Cup collet? How do you make them?!

[NelClare]

Hello all,

I'm just starting to make collet settings for gemstones, just round ones so far (other shaped collet/ bezel blocks are really expensive!).

I'd really like to know how the collet in the picture attached os made. It seems to have a partially closed back but it's rounded and I have no idea how this would be achieved. Any ideas?

[Dennis]

This is not your standard setting. But if there is a stone in there, then it will be a faceted stone, set from the back.

What you see is just a dome with an undersized hole cut in it and a slightly larger tube soldered in. The stone is then pushed in from behind and held in with spurs, or a ring, or a tube within the tube.

If you are just beginning, I would learn standard bezel, tube and flush settings first, to get the idea. They are on U-tube and in books or best of all a beginners course. Dennis.

[NelClare]

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for the info. I think maybe I do need a bit more practice! I can't really picture what you mean...do you mean a dome soldered onto a tube to give it that bullet shape?

I really want to do a course, I always find courses the most helpful rather than self teaching.

Many thanks,
Helen

[Dennis]

Hi Helen,
It is possible to make an extra tall dome by working the punch around the inside. Anyhow, that's how I imagine it was done. It is also possible this was done in a bespoke doming block, not generally available.
regards, Dennis.

[NelClare]

Thanks for the drawing, I see what you mean now! The photo I attached is the bottom of the collet so the stone cullet is facing that way rather than the top of that stone. See pic...

[Dennis]

Pass.........

[enigma]

Its probably cast.

[ps_bond]

Look at Jim Miller's methods for forming egg shapes into lead blocks for a possible method.
(But yes, it probably is cast!)