Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Advice again, please - soldering/design?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    147

    Default Advice again, please - soldering/design?

    Hi,

    I just made this piece, possibly didn't think it through that well. It's not quite finished, but enough to see the issue. I needed to leave more of a margin for the beak as has gone even thinner (as they are in reality) but a little too thin for practicality.

    I overheated the metal, because I only have a hand held blow torch and it struggles to reach and even temperature all over for bigger pieces (it's only about 2 inches long though and have done longer pieces so wondering if it is more to do with the pieces not being matched in size). The first solder attempt only the beak soldered to the flower. The second, only one side of the rings would the solder flow, on the third attempt I managed to get it all to flow. I'm not entirely sure what I did differently, I think spent more time heating the bird first as think the solder may have burnt on the thinner side (first time) as it was hot before the rest, especially the stem. Is that the best way to approach getting something like this up to temperature, concentrate in the bigger piece, while heating all of it but more so on larger item? I know ideally I would have a different torch, but obviously I did something wrong as it did work the third time.

    Due to being heated a lot the beak has got rather soft, I know it is only a small point for attaching/soldering but seems strong but wondering if now the beak is going to be prone to breaking? I can't think of anything I can do without wrecking the piece to harden it up? Due to the overheating there was a lot of fire scale and during the lengthy polishing where it got rather warm, the beak bent slightly, guess it's going to be a weak point now?

    Sorry, I have been asking a lot of questions lately. I do search first but couldn't really find anything that answers this specifically.

    Thanks,

    Karen
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails PICT0442.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    2,029

    Default

    Thats a wonderful piece I really like it.
    You can burnish the back of the beak to harden it a little, it may be that it would be better if it were thicker if you do it again although without knowing the size/scale thats hard to say but if it is weak after burnishing that is your answer.
    As far as soldering goes, yes, absolutely you need to heat the bigger piece most then just touch over the smaller piece as the bigger piece starts getting hot, its all a question of just getting the feel for it really.
    If you are using solder paste you may find strip easier with flux as its a bit more forgiving in terms of the flux not burning off before flowing and also the flux helps prevent fire scale if you coat the whole piece with it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Beautiful! Love that bird!
    Nick ( and the flower)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    147

    Default

    Thank you so much I'm pleased with how it looks but just worried about it's practicality and know others would have made a better job and strive to do so myself. Burnishing, brilliant thank you, will give that a go. From the tail to the tip of the stem is just over 2 inches, obviously it's long and thin, the body of the bird is about 1cm, flower about 5/6mm. Beak is only about 1mm wide and it's 1mm thick sheet.

    I've not really done any bigger pieces that have involved joining two parts together, done some bigger bangles with stones but never had the same problem as it was heating one larger sheet of metal. Will know for next time, thanks.

    I'm afraid I do use paste, always have done - after a long time of plodding along doing it myself I have signed myself up for a little part time course, so hoping they will put me right on some of my bad habits and I'll get to learn some new things too

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    147

    Default

    Hi Nick,

    Thank you so much, you have both made my day with your kind words

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    2,029

    Default

    1mm will probably be ok, just see how it feels I guess but 1mm is quite strong.
    I use solder paste myself sometimes as some things are just easier with paste, its only that if you are having problems with the flux burning off before it melts that doesn't happen as much with strip.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    7,357

    Default

    It's a beautiful piece, but here are some things I would have done to avoid overheating the beak and jump rings.

    Melt easy solder on the back and edge where these are meant to attach, Then keeping them in close proximity, i would reflux and reheat one section at a time, until the solder re-flows. This gives a clean result and needs only the thicker parts reheating. (sweat soldering)

    I would work in a darkened area, so as to monitor when I am over-heating some thin section, or jump ring and never have the air hole completely open on the torch. Dennis.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by enigma View Post
    1mm will probably be ok, just see how it feels I guess but 1mm is quite strong.
    I use solder paste myself sometimes as some things are just easier with paste, its only that if you are having problems with the flux burning off before it melts that doesn't happen as much with strip.
    I don't think I've had it happen before, burning like that, think it was just due to my messing up with the heat. Must try strip though

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    It's a beautiful piece, but here are some things I would have done to avoid overheating the beak and jump rings.

    Melt easy solder on the back and edge where these are meant to attach, Then keeping them in close proximity, i would reflux and reheat one section at a time, until the solder re-flows. This gives a clean result and needs only the thicker parts reheating. (sweat soldering)

    I would work in a darkened area, so as to monitor when I am over-heating some thin section, or jump ring and never have the air hole completely open on the torch. Dennis.
    Thank you Dennis. I didn't use easy solder, will remember that for fine work like that. I did do as you suggest with the solder on the area where the beak was to be attached, let that flow first then placed the pieces together and reheated - but not the jump rings, not entirely sure why now I think about it. That's probably why the beak was the one to attach on the first attempt! I didn't know when soldering that way you could heat one section at a time, really helpful.

    I think my lighting was definitely too bright for the job.

    I think you have replied to every one of the questions I've asked on here, with some really helpful advice. Thank you.

    Karen

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    West Berkshire
    Posts
    575

    Default

    Beautiful piece - I agree with everything said the only extra suggestion would have been to drill a small hole into the flower and get the beak into it, then solder. This would make a slightly stronger union IMO.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •