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Thread: Piercing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Default Piercing

    I've been away so long I feel SO rusty and new at everything. I've been looking at pierced designs and often see beautiful pieces done with fine lines, such as thin swirling vines or stems for flowers. I have become fairly proficient at piercing but this is one area that still eludes me. I can saw the line easily enough, however it will be too thin to be attractive. It's also too thin to fit a file into, and sawing a bit more off an edge usually leads to unevenness that can't be filed smooth.
    I am still using my first original pack of saw blades I bought with a beginner's kit from Cookson, are there wider/thicker saw blades to use for this purpose or is the only way to thicken a line is to continue to saw the line wider?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Default

    Sandra, this shows you the thickness of each blade size (click thumbnail to enlarge):

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Paul Kay; 16-09-2016 at 02:00 PM.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Oh thank you, that's great information. I believe the blades I have are 2.0.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    England
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    Default

    Sandra the blade size really relates to the thickness of metal you want to pierce, to get good piercing I find that you need to have the pattern drawn or engraved on the metal, if you are doing the modern method of sticking a printed paper design on the metal and then piercing, the quality will never be perfect. You can use a saw blade like a file to widen cuts just pierce down the line then pierce again with the blade slightly tilted and you will widen the cut. Another tip is when you want to pierce into and out of a narrow inner angled pattern, pierce ito the point from your drill hole, pull the blade back to your drillhole, then back the blade into the first cut and pierce away from the tight angle along the second uncut side. This is easier to show than explain.

    My butterfly wings were mostly 1mm. metal and I used 3.0 and 4.0 piercing saw blades for the inner cuts.

    James

  5. #5
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    Dec 2009
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    Default

    You did explain it once in the past James, but could you briefly explain again, how you transfer a detailed design to metal for piercing? Many thanks, Dennis.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    You did explain it once in the past James, but could you briefly explain again, how you transfer a detailed design to metal for piercing? Many thanks, Dennis.
    Hi Dennis, my method is quite simple and effective. first I polish the surface of the metal to a bright finish, then clean any grease off the surface, then I paint the surface with white poster paint and let it dry. I draw my design on tracing paper then sellotape it to the painted metal with a sheet of carbon copying paper between the design and the painted metal, then I draw over the design lines with a hard pencil which transfers the design onto the painted metal surface, I remove the tracing paper and carbon paper. Then I used a steel pointed scriber to draw over the pencil lines, when finished I wash off the poster paint and the design is scribed onto the polished metal surface which makes it easy to see, for simple designs I then pierce along the scribed lines, but for complicated designs like butterfly wings I usually engrave the lines lightly before piercing.

    For large patterned pieces with a repeated design like on the lampshades I made, I draw and pierce copper patterns which I then use to mark out designs with a sharp scriber before piercing.
    Like these;
    Click image for larger version. 

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    James

  7. #7
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    Thank you James. I'm starting a new project. It won't be that tricky, but with more precision than I usually need.
    It looks as if we will be advised to hoard carbon paper, as it will no doubt go out of use soon. Dennis.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Default

    No need to panic buy the carbon paper yet Dennis, it is still used extensively by graphic artists in all shades from white through grey to black and colours too.

  9. #9
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    I was also taught this method at ECA but we only went as far as transferring the design from the tracing paper onto the white poster paint which also worked quite well if the paint isn't too thick the design generally didn't come off. Our designs were not as intricate as James so it was adequate for the job in hand

  10. #10
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    Default

    Some great info here, thank you! I have tried gluing paper onto the piece, I even tried several different types of glue but came to the conclusion that it doesn't work very well. Last few things I've made were hand drawn with permanent marker but they didn't need to be very precise.

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