Durston rolling mills

[sue cybersilver]

Hi, hope this is the right place to ask a question about Durston rolling mills. I'm hoping to get the Combination mini 100 - I want to recycle my scrap silver and roll out my own sheet. Is this mill up to that task? And also, I've heard that without the 4:1 gearbox (like on the DRM100) they are really difficult to turn - is that true? Would love to hear from people who have these. Thanks in advance Sue X

[Wallace]

Hi Sue,

I have the 80, without the gearbox. I have a neck problem, which is a huge issue for me. It might be why I don't do it every week, but, I recycle a lot of my silver and make many rings from the sheet I make. If the 80 is up to it, then the one you are looking at most certainly is. Just make sure when turning it is just with a little inertia to get the cogs moving.

Good luck with you choice.

[ps_bond]

"It depends" - my usual response it seems.

Gearbox reduction is great if you're rolling a lot, or trying to take large bits out of the thickness. Upper body strength is a limiting factor for some. My D4 is currently set up with the 11:1 reduction; while it takes less effort per revolution, that means that I have to do a lot of winding. If you're only doing small amounts of milling, then ungeared works depending on build. I'm trying to create 6" wide sheets, so they take more effort.

If you can budget for a geared mill, I feel they're more versatile; if not, go with what you can afford.

[sue cybersilver]

Hi Sue,

I have the 80, without the gearbox. I have a neck problem, which is a huge issue for me. It might be why I don't do it every week, but, I recycle a lot of my silver and make many rings from the sheet I make. If the 80 is up to it, then the one you are looking at most certainly is. Just make sure when turning it is just with a little inertia to get the cogs moving.

Good luck with you choice.

Thanks very much. I have some problems with my neck too, so that has definitely made me think. Thanks

[sue cybersilver]

"It depends" - my usual response it seems.

Gearbox reduction is great if you're rolling a lot, or trying to take large bits out of the thickness. Upper body strength is a limiting factor for some. My D4 is currently set up with the 11:1 reduction; while it takes less effort per revolution, that means that I have to do a lot of winding. If you're only doing small amounts of milling, then ungeared works depending on build. I'm trying to create 6" wide sheets, so they take more effort.

If you can budget for a geared mill, I feel they're more versatile; if not, go with what you can afford.

Thank you, that's very helpful. I'm thinking maybe I need to save a bit more LOL

[CJ57]

I bought a geared one and it still needs a bit of effort so I would save and get the best you can afford. It's worth if buying from Cookson to watch for a sale and also free delivery which is quite a saving on a Durston delivery, anything that will bring the cost down

[sue cybersilver]

Thank you X

[sue cybersilver]

You have all helped me make up my mind that I will definitely get geared mill - thanks. Can I ask if you use the wire making part of your mills. I'm not sure how useful they are and so am wondering whether to hunt down one of the DRF100's as opposed to one with the wire part in the actual roller? Thank you X

[ps_bond]

It doesn't matter how wide the flat section is, you'll always want just a *little* bit wider.
Yes, I use the square wire rolls (and the half-round rolls) when milling my own stock; it has to be said I use them less than the flat rolls though. Oval extension rolls might be nice, but I've got an oval drawplate so it falls into the luxury/spending money for the sake of it category.

[CJ57]

To be honest I always forget they are there:/ as Peter says an oval might be more use but I won't be buying one!