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Thread: Work Bench

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    470

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    If I understand you to mean that this sort of ring stick might accommodate D-shaped rings (sort of), the readings will still not correspond to round ring sizers. For that you would need D-shaped sizers and there is no such thing unless you make some yourself. Dennis.
    You are of course absolutely right Dennis, and I'm sure that there's a mathematical formula that would have helped me somewhere but I wasn't quite able to figure that out. What the £5 grooved stick has helped me do is figure out the correct size D shaped ring for a friend who wanted one. Obviously I could use a ring sizer for her finger, but I couldn't figure out the size difference created by the D shape until I got the grooved stick. I've probably gone the long way around sorting out a simple maths problem, but I was happy to spend the £5.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,851

    Default The memory game.

    Well there is no formula that I know of and there are many variants of the D. So what I rely on is remembering how the normal sizer feels on a knuckle of one of my hands. Then make the D to feel the same.

    My notes will say for example: tight (or snug) on the first knuckle of my L. index finger. You can make a shank in copper first, to generate less waste and using this method even try it on the recipient.

    You get quite good at it with very little practice, but the memo is only valid for that day, because your own fingers might be different tomorrow.

    In recent years I also have made the shanks adjustable, so that they can be fine tuned by a little squeeze on the loops with pliers to tighten, or a push up a ring stick to loosen. Dennis.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Adjustable Ring..jpg   Rs5 Adjustable Ring  Shank.jpg  

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    470

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    Yes, I really like your adjustable ring shank, much more attractive than the usual open ended adjustable shank that can pinch.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    76

    Default Mandrel vv sizer

    Quote Originally Posted by misspond View Post
    Well, even if you had a steel mandrel with sizes on you still can't use it for hammering your ring true because you get marks on the inside of the ring from the sizes on the mandrel. So you'd still need a plain one. If you look on the bright side you've now got a mandrel you can check sizes on AND you can make rings with a C shaped shank and a flat backplate rather than always having a fully o shaped ring! In fact I recently picked up one like yours to do exactly that. You do realise that what you've actually started is a minor tool addiction?
    I’ve puzzled over this and have seen YouTubes where a mandrel with sizes on has been used to shape rings. I very nearly bought yet another mandrel but now slide the individual ring size down the plain mandrel and mark either side with a pencil. It’s just about visible to work with. I’m sure that is what many do but I’m interested to hear of other methods. Ian.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,851

    Default

    Yes, a mandrel with sizes can be use to slide rings for marking where to cut, but best not to hammer on them.
    If you wish to mark steel, you can use a fine waterproof open, which is more visible and easily comes off with alcohol (vodka or meths). Dennis.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    Well there is no formula that I know of and there are many variants of the D. So what I rely on is remembering how the normal sizer feels on a knuckle of one of my hands. Then make the D to feel the same.

    My notes will say for example: tight (or snug) on the first knuckle of my L. index finger. You can make a shank in copper first, to generate less waste and using this method even try it on the recipient.

    You get quite good at it with very little practice, but the memo is only valid for that day, because your own fingers might be different tomorrow.

    In recent years I also have made the shanks adjustable, so that they can be fine tuned by a little squeeze on the loops with pliers to tighten, or a push up a ring stick to loosen. Dennis.
    The ring looks stunning Denis and I love the idea of adjustable shanks. When I gained a bit more experience, I’ll definitely give it a try. It’s too complicated for me at this stage.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by misspond View Post
    Well, even if you had a steel mandrel with sizes on you still can't use it for hammering your ring true because you get marks on the inside of the ring from the sizes on the mandrel. So you'd still need a plain one. If you look on the bright side you've now got a mandrel you can check sizes on AND you can make rings with a C shaped shank and a flat backplate rather than always having a fully o shaped ring! In fact I recently picked up one like yours to do exactly that. You do realise that what you've actually started is a minor tool addiction?
    Thanks Misspond, for saving me buying the wrong tool yet again!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ianfs View Post
    I’ve puzzled over this and have seen YouTubes where a mandrel with sizes on has been used to shape rings. I very nearly bought yet another mandrel but now slide the individual ring size down the plain mandrel and mark either side with a pencil. It’s just about visible to work with. I’m sure that is what many do but I’m interested to hear of other methods. Ian.
    That’s how I got confused!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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