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[Dennis]

Re the plier technique - why round nose pliers? Faith

The knife edged rim to be turned down should only be a quarter to one third of a mm tall. I use a stroking action with the round jaw to do this, while the slightly flattened opposite jaw offers resistance. Press too low and you undermine the stone and force it out.

You will note that Paul cites his parents as having used flat pliers, so you will need to experiment to find your own best method. Dennis.

[enigma]

I always use pliers for claw settings but haven't tried them for bezels yet, I would imagine one would need to practise to get the technique right.

[Faith]

Sorry I'm confused by your description Dennis - which plier orientation are we talking about?



Faith

[Susie]

I'm learning a lot here today from this thread and want to try this out NOW.
So... To recap. I need to buy fine silver chenier, the outer diameter being 0.6 wider than the stone. So for a 4mm cab, i need to buy chenier which is 4.6mm diameter. Use a ball burr that is 4mm to cut out the seat (or a slightly smaller one?). And use round nose pliers to pinch it closed, but first by filing one of them flat. Have i got this right?

[Dennis]

Sorry I'm confused by your description Dennis - which plier orientation are we talking about? Faith

Using my pliers, I keep them horizontal as in A. I'm not sure how the flat pliers were used. Dennis.

[Dennis]

I'm learning a lot here today from this thread and want to try this out NOW.
So... To recap. I need to buy fine silver chenier, the outer diameter being 0.6 wider than the stone. So for a 4mm cab, i need to buy chenier which is 4.6mm diameter. Use a ball burr that is 4mm to cut out the seat (or a slightly smaller one?). And use round nose pliers to pinch it closed, but first by filing one of them flat. Have i got this right?

Yes, almost right.
Silver chenier only comes in sterling.

If using a ball burr only, the burr should have the same diameter as the stone, or slightly less. As ball burrs are sightly oval, leaning them on their side gives you a small increase in diameter.

The only other hitch is that tubing is never quite as described and for that matter nor are stones.
So you might wish to keep a selection of say 60.0mm lengths, so that you can actually put the stone onto the end and confirm your choice by eye. Dennis.

[Susie]

Got it!


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[Faith]

Thanks Dennis, the round plier choice makes sense now, I had been thinking to use them as in B, like a lever action square faced pusher. Get it now

Faith

[Paul Kay]

The knife edged rim to be turned down should only be a quarter to one third of a mm tall. I use a stroking action with the round jaw to do this, while the slightly flattened opposite jaw offers resistance. Press too low and you undermine the stone and force it out.

You will note that Paul cites his parents as having used flat pliers, so you will need to experiment to find your own best method. Dennis.

Dennis, I like the sound of the stroking action with the round jaw, I aim to give that a try. As for my father's method, it would be nicest to say that he had his own ways of doing things, and my mother succeeded with it enough to spend her evenings stone setting. I, on the other hand, was rarely asked to help with that particular job, though I still have the pliers he gave me for when I did.

... and like Dennis, A - horizontally, with controlled pressure, so as not to snap the jaws shut off the bezel/claws and onto the stone, the bit I was rubbish at.

[Patstone]

I tried using the square shafted bezel pusher-over, and found nine times out of ten it slipped, wondered about sticking a square of chamois on it to help stop the slipping. Then use a curved bezel pusher to tidy up.