Cutting small shapes, i cant saw ☹️

[Dennis]

I Believe James Miller often marks out work to be pierced with a scorper. But then he learned hand engraving from his grandfather.
If I tried that, it would be an unholy mess.

So I just print my designs and stick them on with Pritt. For large areas they can be made proof against rubbing by spraying with artists pastel fixative. For curved surfaces I moisten the paper first.

For lettering and lines, I cut through with a craft blade. which scores the metal as final guide, when the label is soaked off. Dennis.

[Goldsmith]

Just wondering if anybody uses any sort of guide to help saw in the right direction? I read on a description for a piece that I saw on someones website that they carefully marked their outline with a graver before sawing. I can think of 2 benefits to this 1) having a very clear outline to follow and 2) the metal will be marginally thinner to saw through if you've already shaved a bit out.
Would there be any other benefit to this approach or is it mainly a good visual aid to following your intended line?

As Dennis said, I prefer to engrave my patterns before piercing, I find that I can cut neater edges when cutting up to the engraved lines and another benefit is that you can rub the surface clean with Emory cloth when piercing, without loosing the design. If you have the time then learning to engrave lines is a useful skill to acquire. I learnt when I was an apprentice as Dennis said I was taught by my grandfather who was a professional engraver and luckily his workshop was just round the corner to where I was an apprentice, it takes a bit of time and practice but I found it well worthwhile through the rest of my career.

James

[eekoh]

Thanks all, I've used a template drawn on masking tape and for the current project I've been using a sharpie pen - I did try scoring the design with a sharp bradawl but I found the line wasn't distinct enough to see as soon it got a few saw filings on it. I could do with a finer pen to be neater, but the shapes I'm working on at the moment are curvy little leaves and it doesn't matter if they're not exact as its the organic shape i'm after and having each leaf slightly different adds character anyway.

I do want to get some graving tools as that will open up some new features for my designs but I've got lots to be getting on with already!

[enigma]

You can also print out directly from a laser jet printer , press the print onto the metal and wipe over the back with acetone to transfer the image.
Remember to reverse the image on the printer if necessary.

[Sheen]

Hi Hazel, try getting hold of some sharpie ultra fine point pens. They're are much better for marking than the standard ones. Like this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00...=A4DCBQN2H7964

I use thin white plastic from the art shop (used by stencillers) to make templates which I then draw round onto the metal. They have the advantage of being reuseable. The printed paper option is probably better but i have no printer.

[misspond]

There are all sorts of ways to transfer a design to metal for piercing but really and truly the only way to get good at piercing designs is to relax and practise. This is advice that I give myself a lot because I am utterly dreadful at piercing, mostly because I can't relax when I'm doing it. But that's what scrap pots are for, all of the learning curves.

[enigma]

Very true.
Although as far as the OP goes I suspect Mandy may be using too coarse a blade as mentioned a while back in the thread.

[eekoh]

I found this handy chart online from one the US suppliers for choosing the right size saw blade and I've got a copy pinned up next to my workbench, though I had to find another conversion chart to get the gauge size in mm.
http://www.firemountaingems.com/reso...ia/charts/771x

[misspond]

Very true.
Although as far as the OP goes I suspect Mandy may be using too coarse a blade as mentioned a while back in the thread.

It's also something I'd do well to remember myself.

[enigma]

Hazel, I can't remember whether it was this thread or another one but we had a conversation about blade size and the consensus was to use a 6/0 or 4/0 even with thicker metal.
I use a 4/0 even for 3mm thick silver because I am doing fine lines, although I suppose if its just a straight cut thats going to be filed it doesn't matter but you will still get more drag on a thicker saw blade which seemed to be Mandys issue.