learning setting

[vernon]

i used to be a jobbing jeweller, not including setting, so I am teaching myself. A friend wanted a silver ring to remind her of her mother, she has a costume jewellery bracelet link which is just a square of 9 brilliants. I made her a silver ring set with white CZ's the ring was made from 9 tubes soldered with hard solder paste and then the shank was soldered with hard as well. It's not the best but it pushed my building and soldering skills.


The pictures dont do the sparkle justice but I have no lightbox.

[Dennis]

Dear Vernon,

Thank you for showing us your ring. Various issues surface from your picture and although traditionally here, show and tells are greeted with admiration or uncontroversial comments, I hope you will forgive me if I start a discussion instead.

Some members who do not have a light box get quite good lighting on a window sill. However to liven up gemstones, professional photographers use an additional lamp with LEDs-a sparkler. There are some quite cheap clamp on ones available, but the colour temperature needs to be near to daylight, or it will give a colour cast.

As far as the setting is concerned, you will have noted that the tubes need to be separated at the top end, either by using a fine saw, or by thin spacer strips, which would make it far easier.
To show off the stones at their best they need to be retained with the very minimum of thin metal, finally burnished to a round shape. If the metal collars are not too heavy, they can be made more perfect using a collet closing tool or a large cup burr in a universal handle.

Welcome to the forum, Dennis.

[caroleallen]

I like the design of it though I can see there are bits to work on.

[vernon]

The picture doesn't show off the sparkle or the pattern that the rubbed over silver makes, it was only taken with a phone. I learnt that you need to have the least metal above the girdle to rub over and I have made some single stone rings which are better. I only showed it because it was my third go at making it, but you are right it could do with some work although I would make a new ring now.

[vernon]

To Dennis
You are quite right the lighting needs to have another light source, I only had the phone available but I am looking to find a LED light source and use my Nikon, at least you dont need to waste film. The silver setting forms quite a good pattern on the top which doesn't show up in the picture. I have since set quite a few single stone rings and realised that you need a lot of control over the setting height and thickness. I dont have rub over tools only burnishers. Rub over tools are likely to be my next purchase.

[BarbL]

I'm glad you posted the picture of the collet closing tool! I've heard of them but never seen them. I'm a pretty new jeweler, just now getting into gemstones and settings, so this was the ideal time to learn about this. I've been setting by pinching things with pliers or whatever I can figure out. It doesn't look bad, but it is a nuisance to work this way. This tool looks ideal.

[vernon]

I have found a collet closing tool set at cousins.uk they do an English set for about £65 or a set from India for £17. I took the plunge and went for the Indian set and it seems OK. Short on money!

[ps_bond]

I have a set; all I've ever used it for is layout of stones. It might be worth working over your new set and polishing the insides of the closers so they don't mark the metal.

I'd be remiss not to warn you about Cousins' novel interpretations of customer service, customer retention and the Sale of Goods Act.

[pearlescence]

They (cousins) don't seem to have heard of the consumer contract regulations (or even its predecessor law the distance selling regulations) with all that mumbo jumbo about returns

Oh deary dear.

[trialuser]

They (cousins) don't seem to have heard of the consumer contract regulations (or even its predecessor law the distance selling regulations) with all that mumbo jumbo about returns

Oh deary dear.

From memory, I don't think they sell to consumers.
I think you need to tick a box saying that you are a business user before it will let you place the order.
Not sure though as I try and avoid them, especially now I've seen that picture!!