Setting stones

[itsalizzything]

Hi everyone, I am trying to set some marquise aquamarines (no vprongs) and emerald cut andesine labradorites in earrings. They are basket settings. I am having one heck of a time trying to find tutorials and information on how to set them, finding plenty on how to make the setting, just not how to actually set them. Any tips and info would be amazing. Thank you!
Lizzy

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[Dennis]

Dear Lizzi,
If you are going to do this without going on a course, you could do worse than treat yourself to the book, 'Creative Stone Setting' by John Cogswell.

Basket settings are claw settings, so make sure the girdle of the stone is supported by the bearer and is perfectly level. Then mark the prongs internally just above the girdle. An easy way to do this is to use a sharp snap off craft blade as the scriber.

Remove the stone and file a notch only just above your mark with a triangular needle file, or lentil shaped burr, to less than half way in. Replace the stone and push the prongs down onto the stone.

You will now notice that the prongs are much too long, but long prongs are much easier to bend. In fact they should be just short of the table of the stone. You can shorten them with cutters, or with a saw. Finally round and flatten the prong ends with needle files and a rubber wheel.
If you have a spare basket, practice with a cheap CZ first. It helps to render one edge of a file safe by grinding and polishing, so that you do not mark your stone.

Beginners are often so proud of their claw settings, that they leave the claws far too long. You are meant to show off the stone, not the claws. Dennis.

[itsalizzything]

Thank you dennis! I'm definitely going to get that book, as I love having books around for learning. My boss unfortunately has stopped me from setting the earrings, but I truly appreciate your help. I will refer back to your reply for future reference. Thank you again!
Lizzy

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