Oval Cabochon thick setting and oval back help

[Susie]

Do you know how this is made? I'd really like to expand my bezel setting techniques, and I think this ring would be a great exercise.
2 problems i can see. How do i create the domed oval back? Normally i set my stones on a flat back, but i love the idea of it being domed on both sides.

My other question is, how do they create such a thick bezel that doesn't distort? Now i have some free time for a few weeks, I really want to give this a go.
Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Do i have to buy an oval doming block and punches? Sounds very expensive to me.
Over to the experts :0)

[Dennis]

Experiment with copper first Susie.

First make the bezel cup with a normal base and cut away most of the centre, so that there is just a rim to bear the stone.

The thickness of the bezel will be limited by your ability to bend it and whether you are setting by hand, or by hammer handpiece.

Then aim to make a large round dome, which can be slowly squeezed in a vice until it is the shape you want, but bigger. Solder your bezel cup into it and trim away the surplus. Dennis

[Susie]

Oh my god. I would have never have thought to do it this way. The squeezing sounds tricky to get it the right shape. Any tips? Glad to see someone else is up late Dennis!

[josef1]

Its possibly set from the back the bezel is made then the stone is placed from behind then a back is lasered in place

[Dennis]

Oh my god. I would have never have thought to do it this way. The squeezing sounds tricky to get it the right shape. Any tips? Glad to see someone else is up late Dennis!

Not too bad, because you can practice with copper and open it a little again with the sise punch you used, or one of the others. Dennis.

[Dennis]

Its possibly set from the back the bezel is made then the stone is placed from behind then a back is lasered in place

Yes you can, but for a more challenging low tech solution, you can also set from the back by using an outer bezel which is rubbed over underneath. Dennis.

[Dennis]

Josef's comment has nudged me into thinking up this method of getting the Easter egg shape:

First make a shallow oval bezel cup to hold the stone, but not set it.
Solder it into the lower oval dome.
Add an upper oval dome as a cover, with a hole to expose the stone and trap it in place. Give it a vertical surround which overlaps the lower dome (made of soft thin bezel strip, say 0.3mm x1.5 mm fine silver).

This outer bezel can then be rubbed over the lower dome to cold connect them. You might have to make a number of V shaped cuts to allow this, but done neatly they could end up almost invisible. Dennis

[Goldsmith]

Susie, I am a bit confused as to what you want to achieve, you say that you want a domed back to the setting, is this correct or do you mean a curved back that fits the finger?

Like this one;

James

[Susie]

Hi James. It's a domed back to the setting, which is soldered onto some round wire.
I can't find a picture of a side view, but looking on it sideways, it looks like an egg shape, soldered onto the round band.
I just didn't know how to make an oval dome, and then how to set a cabochon stone into it.
Thanks Jame

[Goldsmith]

Hi James. It's a domed back to the setting, which is soldered onto some round wire.
I can't find a picture of a side view, but looking on it sideways, it looks like an egg shape, soldered onto the round band.
I just didn't know how to make an oval dome, and then how to set a cabochon stone into it.
Thanks Jame

Susie, I would pierce an oval larger than required, then shape it by hammering it on a lead block or a piece of soft wood with a domed hammer, then when it is a suitable dome I would use a mallet and gently level the domed oval's edge on a steel block, then I would solder the bezel wire centrally inside the oval's dome before piercing off the excess edge of the domed oval, then solder this to the ring band before rough polishing and then setting the cabochon before the final polish. I hope this makes sense.

James