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Thread: Really, really great UK jeweller for micropave

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    5

    Default Really, really great UK jeweller for micropave

    Hi all

    Does anyone have a recommendation for a really great UK setter. Long story short, I have a 1.22ct pear that I would like set in a Victor Canera Emilya style setting

    victorcanera.com/rings/the-emilya-halo-solitaire

    I've been to a few London setters and been told yes yes, no problem, only to see their work and find its nothing like the quality of what I've seen from US jewellers. I really like the details like the angled halo, curved struts, how neat it is generally, and I don't necessarily feel like they are "getting" that. I am aware I'm probably a total PIA customer but it's obviously important to me that I get exactly what I'm looking for.

    If anyone can help I would be eternally grateful!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    Romsey
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    If you want that style specifically, I would suggest going to the person who does that style.
    I suspect you are conflating setting and mount making from your comments about the angled halo - once it reaches the setter they've usually not much chance of changing the style of mount.

    With the actual setting work in the picture, I'm not sure I see the issue - scalloped edges rather than anything trickier (not what I know as cut-down), tapered claws on the main stone - seems pretty standard fare, but maybe I'm missing something.

    Personally, I'd build it in CAD and have it cast rather than hand fabricating it. Especially if there are likely to be design changes along the way...
    That said, I'd have no interest in copying someone else's style.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    5

    Default

    Hi Peter

    Thank you very much for your reply. I may well be conflating terms so thank you for clarifying. If I was in the US I would absolutely be going straight to Victor Canera but I am nervous about sending a stone backwards and forwards. I wouldn't have thought that there would be an issue either - but as I said, I am yet to see any examples in London that I feel match the quality and attention to detail that I have seen from some of the US jewellers, hence asking if anyone had a recommendation.

    Hopefully I will find someone soon as I'm keen to show off my lovely stone

    Louise

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    Romsey
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    OK, in traditional division of labour, a mountmaker makes the mount. The setter takes the mount and does minor modification (usually) to the existing mount - notching prongs, for example - and secures the stones.

    Are you asking for someone to make the ring from scratch & set it? I'm interested in why you feel the London ones don't match the quality you've seen from some US jewelers (ach, they're over there, may as well use their spelling) - is it the style of setting work itself you're picking up on or something else? The US style tends to be a lot more blingy as gross generalisation; setting methods vary from the very traditional through to the more modern methods taught by e.g. Jura.

    It sounds doable, I'm just trying to work out what you're actually after...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Hi Peter

    Thanks again for taking the time to reply! I do like the "blingy" look and have definitely been influenced by spending (too much) time looking at pricescope etc. The rings that I have seen in the UK have all had too much metal showing for my taste. I like the way in the Victor Canera setting where you can actually see the rounded outline of the stones around the halo. Also, I have not seen a ring in the UK with a rounded/tubular shank. Is that more difficult to set stones in to? The closest thing I've seen has been at Harry Winston and the prices are (obviously) crazy. The ones I have seen just don't seem to be as "neat", with as much attention to detail. My dad (ironically a former bench jeweller himself) says that a lot of that can be rectified by a specialist polisher, but I am just nervous to have something made when I'm not 100% comfortable. I'm a girl and there's a lot of emotion wrapped up in these things!

    These are the things I'm specifically looking for:

    Claws/prongs: “eagle” claws, not too thin.

    Shank: set ¾ of the way around, c1.8mm wide, I would like the shank to have a rounded/tubular shape

    Halo: c25 degree downward tilt. c1.5mm wide when viewed from above, so approx. 1.7mm wide. I want the stone to sit exactly on the halo, not above (creates a dark shadow) not below (don’t want a bezel). minimal metal on the “lip”, i.e. minimal metal below the stones when viewed from the side.

    Struts/basket (the bits between the halo and the shank) : I would like them set with diamonds, and curved towards the stone not straight.
    “Donut” (the circular bit between the basket and shank): 5mm diameter, no stones

    Pave: Shallow u-cut/cut down pave

    One an unrelated note, is there any structural advantage to a cathedral setting vs. a non cathedral setting? I can't seem to get a conclusive answer.

    Louise

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    63

    Default

    I'm also confused.

    You say you don't see the same 'quality' here but isn't what you really mean 'style'. It's about the design not the quality of the work,surely?

    You want something different to what you have seen. That doesn't make it related to quality.

    You seem to have very specific ideas on what you want (even down to measurements and degrees of angles!) so it really is just approaching jewellers who will make it for you and won't find you a total pain in the backside and a potentially insulting one at that!

    Sorry for my bluntness

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Finland
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    Do let us know what happens & good luck.
    Just to add, platinum would be advisable material for that kind of work.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
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    If I was a English subject (well technically I am) I would seek some one local to do the work rather than go overseas, I am sure there are plenty of people in the UK who could do that I know in Australia there are, I am currently receiving instruction on how to complete this sort of work

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