Sandwich riveting

[Sheen]

I have two copper discs which I predrilled, one set of holes drilled through the top disc of holes so they are in perfect alignment. Between the two discs is a bead. When I come to rivet them, as I'm hammering, my rivets start to slant. What am I doing wrong. See photo, the rivet in the middle is going off to one side.

[Dennis]

I presume that you are riveting on a flat hard surface, such as a steel block, so lets examine the other variables:

You might be going too fast. A light ball pein hammer, or riveting hammer, just tapping and tapping is best. the process might take 3-4 minutes for each head.

You might be using the flat face when upsetting a rivet is best done with ball or cross pein.

As my work is generally delicate, I often resort to annealed tube rivets. The ends can be spread by wriggling a scriber in them with very little pressure. A round burr can be used to thin the end from inside so as to make it easier if needed.

If you like your rivets to have heads, a small slice can be cut from thick round wire, domed in a doming block and soldered on. Even the other end can have a tight fitting wire or tube with a head, forced in.

Below is one of my adventures with tube rivets, some of the pieces are raised on tubes to give a 3D effect Dennis.

[china]

Another reason can be if the rivets are not a very firm fit in the holes it can allow movement between the discs

[Sheen]

I think China's hit the nail on the head (so to speak) I don't think my wire rivets were tight enough. Will be buying some more drill bits. I was pleased to find that I'd done everything in your email Dennis. Out of interest how thick a wall are your tube rivets. I love using brass eyelets, but you can't get them in silver. I have no saw to cut tube but I did find an article in ganoskin (I think) about cutting tube with a scalpel which I will revisit at some point as riveting is one of my favourite things.

[Sheen]

Ps is there any jewellery technique you haven't tried yet Dennis?

[enigma]

Ps is there any jewellery technique you haven't tried yet Dennis?

Dennis is a wonderful mine of information isn't he .

You can buy a saw frame and set of blades quite cheaply Sheen, I know it all adds up but it is one of the things I would consider essentials :
http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/-Range=Saw_Frames_^_Saw_Blades/-Size=0/-Type=Saw_Frames/-Brand=0/-Font=0/&prdsearch=y&show=N

[Dennis]

Working mainly in silver I keep a selection of silver tubes. The wall thickness increreases with diameter, but roughly 0.5mm is the average. As said above, they can be thinned down to be more manageable by inserting a round burr in the ends.

If you are using copper you can also source copper tubing for modellers and hobbyists (for instance from the 4D Model Shop) and that is slightly thinner and certainly softer.

I agree that the fit is of the essance in riveting, so it might be wise to drill a hole slghtly too small and then enlarge it exactly with a broach:
http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery...set&channel=uk.

You will note that every attempt to up your game involves the acquisition of more tools. The trick is to judge whether the activity concerned is just a passing fancy, or whether you will need it in the furure. Dennis.

[Sheen]

Thanks enigma, i use tin snips at the moment but i will no doubt buy a saw when i get frustrated by my limitations. Will keep the link safe.

[Sheen]

i try to have as little equipment as possible as i do like to come up with my own ways of doing things. But i try not to be spending more time than i need to if theres a tool that can do it faster. I am definitly going to consider a set of broachs as enlarging holes evenly with a file is a bit tricky. Thanks dennis.