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Thread: mirror shine to Argentium silver?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Default mirror shine to Argentium silver?

    Hello, Would be grateful for your advice.

    Am making id bracelets using fine chain and skinny Argentium silver strip for personalising with metal hand stamps e.g. names, etc.

    How do I make the silver strip scratch free and give it a glassy finish?

    I don't have a tumbler and can't buy one at the moment.

    I've never polished anything really before so have no tools.

    At this stage would really appreciate methods requiring as little tools or equipment as possible.

    I've done some research and it seems to be wet and dry papers, working through grades and then finishing off with Rouge - but I've read that rouge doesn't really work that well without a tool.

    Have also read about Micromesh which I think is considered better than sandpaper?

    many thanks
    Last edited by lolabead; 29-07-2015 at 04:37 PM.

  2. #2
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    It's difficult to get a mirror finish without either machinery or lots of elbow grease. I think micro mesh is probably your best bet but it does take quite a bit of work working your way through the grades. A tumbler won't give you a mirror finish.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    Have you got a cheap little Dremel? Not something I'd usually go for, but then you would be able to use radial discs?
    Otherwise, as Carole already said, micro mesh is probably your best bet.

  4. #4
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    Feb 2011
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    Scotland
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    You might just get as near a mirror finish as you can without a polisher with these http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery...rcode-998-027B
    If you use all grades of micromesh up to as near a smooth finish, they might be.enough for small area. I use them to bring up highlights on oxidised copper fold form .
    It's very difficult to get good finishes without tools or equipment as Carole and Lucie have said, matt finishes are easier to achieve
    Last edited by CJ57; 29-07-2015 at 07:44 PM.

  5. #5
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    The real problem with polishing the name plate perfectly is that the jump rings get in the way of a clean sweep. This would be less so for radial disks if you use a series of say four grades, ending in light green.

    MicroMesh is a rubber backed abrasive sheet and will give a blinding finish, using a series of grits say:2500, 3600 (or 4000) 6000 and 8000.
    However it works best put flat on the table and the metal rubbed on it. This means doing it before adding jump rings through holes and preferably not soldered.

    Beginners, I have always suspected, do not feel they are being real jewellers if they resort to simple household products. But if I were on a budget I would put some Brasso on a pad of paper on the table and rub my flat surface on that. Then progress to Silvo on a soft cloth for the same treatment.
    It's dirty I know, but you can wear gloves and the metal polish residues come off with washing up liquid and hot water. Dennis.

  6. #6
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    Jun 2014
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    many thanks - would this suit the purpose?

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROTARY-MUL...3D311400035620

  7. #7
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    Jul 2012
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    Eeek. I'm so wary of cheapy things from ebay - My very first polishing motor was from ebay (years & years ago) & the dang thing burnt out after it's 2nd use!
    If you need to save money, at least go for something on Amazon with a good few reviews. The returns policy is also better. Ebay disputes / returns can be a drawn out nightmare.
    Make sure you find out what size mandrel it takes. Not all mandrels will fit all rotary tools. Radial discs fit onto a 3/32"(2.35mm) Shank?
    Speed might be a problem on cheaper models.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    63

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    Get a dremel on Amazon, a lot cheaper than on cooksons! I only use a dremel,will upgrade one day but it does the job

  9. #9
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    To accept radial disks, as Lucie has said the jaws must accept 2.35mm shanks.

    To be kind in conserving your tools pick a drill with variable speed control, or it is likely to be much too fast. Dennis.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    I would echo Lucie: be very cautious about buying a cheap dremel "type" (though I'm the other way round on where to buy - I'm not a fan of Amazon and I use eBay all the time. Their dispute/returns system works fine if you understand and follow their system.)

    We had a couple of cheaper rotary tools years ago just for cleaning the holes of our lampworked glass beads - but they were poor quality and didn't last. Then we got a Dremel (the rechargeable "Stylus", because it's cordless and its lowest speed is quite slow which is better for bead cleaning). Now I use it a lot for silver but I want something better, so I'm doing some research and saving up.

    If I were you, I'd follow Dennis' advice: learn how to get a good finish by hand with inexpensive materials, and save up for at least a half decent rotary tool. You can research the different models on the Dremel website and, if you are patient and keep scouring the auctions on eBay, you may get lucky with something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dremel-300...item56790276c9

    Don't be seduced by something with loads of attachments and accessories - most of them will probably be of no use to you and you'll be better off buying the accessories you need (such as radial discs) as and when you need them. One useful thing I have bought is the chuck fitting for the Dremel which accepts a wider range of shank sizes than the standard collets. You can get one of those for a little over £1 on eBay from Hong Kong.

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