Thanks Chris!

[enigma]

Chris gave me a tip the other day about making sure the power is down as low as possible on the hammer handpiece when setting, seems kinda obvious now but I never realised!
I just wanted to say thank you as I finally managed a thickish gold bezel ( 0.4mm and a 5mm stone) that Im really pretty happy with even at full magnification!

[Dennis]

Yes it's a very smart piece of work. Dennis.

[Faith]

That's just gorgeous looking Sarah!

How did u make the setting? Is it one of the type with a notchy ledge inside to seat the stone? And how did you make it heart shaped?

Veritable witchcraft
Faith

[enigma]

Thanks very much Dennis and Faith!
Ive really struggled with the inner edge on these in the past so it was a big relief!
I anneal the gold really well Faith then bend it partially with pliers are partially around the stone itself as the stone is sat on blu tack ( thank you Dennis for that tip some time ago!).
I don't normally make a ledge inside but rather taper the bezel very slightly to hold the stone in place.
My biggest problem has always been adjusting the setting enough to seat the stone and pushing over without ruining the inner edge as I do so-especially with garnets that mark so easily.

[Faith]

Thanks Sarah Must be challenging to keep the stone level I guess? Also from your photo it looks like you must have pushed the tinyest bit of metal over to get that look? Do you happen to have any pics of the stone in the setting before you pushed the metal in? I'd be so interested to see - I have a real inclination to make bezels too high I think, fortunately I actually like the look of them like that, but I'd love to see what yours are like pre-setting

Faith

[enigma]

Thanks Faith, yes getting the stone in level and to stay level as its set is my second biggest challenge lol
I haven't got any in progress pics Im afraid, I basically have just enough metal to push over so the table is sitting ever so slightly below the rim of the bezel all around before I start pushing it over, any shorter and it would push the stone out rather than go over.
I think all non round faceted stones are a faff to do, they are for me anyway I tend to sigh with relief if I get a cabochon to do as at least it will sit flat whilst setting.

[Gemsetterchris]

You might also want to periodically re-buff your hammer head.
They get abit scruffy overtime & the dents are transferred to the job...

[Faith]

Thanks Sarah & Maree,

I think based on all of this, I'll delay flush setting, and have a first foray into burs with a tube setting for a faceted stone. I have a 4.6mm topaz that I bought ages ago and see if Mr Dremmel will cut a seat for that.

I also read through really a lot of threads on motors today, and have largely concluded pendant (rather than micro), Foredom SR (funnily Maree I didn't pickup on your comment about having one until after!) the only thing I haven't figured out is the whole European slip versus American something else business - but I didn't have time to google it so maybe Google knows. I may however need to wait til Christmas (if only because my partner complains I never have any good gift suggestions for him) and if I didn't try with the Dremel I would never appreciate how much better it was, which just seems wrong.

Also if the Dremel explodes I'd just have to buy a Foredom :p

Thanks again,
Faith

[enigma]

Thanks Chris

Lol Faith, I killed my first Dremel in a very short time so you may not have to wait too long LOL

[Dennis]

Same rules apply to tube setting, more or less, except it is easier because you are closing thin walls.

Well the walls can be thinned by applying a bevel from outside, to create a knife edge. Again the table is almost level with the tube edges, or just a little above.

No need for a machine. You can do it by all by hand with a universal handle and a little oil on the burr. Not that anyone has ever listened to me. They are intent on mechanisation here.

Oh and you need a chenier cutting aid, either Cookson 999 596, or better still 999 597. Dennis.