressure may result in the piece�
            cracking when next annealing.

•           Keep your mill well maintained and oiled.

•           Remove any marks on the rollers. Clean with a damp cloth and�
            acetone to remove dirt. For more stubborn marks carefully remove
            with fine wet and dry paper and fine steel wool.

•           Keep the mill covered when not in use, to protect the rollers
            from workshop debris.

Click here to view our range of rolling mills

Rolling Mills are one of the more expensive jeweller’s tools, and although simple in nature the mill can be put to many uses. When buying a mill, like many tools you should buy the best mill you can afford, with the better mills being more robust and having heavier and stronger rollers.

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Every good jeweller’s workshop needs a quality supply of findings… and with many sensational new lines, and up to 50% off our most popular findings, you won’t find more choice or better value than Cooksongold.com.

We’ve got lots of other new products to tempt you with; a fabulous selection of glass beads and stringing supplies, silver chain, silver beads and spacers, display materials and a series of price offers for workshop essentials. What’s more, spend over £100 and you will automatically be entered into our Win a Workshop competition!

If you would like to receive a FREE copy of our NEW Workshop Materials mini catalogue click here. Alternatively, click here to view these new product online via the website.

Click here for your FREE copy

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Making jewellery doesn’t require a large space or big pieces of equipment or even furniture. A selection of key workshop pieces combined with basic hand tools provides everything for the first workshop. Cooksongold.com provides a full range of jewellery tools - everything from basic hand tools, pre-packed tool kits, consumables, larger machinery right through to the professional jewellers bench.

Your first workshop
Often the beginner or student will start making jewellery on ‘normal’ desk, worktop or even kitchen table!  Adapting the table can be easily be achieved by clamping a G clamp bench vice or anvil.  The jewellers peg/pin can then be held in place securely giving a simple, yet sturdy place to work.

Work Benches - Click here

The peg is perhaps the most vital part of any setup allowing the jeweller to work quickly and efficiently. This wedge or triangle of wood supports the piece, holding it in a notch or v shape insert. This holds the piece rigid, allowing the jeweller to saw, cut, & file. 

If adapting an existing desk, the desk should be elevated, so that the working area is at mid chest level when the jeweller is sat upright, thus allowing maximum control of your tools and metals.

Let there be light and ventilation

Although normal desks can be adapted, two factors must be in place when setting up your ‘bench’ – light and ventilation. The work area needs to well ventilated to ensure a safe working environment combined with good bright and direct lighting. Natural light can be complemented by adjustable lamps ensuring that no shadow falls over your piece from the jeweller or the equipment.

Workshop lighting - Click here

The professional jeweller’s bench

The traditional jeweller’s bench is a purposed designed and provides the perfect working area for any project. Often mistakenly seen as expensive luxury, a good bench will last you a lifetime and most importantly will help in improving your technique. Benches are higher than a normal desk (mid chest level if the jeweller is sitting uptight) ensuring that the jeweller does not stoop to work. Most benches have the semi circle cut out ensuring that you can sit close to the to the work, and with the aid of a bench skin collects scrap and protect the jeweller from hot or sharp objects.

Organising jewellery tools  

Keeping a workshop tidy, and the tools organised will help the jeweller when working, creating an efficient working environment. Both tools & materials should ideally be kept close to the bench, with the aim of trying to keep all materials within arms reach. Practically many of the basic jewellers tools will be actually left on the bench – Pliers, files, cutters, tweezers are used so often that they can be left on the work top for immediate access. 

As a large part of jewellery making involves heat often a section of the bench will be dedicated to the equipment needed for soldering. Often the soldering area will be based around the placement of a torch, with the soldering block placed alongside a borax cone and dish.

For other materials such as jewellery findings, settings, and metal, storage containers should be used. These ideally have sliding draws to allow you to split different carats, sizes or types of findings.

Storage - Click here

Once the workshop is established all that remains to be added is the essential basic selection of popular jewellery tools such as files, saw & saw blades, emery & polishing sticks, pliers, cutters, verneirs along with forming tools and heating/soldering equipment.

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