Another newbie saying hello and asking questions

[Susan]

Hi there,

I'm really enthusiastic about silver jewellery, my collection is extensive and I've now made the natural move into making my own, which is really exciting. I've done a couple of one day workshops and a five week evening class and that's it so far. I'm just compiling the list of equipment I want to buy next and I could do with some advice please.

One of my first project will be to stretch a ring that I made that has come up too small. My tutor has shown be how to do it but I'm not sure what weight hammer to use. I'm planning on using the flat end of a ball-peen hammer but I was confused by the different weight's available and didn't know how to choose the right one. What would you recommend?

I was also wondering whether to go for a raw-hide, plastic or wooden hammer for shaping. In the class, we used raw-hide so that's what I'm used to but I'm not really clear on the pro's and cons for each. Is it just personal preference?

Many thanks for taking the time to read and (hopefully) respond

Susan

[Goldsmith]

Hi Susan,

Welcome to the forum, as for hammer weights, you can make use of all sizes, check out this set on Amazon;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ball-Pein-H...ll+pein+hammer ,4 different weight and size hammers for only £10.50 with free delivery, you can't go wrong!

Start off with a rawhide mallet as you are used to it. Also if you don't have them already a nice pair of half round pliers is essential for making ring shanks.

Have a search of the forum section Tutorials and bench tips, it can be very useful for newbies. This was one of my old postings in that section;http://www.cooksongold.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6295

James

[Dennis]

The problem with using a hammer to stretch a ring is that in beginners hands it is not that controllable and inevitably the outer surface will be marked.
That is fine if you like a hammered texture, but otherwise it will have to be cleaned up.

An alternative is an upright ring stretcher with a lever. If you work gently and rotate the ring at every press of the lever, the ring will slowly enlarge and also become round. You still need to check the size regularly with a ring stick.

Only the inside of the ring will become slightly marked by this, but that is easy to clean up with a Scotchbrite mop, or a sandpaper drum.

Once you are used to doing this, you can routinely make all your rings slightly undersized , and then size them and round them on your stretcher.

Welcome to the forum Dennis

[Goldsmith]

Sorry Dennis but I thought Susan had asked advice on buying hammers for re sizing a ring as her tutor had shown her. I can not comment on ring stretchers as I have never owned or used one during my 55 years at the bench, looking at the photo you posted that ring stretcher would only work on even ring bands, like wedding bands. You couldn't put a ring with a setting in those sizing cups.

James

[Dennis]

Sorry Dennis but I thought Susan had asked advice on buying hammers for re sizing a ring as her tutor had shown her. I can not comment on ring stretchers as I have never owned or used one during my 55 years at the bench, looking at the photo you posted that ring stretcher would only work on even ring bands, like wedding bands. You couldn't put a ring with a setting in those sizing cups. James

Well there you are. This is why we have a forum-to give different points of view. The method outlined by me is one I use routinely to stretch my ring shanks to size once the setting has been added. Some you will see in my current album.

This was posted by me as an alternative to hammering, in order to preserve the surfaces, while stretching to size . As James has rightly commented the cups in the base can only be used to reduce simple bands, but they usually come with it. Dennis.

[Dennis]

Sorry Dennis but I thought Susan had asked advice on buying hammers for re sizing a ring as her tutor had shown her. I can not comment on ring stretchers as I have never owned or used one during my 55 years at the bench, looking at the photo you posted that ring stretcher would only work on even ring bands, like wedding bands. You couldn't put a ring with a setting in those sizing cups. James

Well there you are. This is why we have a forum-to give different points of view. The method outlined by me is one I use routinely to stretch my ring shanks to size once the setting has been added. The rings are stretched on the mandrel shaped post at the top, which is expanded by operating the lever.
Some results you will see in my current album.

This was posted by me as an alternative to hammering, in order to preserve the surfaces, while stretching to size . As James has rightly commented the cups in the base can only be used to reduce simple bands. I rarely use them, but they come with it.

However as a bonus, the base of the mandrel can be used as a small arbour press. Dennis.

[enigma]

I do love my Durston ring stretcher/reducer, one of the best tools I have bought.
As far as shaping and resizing on a mandrel I use both a rawhide and a nylon hammer, the nylon ones are smaller so target a more precise area which I find useful.
I wouldn't use any kind of metal hammer unless you are going for a textured surface though as it will certainly mark.

[Susan]

Thanks James. I've added those hammers to my wish list - my birthday is coming up and my family has been asking what I'd like - it's all jewellery making stuff this year!

I think you're right, I'll stick with the raw hide hammer as I've used it before and yes, the half round pliers on already on my list. I used them a lot in the classes.

Thanks for pointing out the tutorial and bench tip section, I hadn't found that yet. I can see myself spending a lot of time on here!

Susan

[Susan]

Thanks Dennis - I hadn't come across a ring stretcher before, I'll check it out. For my first ring, I'll use a hammer as my tutor showed me - (luckily, I really like the hammered look) but I can see the advantages of using a ring stretcher and if I carry on making rings, I think this could be very useful.

[Susan]

I do love my Durston ring stretcher/reducer, one of the best tools I have bought.
As far as shaping and resizing on a mandrel I use both a rawhide and a nylon hammer, the nylon ones are smaller so target a more precise area which I find useful.
I wouldn't use any kind of metal hammer unless you are going for a textured surface though as it will certainly mark.

Thank you - that's definitely one for me to keep in mind, depending on whether I have any skills in this area or not!! You make a good point about the nylon hammer too - that's going on the list of stuff to buy