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Thread: Shell pendants - opinion on bails?

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  1. #1
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    Default Shell pendants - opinion on bails?

    Just had a batch back from casting and I need to add some bails to them.

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    My thinking was to use off-the-shelf bails, but I can't see quite what I want. I'd quite like them to be articulated, so I was intending to add a jump ring flat in line with the shell, threaded through a suitable chain (the largest shells are about 17g each, so the chain really can't be terribly delicate). However... Do people agree it should be articulated? It feels like it adds more to the piece, but that may just be me.

    Any recommendations on bails? They need to be reasonably substantial; thin & flimsy won't go with these (and they always end up feeling cheap). Or do I go the whole hog and just make up a master from scratch for my use and get it cast as multi-sprues?

  2. #2
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    Well, I'm sure you will get lots of conflicting answers on this Peter and I hope that what I say won't cause offence.

    I have a deep hatred of conventional bails, which I find detract from a pendant and are just a nod to convention.

    Personally I would hide whatever suspension mechanism you decide on, inside, near the top and let the natural beauty of the shells speak for itself. Dennis.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    I have a deep hatred of conventional bails, which I find detract from a pendant and are just a nod to convention.

    Personally I would hide whatever suspension mechanism you decide on, inside, near the top and let the natural beauty of the shells speak for itself. Dennis.
    Understood on both counts - I've got about 50 of these to do and they're purely commercial work, hence the interest in OTS solutions.

  4. #4
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    I cut tubes at angles so that they form a bail shape. Then I file and pinch them or make a v shape with pliers. Easy to weld, solder or laser onto a piece.

    I get what Dennis is saying, but sometimes, a bail is the compromise when your customers don't actually consider it an issue.
    Last edited by Wallace; 22-08-2017 at 01:46 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wallace View Post
    I cut tubes at angles so that they form a bale shape. Then I file and pinch them or make a v shape with pliers. Easy to weld, solder or laser onto a piece.

    I get what Dennis is saying, but sometimes, a bale is the compromise when your customers don't actually consider it an issue.
    So no articulation, just fixed?

  6. #6
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    I would go with fixed as simple as possible and let the shell speak for itself.
    I use tube bails more than anything these days because I can shape to suit or in larger pieces make them part of the design. I'm not sure customers are interested in that sort of detail, if they are interested in the piece it the piece as a whole. If they are going to nitpick about the bail then they find all sorts of other faults and aren't going to buy anyway:/

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ps_bond View Post
    So no articulation, just fixed?
    Fixed, or articulated. A little piercing, then welding back together, and tidy up with a radial wheel - takes about two - three minutes

  8. #8
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    Default Shell pendants - opinion on bails?

    Hiya,
    These look great! Must be exciting to get the final piece back. I've only just started carving wax rings ready to send a batch off, any advice?
    Last edited by Leslie Morris; 26-08-2017 at 08:07 AM.

  9. #9
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    Loads, but not always relevant... What sort of thing are you after? The finer your wax is finished, the easier casting cleanup will be, for example?
    There's some useful bits here -
    http://www.jewellerycastingscotland.com/ramblings-faq/

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leslie Morris View Post
    Hiya,
    These look great! Must be exciting to get the final piece back. I've only just started carving wax rings ready to send a batch off, any advice?
    Recognising you're quite new at the forum, hopefully I won't cause offence - I recommend you start a new thread and post some images!

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