Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 31

Thread: Thanks Chris!

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    2,067

    Default

    Faith, its the torque thats not enough at the low speeds so you end up having to run it too fast to get it to turn which then wears the cutting edges out really quickly.
    If you are just doing a few though it may not be a big issue, using plenty of lubricant on the burrs may help.
    Oh and also make sure you measure the girdle of each stone and each burr before burring the hole as they won't be the size stated and they need to be exactly right.
    That means either using a burr very slightly smaller than the stone or using one very slightly bigger but not pushing it all the way in to the widest point.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    29

    Default

    My dremel is multi speed with slowest 5000 rpm. Fortunately I already owned it before I started making jewellery. I found quite quickly that it was nearly impossible to cut a seat with a setting burr even on the slowest speed and drilling was similarly difficult. Either the burr bounced and skittered off the workpiece, or if I managed to use more pressure to hold it against the workpiece the burr got too hot very quickly and blunted, despite using burr-life.

    I managed better for the drilling with a Dewalt battery drill as that would go really slow, but of course so heavy it was difficult to hold both drill and workpiece .

    I say fortunately I already owned it as I have now splashed out on a foredom SR and retired the dremel back to the DIY shed. It has made a huge difference to working with burrs.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    724

    Default

    You might also want to periodically re-buff your hammer head.
    They get abit scruffy overtime & the dents are transferred to the job...

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Thanks Sarah & Maree,

    I think based on all of this, I'll delay flush setting, and have a first foray into burs with a tube setting for a faceted stone. I have a 4.6mm topaz that I bought ages ago and see if Mr Dremmel will cut a seat for that.

    I also read through really a lot of threads on motors today, and have largely concluded pendant (rather than micro), Foredom SR (funnily Maree I didn't pickup on your comment about having one until after!) the only thing I haven't figured out is the whole European slip versus American something else business - but I didn't have time to google it so maybe Google knows. I may however need to wait til Christmas (if only because my partner complains I never have any good gift suggestions for him) and if I didn't try with the Dremel I would never appreciate how much better it was, which just seems wrong.

    Also if the Dremel explodes I'd just have to buy a Foredom :p

    Thanks again,
    Faith

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    2,067

    Default

    Thanks Chris

    Lol Faith, I killed my first Dremel in a very short time so you may not have to wait too long LOL

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,845

    Default

    Same rules apply to tube setting, more or less, except it is easier because you are closing thin walls.

    Well the walls can be thinned by applying a bevel from outside, to create a knife edge. Again the table is almost level with the tube edges, or just a little above.

    No need for a machine. You can do it by all by hand with a universal handle and a little oil on the burr. Not that anyone has ever listened to me. They are intent on mechanisation here.

    Oh and you need a chenier cutting aid, either Cookson 999 596, or better still 999 597. Dennis.
    Last edited by Dennis; 09-09-2016 at 11:48 PM.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Thanks Dennis,

    I had wondered if I could do it by hand, there being so little metal to remove from a tube. I think I'll get a little extra tube and try both ways, Dremmel and by hand and the winning setting gets to avoid the scrap pot!

    For cutting the tube I've got the mitre jig - if you remember my PM in the end the dodgy one was replaced by the higher spec one (with more angles) and for no extra cost which was lovely service. It's been fab, I took to using it to make rings rather than sawing through the join and that way managed to make them perfectly to size (before I realised many don't bother and size them after!)

    Faith

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,845

    Default

    The mitre jig is also brilliant for holding the tube while making the seat. I think George mentioned it above. Dennis.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Clever little mitre jig out of interest Dennis what kind of oil do you use with burrs? I have beeswax but no 'tool related' oil just what's in the kitchen for cooking. On that basis I was gonna get some burr life unless you think regular olive oil would be fine... :s

    Ta Faith

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,845

    Default

    I would use just vegetable oil or any thin oil you have, but sparingly. Traditionally it's 3in1 oil from a hardware shop, but its only advantage is a dropper nozzle.

    If you hold your round (ball) burrs slightly askew rather than perfectly upright, you will see satisfying amounts of swarf come up, signalling that you are cutting well. Turning them by hand preserves them for longer. In a machine beware of juddering at the wrong speed. Dennis

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •