Sole Authorship

[ps_bond]

I know I'm very guilty of being both impractical and practical at the same time in this, but I do like to do everything myself in making jewellery. This means I have to learn every technique I want to use, which takes longer and I am fully aware that I (probably) won't be as fast or as effective as someone who specialises in that technique. Stonesetting is a good example.

I've just been reading about someone who was provided with a concept (sketched, if I've understood correctly) by the customer, roughed out a sketch, sent the sketch to someone else for CAD, had the wax made up with someone else's CAM, had the casting house cast and finish it, then sent it off to a setter to set the stones. As far as I am concerned, that is not a jeweller; that's a project manager. Which is not to denigrate project management per se, but I tend to regard it as ancillary (but essential in some guise) to the core effort. Mind you, in the case of one "artist" I can think of he probably outsourced the project management too for his jewellery project...

So. I know I'm being perhaps slightly unrealistic wanting to do it all, but I'll carry on anyway. It's more important to me that it is all my own work (Oh, except the assay office bit I suppose!) than subcontracting everything.

Where's the balance for other people?

[Di Sandland]

Like you say Peter, that's project management. Or Ghost Jewelling

I think for economic reasons there are certain components that it is more effective to buy in.

In fact I had this very conversation yesterday evening with my OH. When I told him I wanted to make everything in a piece of jewellery (hence the kiln and other stuff I've purchased very recently). He asked me why to which my response was 'for my own satisfaction.' Ah, he said, and there lies the difference between an artist/technician and a business man.

As he comes from a management perspective (IT management consultant for many years) he can't see my point of view - yet I can see his.

[agent_44]

I've just been reading about someone who was provided with a concept (sketched, if I've understood correctly) by the customer, roughed out a sketch, sent the sketch to someone else for CAD, had the wax made up with someone else's CAM, had the casting house cast and finish it, then sent it off to a setter to set the stones. As far as I am concerned, that is not a jeweller; that's a project manager. Which is not to denigrate project management per se, but I tend to regard it as ancillary (but essential in some guise) to the core effort. Mind you, in the case of one "artist" I can think of he probably outsourced the project management too for his jewellery project...

I agree, seems pointless, a jewellery who desn't even set stones into a ready made setting?!

I like to have made as much as possible with a piece but as yet have not produced my own sheet or wire, but I would like to in the future, I will have the space and suitable workroom to do this when I move in a few weeks. I also wouldn't cut my own stones as I suppose most people don't, although my boyfriend has expressed an interest in Lapidary, so I am hoping I'll persuade him to start it up, which I would love!

I suppose at the moment I am bound by my skill level, though I hate the thought of using a pre made setting and things like that. The whole point of making this by hand to me is that they all have to be made by hand!

[ps_bond]

I think for economic reasons there are certain components that it is more effective to buy in.

Yup - milled product in my case. I do mill my own from time to time; but not that often. Other than that... Chain? Bog-standard clasps for the chain?

As he comes from a management perspective (IT management consultant for many years) he can't see my point of view - yet I can see his.

Hmm. I'm not a particular fan of outsourcing in that industry - the trend for outsourcing core facilities (like IT - or manufacturing) has caused more problems than it solved in the long run IME. That may well colour my judgement.

I like to have made as much as possible with a piece but as yet have not produced my own sheet or wire, but I would like to in the future, I will have the space and suitable workroom to do this when I move in a few weeks. I also wouldn't cut my own stones as I suppose most people don't, although my boyfriend has expressed an interest in Lapidary, so I am hoping I'll persuade him to start it up, which I would love!

I'm trying *very* hard not to get too interested in faceting... I know I'd just end up getting carried away with it. Still, once I retrieve my lathe from my wee brother I could perhaps make a flat lap setup, and maybe a mast head to go with it...

[Di Sandland]

Hmm. I'm not a particular fan of outsourcing in that industry - the trend for outsourcing core facilities (like IT - or manufacturing) has caused more problems than it solved in the long run IME. That may well colour my judgement.

LOL, we became very economically 'comfortable' because he had to go in and clear up what outside contractors had FUBAR'd

[ps_bond]

LOL, we became very economically 'comfortable' because he had to go in and clear up what outside contractors had FUBAR'd

Supply and demand in action!

Part of the problem seems to be that as soon as contractors run into an engineering department, a lot of the rules go out of the window - we've got very different requirements from the rest of the company and frequently very odd setups and toolsets.

[MuranoSilver]

I would say it depends on your skill set. I use whatever methods practical to get the customer the best result possible. If that means using other specialist folks to carry out aspects of my design e.g. Diamond Setting, so be it...

An Architect is not expected to build the building and so a designer shouldn't be expected to make every component from scratch. (Unless of course that is what you're selling as part of your Artists/Makers statement to the customer).

People get so hung up on this, I say make what you're comfortable with, push yourself to learn new techniques and skills but don't beat yourself up if you use a cast setting as part of a design...why re-invent the wheel!

Currently I don't
1) Cut stones (though I grind and shape my glass cabs)
2) Draw my own wire (unless absolutely needed)
3) Set Diamonds (unless I have to because the design/project calls for it)
e.g. A lot of my engagement ring clients like the "retail store" look, in which case I'm happy to outsource the setting (I made the decision long ago not to spend avoidable time doing things I don't love to do!)
They're told up front what they're getting is my time in designing the ring for them PLUS the opportunity to select the diamonds themselves. If they bring in a load of pictures cut from Goldsmiths, Leslie Davies etc then I tend to get out the mounts and shanks books. We adapt what's there.

The clients are part of the process and I offer advice as to what types of design will best suit their lifestyle (e.g a rub-over robust setting for a lady who wanted it to stand up to white water rafting, rowing and the sports she loved). For many this is exactly what they want, an option to be selecting more than just a "ring from tray 19" with a High Street comparable price tag.
(Custom without the Cost ££££ )

However if the client comes in with hand drawn images and their taste is more unusual (and in my design style) then we start talking design, waxes, prototypes etc.

Nic x

[ps_bond]

An Architect is not expected to build the building

However, the architect should have a thorough understanding of the processes and materials involved instead of fobbing off all the detail work onto the building engineers - then blaming the engineers when his design is shown to be unworkable. CF Norman Foster, Ove Arup and the Milennium Bridge.

Design is only the first part of the process that I'm interested in.

[MuranoSilver]

I'd agree that the designer would need to understand how the aspects of their design fit together and work. Otherwise the designs they do are liable to be flawed and not last the tide of time.

I think most creative jewellery folks are interested in more than just design
Personally I think their is only one true Creator of anything (whatever you choose, or not, to call Him/Her) everybody else is just shuffling molecules.

[Solunar Silver Studio]

I'd agree that the designer would need to understand how the aspects of their design fit together and work. Otherwise the designs they do are liable to be flawed and not last the tide of time.

I think most creative jewellery folks are interested in more than just design
Personally I think their is only one true Creator of anything (whatever you choose, or not, to call Him/Her) everybody else is just shuffling molecules.

Now that is a contender for the ol' business card job description....

Molecule Shuffler!!

Love it!!