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Thread: Pesky bezels

  1. #21
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    Thanks Dennis, I'll have an experiment with binding wire perhaps (although I am considering getting some of those little titanium strips (can I use my "normal" tools to shape the titanium - ie it's not a contaminate btw?).

    fortunately I have both a discarded bezel cup (of the nice melty wire) and a slightly disappointing shank to do a practice run with first!

    Thanks
    Faith

  2. #22
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    I am probably really quite terrible but I position my ring shanks in soldering tweezers balanced on the block and then balance the bezel on top and adjust if necessary as the solder flows.
    Terribly untechnical Im afraid but I am a fan of using gravity to do the work.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faith View Post
    I am considering getting some of those little titanium strips. can I use my "normal" tools to shape the titanium - ie it's not a contaminate btw? Faith
    It's not a serious problem, as you don't use many tools. It is unlikely to clog a file, although files can be cleaned, to be sure, with a little square of copper sheet, which forms a kind of comb when you use it. Grit on the bench can be swept away and a saw blade can be discarded, as it will become blunt anyway.

    Sarah's method shows that there are many ways to skin a rabbit. People with sure hands can do that, but I need to be hands free. Dennis.

  4. #24
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    Thanks both

    I think I'll need a find a good hands free way too, I don't really have the steadiest hand!

    PS ta re the tool usage advice, I'm just about to get some copper sheet for that as I've found there's something about filing silver with the mitre jig that really clogs the file.

    Thanks again, I'll let you know how I get on!
    Faith

  5. #25
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    Jun 2014
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    Hi Faith

    Most of the time I use your method of holding the ring shank against the back of the bezel with a third hand, however, I've learned to spend LOTS of time setting it up so the shank is centered correctly. First, I mark the base of the bezel with a permanent marker (disappears with heat) in four spots on it's edge which help me locate the spot where I want the shank to sit. Then, I set the ring up on my soldering block so that I can look around it before applying heat. I am always amazed at how the shank can look true from one angle, but off centre at another angle. Ideally you want to look from the front, sides and back ... although three angles will do. Of course, you want to position yourself so you can clearly see the bezel base and ring shank ... in other words, you can't look from the top down, you need to squat down or whatever to make sure you have the right line of sight.

  6. #26
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    Thanks Stacey - in the end I couldn't get it with binding wire at all so I went for this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    With lots and lots of peering around.

    And now I have a little glum face. Of my test bezels I got another crooked one, managed to unsolder it, next attempt crooked, then somehow fuzed it to the side of the ring rather than the top while trying to get it back off again. Test bezel 2 finally ended up straight. Actual ring is straight too, but not centred

    Moreover i have a design flaw, I'm trying to make two separate stone set rings so that when worn together the stones sit diagonally to each other (bezel 1 overhangs ring 2, bezel 2 overhangs ring 1). However by filing even the tiniest flat bit on the shank, the bezel then sits lower than the height of the other shank. I need it to be the same or higher, but only very subtley. So I'm a bit stumped, and as forementioned, glum
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  
    Last edited by Faith; 03-07-2016 at 09:17 PM.

  7. #27
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    I wonder whether the height of the bezels could have been checked with callipers? I can do nothing without referring to mine.

    If you dont have them, six inch electronic ones are best and you can find bargains in places such as Proops and Maplin. Even the cheapest ones work fine, but I would avoid plastic ones for reasons of wear.

    As far as positioning the bezel on the ring is concerned, you can get close by marking crossed lines on the bezel with a ruler and a waterproof pen. This does not interfere with soldering.

    However, nothing is quite as good as finally inspecting the position the right way up. Hence my suggestion of binding wire or special clamps. Dennis.

  8. #28
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    Sorry Dennis, I didn't mean the height of the bezel wall, I mean the height of the back of the bezel as measured from the inside of the ring. I need my bezel to sit at least as high as the profile of the wire, praps a smidge higher so I can have two sort of interlocking stone set rings. Currently my bezel sits very slightly lower than the profile of the wire because I filed a tiny flat bit.

    I've seen overt ways to do it, little silver balls between the ring and the bezel for example, but I don't need much height...

    Possibly I should give up on the design, it's only for me, it just motivates me to learn by trying to make things I like!

    PS I have got calipers and will try the cross marking approach next time

    Any ideas appreciated, thanks

    Faith

  9. #29
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    Often I find that the bezel will move slightly as the solder melts hence why I like to do it the right way up and adjust as needed.
    I also find that binding wire and clamps can move as they heat although I know not everybody seems to have that problem so it may be due to the way I apply the heat.
    In any case I doubt that most of the lesser experienced among us always get it right first time whichever method we use , I know I don't.
    Just keep practising is my advice and trying different methods

  10. #30
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    Jul 2014
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    Thanks Sarah

    Re the interlocking issue I have, is it necessary to file a flat bit on the shank to solder to the bezel, or will there be enough meniscus to hold it without?

    Thankyou
    Faith

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