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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Central London
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    Default Mission Completed.

    I have now made my remaining belts, probably the last for this year. The sterling buckles are gently curved and have centre cross bars.
    One was made from strip and filed to shape. The other was made from round wire, faceted in the mill and then swaged.

    There is little more to say about the metal work, so I thought I would introduce you to some of the tools I used on the leather. Don’t read on if you know all this already.

    I am still an abject beginner at belt making, being mostly self-taught, with some advice from suppliers and suggestions from ps_bond for finishing the edges.
    Starting on the left in picture 3:

    The skiver is used for thinning the leather from the back, particularly where it is folded over the cross bar. It has very sharp disposable blades. By cutting on a sheet of glass it saves the blade from too much damage when it inevitably slips off

    The tool with the wooden handle is a beveller, which is used with a pushing action to remove the sharp angles of cut edges. It litters the floor with fine leather laces.

    The dark wheel with a hole and a grooved edge is a slicker. You are meant to run it along the slightly wetted edge of the belt to achieve polished finish. I have never previously had much success with it. This time it occurred to me to mount it on the spindle of my Proxxon grinder polisher. That was much more effective, particularly when I used bees wax as a finish.

    The dividers are there to show that accurate marking out is essential. The rivets are set with the large concave punch, so as not to damage their heads.

    The hole punching pliers suit me fine, although it seems that professionals prefer separate punches.

    Mission completed. Dennis
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bbs1 Belt 2.jpg   Bbs 2 Belt 3.jpg   Bbs 3 Tools For Leather.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    440

    Default

    Very elegant belts - and interesting info on tools and methods. One life just isn't enough to do all the things I fancy doing... I'll just have to ignore the urge to take up leather working.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
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    Default

    They look really good, Dennis. Are you moistening the edges of the leather before using the beveller? It depends on the leather a bit (chrome tanned leathers tend to be less responsive) but it can make the cutting a bit easier.
    I usually burnish edges using some gum tragacanth - dabbed on and allowed to dry a little then burnished to a shine. Again, depends on the leather.

    I have both an assortment of individual punches and pliers - and I usually end up grabbing the pliers if the hole can be done with them.

  4. #4
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    Thank you Peter, I have tried Edge Kote, but gave it up because it is difficult to stop unsightly dribbles. I presumed gum trag would have the same problem, so I have just used water, let it dry and then beeswax leather polish.

    I have always been envious of the beautiful finishes on Italian belts, but I can find no one in London who is into that.

    Thank you Alan. Regards, Dennis.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
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    Default

    I'm not a huge fan of Edge Kote, although it's not too bad for masking scuffs on high heels. I usually apply gum trag using a fingertip, it doesn't need a thick coating, just enough to moisten the leather before burnishing. Tends to dry out quickly too.

    I know a guy who teaches leatherwork in Kent if that's of interest?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    440

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    Quote Originally Posted by ps_bond View Post
    I know a guy who teaches leatherwork in Kent if that's of interest?
    Too far from Pembrokeshire for me, though I might keep an eye out for something closer to home. But my problem is getting enthused by too many different things and not really focusing on anything long and hard enough to get really good at it. I should learn to just stand back and admire other people's good work while resisting the temptation to take it up myself...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Manchester
    Posts
    632

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    I The skiver is used for thinning the leather from the back, particularly where it is folded over the cross bar. It has very sharp disposable blades. By cutting on a sheet of glass it saves the blade from too much damage when it inevitably slips off
    This is the tool bookbinders most often use for paring their leather:
    http://www.hewitonline.com/English_P.../tl-070-pk.htm
    If properly prepared and sharpened it cuts very efficiently.

    If you were doing a lot of belt work you might want to consider a paring machine:
    http://www.hewitonline.com/Scharf_Fi...s_p/tl-091.htm

    Instead of paring on to glass, most bookbinders prefer a lithostone. You can see one illustrated near the bottom of this page.

  8. #8
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    Dec 2009
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    Central London
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    I know what you bookbinders are after, Mark: you are trying to make me spend more money. As I only make three or four belts a year, I am determined not to. Regards, Dennis.

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