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Thread: Cutting rectangular wire

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by LydiaNiz View Post
    I misunderstood - sorry. Is there a reason you don't want to buy the rectangular wire as is?
    It unfortunately doesn't come in the size I want. I've remeasured this morning and I need 0.8 x 1.6 so its a bit different from the wire on the site. I will squash square wire I think that's the best option for long lengths. I assume I should squash in two directions to get it rectangular?

  2. #12
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    The secret of success, is to close the mill by only small increments and use the centre of the rollers. Remember the springs will still be acting if you make a second pass at the same setting.

    For evenness, you can reverse the wire, turn it upside down, or if your length allows, put the wire through sideways too.

    Never have it so tight that you can't easily turn your mill with one hand. Dennis.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    The secret of success, is to close the mill by only small increments and use the centre of the rollers. Remember the springs will still be acting if you make a second pass at the same setting.

    For evenness, you can reverse the wire, turn it upside down, or if your length allows, put the wire through sideways too.

    Never have it so tight that you can't easily turn your mill with one hand. Dennis.
    Thank you for the great advice.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by becks3636 View Post
    It unfortunately doesn't come in the size I want. I've remeasured this morning and I need 0.8 x 1.6 so its a bit different from the wire on the site. I will squash square wire I think that's the best option for long lengths. I assume I should squash in two directions to get it rectangular?
    I am curious to see what you intend making with such specific size wire?

    James

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldsmith View Post
    One final tip is when piercing hold the saw frame at right angles and pierce across the bench pin, I see so many beginners piercing sheet by holding the saw straight and piercing away from their face down the bench pin edge, which means that they cannot clearly see where they are cutting.

    James
    I'm pretty sure you've mentioned this before, and I had the idea you posted an image somewhere showing the recommended position to adopt. Unfortunately, I can't find any image at the moment. Do you basically have a benchpin with a diagonal or transverse slot cut into it so that you can run your saw across the front of you rather than directly away from you? I can see an image of you at one of your benchpins in your Ganoskin interview: http://ganoksin.com/blog/primitive/2...s-miller-fipg/ Is this how we should prepare our benchpins to facilitate the transverse sawing position you recommend?

    I am still a rank amateur at piercing and tend to experiment with different positions to get various jobs done. If you have any images of your preferred position whilst performing various piercing tasks I'm sure it would be invaluable for all of us to see them.
    Many thanks.
    Mark.

  6. #16
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    You are not the only one, I struggle with piercing too, only having one eye also for me is a hindrance because you lose depth perception, but it is getting better with time. (I dont trip up as much as I used to!!!!). My benchpeg has a "V" cutout at the front too, so I struggle using a saw at right angles, so I tend to cut with snippers and then file flat, you can only use this way for certain things, but I sawed a piece of 6mm tube the other day and broke two sawblades.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aurarius View Post
    I'm pretty sure you've mentioned this before, and I had the idea you posted an image somewhere showing the recommended position to adopt. Unfortunately, I can't find any image at the moment. Do you basically have a benchpin with a diagonal or transverse slot cut into it so that you can run your saw across the front of you rather than directly away from you? I can see an image of you at one of your benchpins in your Ganoskin interview: http://ganoksin.com/blog/primitive/2...s-miller-fipg/ Is this how we should prepare our benchpins to facilitate the transverse sawing position you recommend?

    I am still a rank amateur at piercing and tend to experiment with different positions to get various jobs done. If you have any images of your preferred position whilst performing various piercing tasks I'm sure it would be invaluable for all of us to see them.
    Many thanks.
    Mark.
    This is my bench pin Mark, with a standard V slot. I am afraid I do not have any photos of me piercing.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    James

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldsmith View Post
    This is my bench pin Mark, with a standard V slot. I am afraid I do not have any photos of me piercing.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    James
    I know James is brilliant but taking photos while holding a saw and a piece of metal the bench pin is only there to give support to the piece you are working on or at least mine is
    Last edited by CJ57; 16-05-2015 at 02:33 PM.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldsmith View Post
    This is my bench pin Mark, with a standard V slot. I am afraid I do not have any photos of me piercing.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	7720

    James
    Many thanks for your reply, James, and the photo.

    I'm still a little puzzled. If, as you advise, you hold the saw at right angles and pierce across the bench pin, where in relation to the v-notch and edges of the benchpin is the blade travelling as you pierce? I understand where the blade is travelling in the ill-advised beginners' method (along one side of the benchpin, away from the worker, and towards the bench), but I don't quite understand where the blade is travelling using your recommended method when you are piercing off a strip from sheet metal, say, nor where and how the sheet is held and orientated relative to you, the bench pin and the saw. I'm sure there's a very simple explanation, but the penny has not dropped for me yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by Patstone View Post
    You are not the only one, I struggle with piercing too, only having one eye also for me is a hindrance because you lose depth perception, but it is getting better with time.
    I can sympathize, Pat. I've got a brachial plexus injury to my right arm following a road accident many years ago and have only limited use and limited power in it. The use I do have is partly thanks to several tendon-transfers I've had. Fortunately a jeweller's saw needs only light strokes, and this has probably meant I've broken far fewer saw blades than most beginners because I saw quite gently as matter of necessity. People often say why don't you saw with your left arm then, but they don't realise that you need a properly-functioning arm to hold work down and manipulate it more than you need a properly functioning arm to wield a saw.

  10. #20
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    [QUOTE=Aurarius;78601]Many thanks for your reply, James, and the photo.

    I'm still a little puzzled. If, as you advise, you hold the saw at right angles and pierce across the bench pin, where in relation to the v-notch and edges of the benchpin is the blade travelling as you pierce? I understand where the blade is travelling in the ill-advised beginners' method (along one side of the benchpin, away from the worker, and towards the bench), but I don't quite understand where the blade is travelling using your recommended method when you are piercing off a strip from sheet metal, say, nor where and how the sheet is held and orientated relative to you, the bench pin and the saw. I'm sure there's a very simple explanation, but the penny has not dropped for me yet.

    The blade travels across the V hole in the bench pin and I move whatever I am piercing with my free hand while piercing. If I was piercing off a strip from a sheet, I mark my cutting line, then when piercing I move the sheet across the bench pin keeping the saw blade cutting within the V cut, this way I can see where the blade is cutting easier and both sides of the cutting area is supported.

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