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Thread: thinking of buying a scorper and would like some advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    14

    Default thinking of buying a scorper and would like some advice

    Hi all and Happy New Year. I’m thinking of buying a scorper to set stones, but I’ve never used one before and could do with some advice. I’m making bezel set rings using a push stick to set the stones, but they’re not coming out as neatly as I’d like. I’m getting some ragged edges and spending a crazy amount of time emery papering away tool marks. I’m sure there’s a better way to do this, so I’d really welcome your responses.

    I’ve already learned a lot from discussions on this site, e.g. that 0.4mm fine silver sheet is better than ready-made bezel strip (I haven’t tried this yet) and that bevelling the top of the bezel gives a neater edge (this has really helped). I will also try protecting the bezel from tool marks using a piece of suede, as I saw someone on here suggest.

    Ultimately, I think I need to invest in a motorised tool (I’m also finding it hard to use enough force with the push stick to close minute gaps without damaging anything, but that’s another issue), but for the moment I’m wondering if a scorper would help to create a neater edge. But it's not so straightforward: I see from Cookson’s site that I will also need an Arkansas sharpening block and a handle, and that I will need to size, mount and sharpen it myself. Would a scorper be easy to prepare and use for someone who’s never used one before? Also, there are several different types, so which one is best for setting stones in rings? Or perhaps there's some other tool I should be using.

    T.I.A.!

    Patricia

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    383

    Default

    Hi Patricia,

    Happy New Year!

    You might find this thread: http://www.cooksongold.com/forum/sho...h+pesky+bezels helpful to have a read of, it's long sorry! Where I had the same problem.

    Now I use the 'adapted file' technique, as recommended by Dennis, and get a fab finish on bezels with it. I actually find with that technique that leaving the bezel wall a bit thicker works well, cos the bezel top then tilts inward, and you can file it perfectly flat without getting tiny upstands of metal next to the stone.

    I think the professional way to do it is with a scorper mind, which would take more practice to learn (I haven't tried yet). If you wanted to do that and were discouraged by scorper preparation, have a look at the GRS quick change scorpers, which come pre-shaped and pre-sharpened, so you only have to keep em sharp. Again I haven't tried em myself but i did a bit of research and concluded that they may provide the easiest way to get a scorper up and running to try.

    Hope that helps a bit

    Faith

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    2,067

    Default

    The best way is to keep the edge neat as you push it over, this should be do-able with fine 0.4mm fine silver really.
    The problem with using a scorper to tidy the inside edge is that it will scratch most stones so if I were you I would work more on trying to keep it neat as you push it over.
    You can use the Everflex rubber burrs to tidy up any tool marks on the topside, just be careful not to touch the stone unless its a diamond or sapphire which are relatively scratch proof.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Hi Faith,

    Thanks for this. That's a really useful thread. The ring you posted looks beautiful - but I can see what you mean about the impervious wiggles - I'm having very similar issues with mine. So, basically, the idea is to adapt a half round file by rubbing the edge of it smooth. I'll give that a go. I've been doing exactly what Dennis describes in the thread - sandpapering the top of the bezel and ending up damaging the stone.

    Thank you!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    14

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    Thanks, Enigma!

    I'll look into using an Everflex burr - that's not something I've thought about. It may be that a scorper requires a bit of training and I've never been shown how to use one. Lots of room for error there. It seems to be the consensus that 0.4 mm fine silver is easier to use than the ready-made bezel wire I've been working with.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    383

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    Thanks Patricia

    Yep you get a cut 2 half round file like him: http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery...rcode-997-2808, rub the edge that will be the inside edge completely smooth, I worked through the grades of these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/201455968819?_mwBanner=1 (you use them a little bit damp, and it's boring, an in front of the TV job!), then polish the edge to super shiny, with black, then blue silicone wheels http://www.cooksongold.com/category_...silicone+wheel.

    I also use the blue and pink wheels to polish the bezel top after filing (another Dennis tip) I've not had them scratch a stone ever, but I am particularly careful with the blue to keep the wheel edge off the stone. I think they're pretty similar to the everflex ones which I use too.

    I'd totally second Sarah's advice as well, to also keep the top edge as neat as you can. I have come to think less is more now when pushing and purnishing bezels. I used to go over and over them trying to get bumps out and actually was overworking them I think and making them more bumpy!

    Faith
    Last edited by Faith; 02-01-2017 at 10:45 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    14

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    Hi Faith,

    That's so helpful. Thank you!

    I don't have a pendant drill for the wheels, but I am planning to invest in some sort of motorised tool, I'm just not sure what sort to get - I see a lot of people discussing Foredom tools here. I need to do more research.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    2,067

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    Hi Patricia

    Yes the fine silver is MUCH easier to work with than sterling.
    You need to anneal it first as it usually comes in half hard rather than soft but once annealed its fab to work with.
    Then just make sure you get the bezel as good a fit as you can and work evenly round your diagonals as you push over a bit at a time.
    I do find it much easier to work under a microscope so I can see what the silver is doing as I work but other than that its just practise, practise, practise..... and I still have plenty to practise too, stone setting isn't easy to get really neat.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Hey Faith, what stones have you used the wheels with? Ive not used those over a stone but do have some so would be good to know what they are ok with- amethysts? garnets? presume not turquoise or opal as they are really soft?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    383

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    Hi Sarah,

    I've used them with garnet, tourmaline, moonstone, topaz and various quartzes. I am super careful with the blue tho, and don't run them over 5000 rpm when working next to a stone.

    Faith

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