Finishing Pierced Pieces

[enigma]

Ah yes, that would be different I would guess, Im not sure how thick my smallest lines are, 3mm font is the smallest Ive done so far.
Burnishing the reverse sounds like a good idea, I may have to try that as I sometimes have to make 2 or 3 attempts to get a really clear transfer.

[metalsmith]

I don't think Photoshop would help my application - it's 0.3mm lines usually; they're printed at 100% black (under the printer driver too). I expect to have pin point gaps in lines like that. I burnish the back as well as allowing it to dry.

Try Goldsmith's method of poster paint and either propelling pencil 0.3mm or mapping pens.

[ps_bond]

BTDT. When I'm transferring drawings that I've created on the computer then there's no advantage in using Chinese White; I don't think I'd want to use my Rotrings directly on metal however. Also, if you're engraving, the stuff is prone to flaking while you're cutting IME; if I want to draw directly on the metal then I usually roll a bit of Plasticene on it then draw with a fine pencil before scribing. Easy to erase if it goes wrong, just wipe it away and reapply.

[Scotswummin288]

Hi Gaby, your photo is not that clear, if it is your first attempt at piercing then it is far too complicated for a beginner. I am a trade trained master goldsmith and piercing is one of my specialities. If you are interested just Google my full name of James Miller FIPG and you can see some of my past work. What I can see of your piercing shows that you are not piercing up to the marked out lines, so you are leaving a lot of metal that needs removal, which as others have said needs further piercing. Flat piercing is quite straight forward, first you need a steady bench peg, then choose the correct saw blade for the metal thickness. I am not sure how you pierce but for this type of work I hold my saw frame at right angle to my eye line and pierce across the bench peg, this means that you can see where the saw is going rather than where it has been. When you get good at piercing you only use needle files to remove any saw cuts and to sharpen up internal cut angles.

James

James,

I know I have not pierced out as much metal as I require to do. This is a work in progress because at the class I attend we have moved on quite quickly between projects, I suppose to maximise our time over the next few months. This little piece gets small amounts of work done to it every now and then. I know what you mean about keeping the blade at a right angle and eye level, but I must admit I sometimes find that difficult because I can't always see the lines on the metal clearly because of glare on my glasses! It's very annoying. I didn't intend to imply that I was at finishing stage right now, but simply enquired for future reference. Anyway, you have been very helpful and I will certainly take everything you have told me on board. Thanks a lot, it's much appreciated and I will go now and have a look at your work for technical inspiration!

Gaby

[Scotswummin288]

Hi Gaby. I do a lot of piercing work, particularly Celtic patterns and agree with Dennis about using the saw blade for the inside work. I will use a file if I can get it inside the hole but otherwise it's all done with the blade.

Anna,

I have done a lot more to my little piece now and it is really beginning to take shape. I have pierced more and filed off with the escapement file I have. What a great wee tool! It is not perfect, but I can only get better right? I initially had asked about adding detail to the piece so that the intersecting lines are clearly seen. I hope you know what I mean. I think people misunderstood thinking I meant the initial transfer of the pattern onto the silver, but that was done with a printed paper taped to the piece. What I want to do now is draw attention to the detail of the knot. Would that be done with an engraver, scriber or the like? I hope you have time to help, as a search of the internet has produced zero on the subject? Thanks, Gaby.

[Dennis]

Adding detail to a weave or knot, when you are not yet experienced with scorpers, is easily done simply with a new craft knife and a ruler.
Just be sure that you only scribe the lines that are meant to cross.
If you are prone to making mistakes, then mark them first with a waterproof pen, which can be removed with meths (or any alcohol) afterwards. If in doubt, practice on waste, or copper first. Dennis.

[Goldsmith]

Add a graver to your tool kit and practice cutting lines. I used a small copper sheet to learn how to engrave lines when I was an apprentice.
If you don't want a graver then perhaps try a scorper as scorpers are useful for many other cutting jobs.

James

[Scotswummin288]

Dennis,

Thank you. I will be extra careful re-marking the lines with my pen and marking them out with whatever tool I choose. Your help is much appreciated. Gaby.