Problems with white gold

[emmabc]

Wondering if anyone can help enlighten me re using white gold.

I've been asked to make a white gold engagement ring, reusing 3 diamonds. Initially I thought I may buy the setting & solder it to a ring, but the diamonds are not such a convenient size so the setting needs to be handmade. Most of my work is in silver, but I have worked with yellow, red & white but not for such a project as this. Research indicates to avoid white gold (too late now!).

Am I best to work in 18K as I'll need to have pliable prongs to push over the stones & this will be softer? I understand it is best to keep this metal away from charcoal blocks and not to quench it until it is cool. Is it really such a nightmare to deal with? Should I use 9K solder so it flows easier on 18K? Any advice would be much appreciated as I'm feeling very apprehensive.

Many thanks
Em

[enigma]

Hopefully others with more experience will be along to answer soon but from my limited experience the issue I have had is with it suddenly collapsing when soldering so you definitely need to be aware of that.
Ive only made basic ring shanks and end caps in it so far and had no issues shaping those but don't know how easy claw settings would be.

[emmabc]

Many thanks. Hadn't heard about the collapsing...

[Goldsmith]

I have never had any problems using 18ct white gold sheet and wires, any collapsing while soldering would probably be from bad casting alloys, standard 18ct soft white gold has a very high melting point of circa 1300centigrade, there are 3 solders for 18ct white, they are EWG (easy) which melts at approx 700 centigrade. MWG (medium) which melts at approx 710 centigrade, and HWG (hard) which melts at approx 860 centigrade. As you will notice all melt well below the 18ct SW gold's melting point, so don't be afraid of soldering! One thing is that you will need a decent torch, the oxy/propane torches are ideal. Finally when finished the polished item will have a stainless steel colour finish, so most white gold jewellery needs to be rhodium plated when finished, which gives the nice white colour that customers like.

Emma, may I ask what size diamonds you intend using?

James

[Dennis]

At this stage it might be useful to mention colour. Unless you research your source, 18ct white gold will be a greyish colour, more like stainless steel. The solder you use will have to match it and as James has already said, there are no reported problems with working it.

9ct white is a more silver colour with a faint yellow cast. I find it attractive and wear resistant, but the hard solder in 9ct white is close to its melting point, so it is advisable to start with medium. Dennis.

[enigma]

That would explain the problem I had- I was using 9ct white , not sure if it was a poor alloy but was bought from Cooksons as sheet.
I used hard solder though and was also using a Sievert torch so not the easiest flame to manage on what I was doing.

Don't you think Rhodium plating is a bit of a waste of time? My wedding and engagement rings are 18ct white and the plating wore off pretty quickly but I actually prefer the darker grey colour of the 18ct white tbh.
9ct white from Cooksons has a lighter colour with a yellow tinge as Dennis says, so definitely worth discussing with your customer re colours.

[emmabc]

Thank you Dennis and Sarah. I shall have to do some thinking regarding colour and/or plating.
Emma

[emmabc]

I have never had any problems using 18ct white gold sheet and wires, any collapsing while soldering would probably be from bad casting alloys, standard 18ct soft white gold has a very high melting point of circa 1300centigrade, there are 3 solders for 18ct white, they are EWG (easy) which melts at approx 700 centigrade. MWG (medium) which melts at approx 710 centigrade, and HWG (hard) which melts at approx 860 centigrade. As you will notice all melt well below the 18ct SW gold's melting point, so don't be afraid of soldering! One thing is that you will need a decent torch, the oxy/propane torches are ideal. Finally when finished the polished item will have a stainless steel colour finish, so most white gold jewellery needs to be rhodium plated when finished, which gives the nice white colour that customers like.

Emma, may I ask what size diamonds you intend using?

James

Hi James
Many thanks for your advice and glad to hear collapsing is not commonplace. I have a propane bottle with various sievert nozzles, not oxy/propane - will I get by with this set up?
The diamonds I have are one 5.57mm & two 2.5mm. I was thinking to do the smaller stones setting from 3mm square wire cut into quarters to make the four claws, the bigger, central stone basket set with 6 claws. I'm currently working on a silver prototype to see if the design works as a whole.
I hadn't realised about the rhodium plating - I guess I finish the metalwork, send it off for dipping, then set the stones once the ring is plated?
Emma

[Unhindered]

Emma I would advise that plating is done at the very end after the final polish, its a pain and will come of relatively easily if you do anything else to the ring! I have worked with white gold quite a bit, more with repairs than manufacture but as the others have said make sure you use the right solders and you will be fine

Lydia myself & my husbands wedding bands are 18ct white and I didn't bother rhodium plating in the first place, I like the natural colour! it does depend on where you get it from though, some are yellower than others! I got our gold from cooksons

[Goldsmith]

Have you seen these single settings Emma, perhaps you could buy the sizes you need here;http://www.eurofindings.com/Collets#...NumberClaws=38 the three sizes you would need would total circa £65 using these settings in 18ct white gold;http://www.eurofindings.com/Collets#...es=332&Metal=4

James