Hello

[angmc]

Hi

I'm new here so just wanted to say hello and ask for some advice.

I'm a complete novice but I'm really enjoying the silversmithing process, I've made a few rings and earrings so far but I'm finding that my torch isn't really up to the job of soldering larger pieces, actually when I say larger pieces I couldn't even get it to solder a bezel to a 1cm wide ring band but was able to do it on a smaller band. I'm using a Sistotec micro torch, max temperature 1300. I was wondering if you could advise me what torch I should upgrade to? Preferably one that's not too scary!!

Thanks

[joella]

Hi, welcome to the forum. I use a proxxon hand torch cooksons product code 999 7703. It would be fine for what you have described, mine's been great - I think any of the Creme brûlée style kitchen torches would be fine. It's only bigger stuff like cuffs etc or melting for casting etc that you need a big scary torch. I've avoided this so far as I'm a big coward, but I'm trying to summon up the courage to get one so I can do cuttlefish casting and some bigger items etc. As I say, my proxxon's been great, not so keen on the max flame (999 955b), mine's been rubbish - the flame goes very small or out altogether after a minute or so. Others will be along soon to add their advice/help.

[joella]

Have just realized your torch looks similar to what I've suggested, so perhaps you are just heating the solder rather than the whole piece? You need to heat the whole piece and when it's hot enough the solder should flow, also I think someone recently mentioned that they were trying to solder by holding the item suspended in the air with tweezers - so just in case, lay it on soldering block,you can also use more soldering blocks to make wall around it and reflect the heat. Hope this helps
Sue

[angmc]

Hi Joella

Thanks for the advice. I am using a soldering block and was trying to heat the ring band & smaller bezel at the same time but concentrating the heat on the ring and trying to avoid the solder itself until the last minute. I tried using easy & hard solder but it just wouldn't flow. As I said when I gave up on that and tried attaching the bezel to a smaller band, 5mm width, it worked eventually but took a long time!
Angela

[joella]

Hmmm, I think wiser people than me will be along soon to help out (the only other thing I can think of is that maybe its not clean enough? perhaps pickle it and have another go, after filing back any blobby bits). What flux are you using? I have only used borax cone and water, so don't know what other fluxes are like. Fortunately, there are lots of people on the forum who are way more experienced than me, and they can usually get to the bottom of problems and get people back on track. Good luck with it.
Sue

[Dennis]

You clearly know how to solder and from what you say, you mini torch is not hot enough. The solder should flow within 30-40seconds. beyond that time all you are doing is darkening your sterling with firescale.

You can get a little more heat by concentrating it in a little cave of fire bricks, or you can use two similar torches, one in each hand to double the effect. After that, I'm afraid you just need a torch with a bigger burner, or an oxygen assisted flame. Dennis.

[Faith]

Hi Angela,

From googling it I think your torch is also my torch and suspect you and Dennis are right and the torch just won't do it. I struggled a bit with a 3x2mm oval shank - it seemed to be towards the limit of the torches capability (my giant third hand setup is pretty heat sinky too)

I was wondering if you could advise me what torch I should upgrade to? Preferably one that's not too scary!!
Thanks

So I guess we're back to whether anyone has any good - not too scary - torch upgrade recommendations, which I'll be interested to read myself

Faith

[Maree Hart]

I manage to use my little torch for virtually everything, though if it's a small bezel on a large ring I wouldn't attempt to heat the bezel at all until the ring is fully up to temp (and often it doesn't need the extra heating as conduction would have got it up to temperature.

I have needed extra oomph for large bangles, and use this :

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p78079?table=no

I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, it's just I had it already. It's not subtle but it does get a lot of heat into an item quickly. I sometimes then switch back to the little torch for the final detail. I also solder with an extra board upright behind the item when using this torch as it is a beast!

One trick I've only learned recently is that if you are using tweezers to hold an item, and especially head and shank tweezers which are big heat sinks, is to warm up the tweezers quite a bit even before you start heating up the ring.

One day I'd like to move up to a Smith's little torch but probably not while I'm still working in a spare bedroom. Until then I get by.

[Dennis]

The Campingaz torch can be easily modified and made less beastly, by adding a collar around the burner from a piece of copper or brass strip about 15mm wide.

This can be turned to close off some of the air entering the vents, so that it is very soft and bushy, or moved to make the flame fiercer.

The strip is not soldered and the ends are bent out to make it easier to move. I think of it as an Ω omega shape. However it does get too hot to touch with fingers quite quickly. Dennis.

[angmc]

Thanks for all the advice. I'm thinking I might just go for the two torch option for now and build a little fire cave with soldering blocks and see how I get on with that. I don't think I'm ready for anything too powerful at the moment!