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Thread: Really, really great UK jeweller for micropave

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Default Really, really great UK jeweller for micropave

    Hi all

    Does anyone have a recommendation for a really great UK setter. Long story short, I have a 1.22ct pear that I would like set in a Victor Canera Emilya style setting

    victorcanera.com/rings/the-emilya-halo-solitaire

    I've been to a few London setters and been told yes yes, no problem, only to see their work and find its nothing like the quality of what I've seen from US jewellers. I really like the details like the angled halo, curved struts, how neat it is generally, and I don't necessarily feel like they are "getting" that. I am aware I'm probably a total PIA customer but it's obviously important to me that I get exactly what I'm looking for.

    If anyone can help I would be eternally grateful!

  2. #2
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    Jul 2009
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    If you want that style specifically, I would suggest going to the person who does that style.
    I suspect you are conflating setting and mount making from your comments about the angled halo - once it reaches the setter they've usually not much chance of changing the style of mount.

    With the actual setting work in the picture, I'm not sure I see the issue - scalloped edges rather than anything trickier (not what I know as cut-down), tapered claws on the main stone - seems pretty standard fare, but maybe I'm missing something.

    Personally, I'd build it in CAD and have it cast rather than hand fabricating it. Especially if there are likely to be design changes along the way...
    That said, I'd have no interest in copying someone else's style.

  3. #3
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    Hi Peter

    Thank you very much for your reply. I may well be conflating terms so thank you for clarifying. If I was in the US I would absolutely be going straight to Victor Canera but I am nervous about sending a stone backwards and forwards. I wouldn't have thought that there would be an issue either - but as I said, I am yet to see any examples in London that I feel match the quality and attention to detail that I have seen from some of the US jewellers, hence asking if anyone had a recommendation.

    Hopefully I will find someone soon as I'm keen to show off my lovely stone

    Louise

  4. #4
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    OK, in traditional division of labour, a mountmaker makes the mount. The setter takes the mount and does minor modification (usually) to the existing mount - notching prongs, for example - and secures the stones.

    Are you asking for someone to make the ring from scratch & set it? I'm interested in why you feel the London ones don't match the quality you've seen from some US jewelers (ach, they're over there, may as well use their spelling) - is it the style of setting work itself you're picking up on or something else? The US style tends to be a lot more blingy as gross generalisation; setting methods vary from the very traditional through to the more modern methods taught by e.g. Jura.

    It sounds doable, I'm just trying to work out what you're actually after...

  5. #5
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    Mar 2016
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    Hi Peter

    Thanks again for taking the time to reply! I do like the "blingy" look and have definitely been influenced by spending (too much) time looking at pricescope etc. The rings that I have seen in the UK have all had too much metal showing for my taste. I like the way in the Victor Canera setting where you can actually see the rounded outline of the stones around the halo. Also, I have not seen a ring in the UK with a rounded/tubular shank. Is that more difficult to set stones in to? The closest thing I've seen has been at Harry Winston and the prices are (obviously) crazy. The ones I have seen just don't seem to be as "neat", with as much attention to detail. My dad (ironically a former bench jeweller himself) says that a lot of that can be rectified by a specialist polisher, but I am just nervous to have something made when I'm not 100% comfortable. I'm a girl and there's a lot of emotion wrapped up in these things!

    These are the things I'm specifically looking for:

    Claws/prongs: “eagle” claws, not too thin.

    Shank: set of the way around, c1.8mm wide, I would like the shank to have a rounded/tubular shape

    Halo: c25 degree downward tilt. c1.5mm wide when viewed from above, so approx. 1.7mm wide. I want the stone to sit exactly on the halo, not above (creates a dark shadow) not below (don’t want a bezel). minimal metal on the “lip”, i.e. minimal metal below the stones when viewed from the side.

    Struts/basket (the bits between the halo and the shank) : I would like them set with diamonds, and curved towards the stone not straight.
    “Donut” (the circular bit between the basket and shank): 5mm diameter, no stones

    Pave: Shallow u-cut/cut down pave

    One an unrelated note, is there any structural advantage to a cathedral setting vs. a non cathedral setting? I can't seem to get a conclusive answer.

    Louise

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    I'm also confused.

    You say you don't see the same 'quality' here but isn't what you really mean 'style'. It's about the design not the quality of the work,surely?

    You want something different to what you have seen. That doesn't make it related to quality.

    You seem to have very specific ideas on what you want (even down to measurements and degrees of angles!) so it really is just approaching jewellers who will make it for you and won't find you a total pain in the backside and a potentially insulting one at that!

    Sorry for my bluntness

  7. #7
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    Mar 2016
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    hello silverlining - no need to apologise. I felt that including measurements might help convey what I'm looking for rather than just attempting to describe it verbally in not particular technical terms. It can be hard to strike a balance between expressing what you desire as a client and leaving an experience jeweller to it. Some people are more laid back about these things, I am clearly not one of them

    Would attention to detail fall under the "quality" category? I think so. The rings that I have seen have had marginally different sized melee in the halos, variations in the appearance of the claws, areas in the basket that were not particularly neat/tidy. I know I'm a pain and I'm absolutely willing to pay for being a pain if it gets me the ring that I'm looking for.

  8. #8
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    Feb 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loulala View Post
    I know I'm a pain and I'm absolutely willing to pay for being a pain if it gets me the ring that I'm looking for.
    Sounds like you will be.
    Those type of rings aren't terribly hard wearing either, so bear that in mind.
    Last edited by Gemsetterchris; 08-03-2016 at 12:10 PM.

  9. #9
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    Hi Loulala,

    I think you have a very definite vision of what your finished piece should look like, and have a particular maker in mind, and I'd thoroughly recommend staying with that maker rather than asking anyone else to replicate their style, which will almost inevitably lead to disappointment.

    People send very valuable things across the Atlantic all the time, use the right shipping service and have adequate insurance and there shouldn't be any problem at all. Alternatively, if you're happy to pay the price for getting what you want, spend the 500, fly there yourself and be part of the design process.

    I can't be much more help than that as what you're looking for is diametrically opposed to the type of setting I like!

  10. #10
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    England
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    Hello Loulala,

    May I suggest you take a look at the companies listed here on the Goldsmith's Company trade portal;http://www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk/libra...1&subcat=11347 within the jewellery trade, the term diamond mounter is a person who makes stone set items that are mostly jewellery. I am sure that you can find someone to suit your requirements among these listings.

    James
    James Miller FIPG.
    Last edited by Goldsmith; 08-03-2016 at 03:19 PM.

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