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Thread: Bezel set within ring shank

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    71

    Default Bezel set within ring shank

    Hi, me again with another probably obvious question!

    A while ago I made a ring with the bezel soldered into the ring shank rather than on top of it. It's an 8 x 6 faceted stone and a thinish D shape band. It was just a practice piece for me really and it's fine but as the bezel sits flat on top of the finger it turned out smaller than planned. If I do it again would normal/best practice be to file a curve to follow the curve of the finger on the bottom of the bezel? I know you do this when soldering a bezel to the top of a wider ring shank so would it be the same principle?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,845

    Default

    Yes, by inserting the bezel into the shank, you introduce a flat portion that encroaches on the space.

    Fingers can put up with a small encroachment, but for a larger bezel, you are best to curve the base until your ring stick goes in again, or use one of your own knuckles to memorise the space and stretch accordingly.

    Now, when you curve the base of the bezel you will also need a taller one, with a jump ring inside for the stone to sit on.

    How this works is best seen if you draw a section on 1mm graph paper. You can then read off the height required. Dennis.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    71

    Default

    Thanks Dennis. I knew in my head that I probably needed to do that but when watching various tutorials on this style of ring they never seem to mention that step. The only time curving the bottom of the bezel is mentioned is when attaching a bezel to the top of a wider ring shank.

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