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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    40

    Default Setting stones and random thoughts

    I'm planning on designing some sort of jewellery. I don't even know if 'jewellery' is the correct term for what I have in mind, but the technical stone-setting part will certainly apply.

    I really like designing 3D shapes that are designed as flat sheets then folded up into organic shapes a bit like metal origami. I also like the steampunk/industrial style and nature's wonderful creatures. As I collect gemstones, I thought I would try to put all these themes together and create something a bit unique. It doesn't really matter to me if it sells or not, I just want to try it out.

    I had a few thoughts a couple years ago, but I'm now looking to firm up a few ideas and look a bit wider for inspiration. I've been saving up a few small gemstones for this project, as it's been on my mind for a while, and (hopefully) below you can see what I have collected:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    They are all Asian sapphires (Kashmiri, Taiwanese, Sri-Lankan), except for the Pakistani Peridot top right. These are not something I would normally collect as they are way too small (about 2mm), but the collector part in me made sure they are good stones VVS or better.

    Dennis has pointed out in another thread that flush setting may be the best way to go, both for a complete novice and as a general way to set stones. By looking at the video he showed me, it certainly looks like something I could do. However, I'm open to any other options for a novice.

    I'll have to think about materials and thicknesses, but I won't have to worry too much about exposing the culets as they will all be facing inside the structure and not be next to skin or clothing. As far as I can make out, all I'll have to worry about is making sure it's thick enough to hold the girdle firmly.

    I'll be frank, I know nothing about jewellery, I don't even own a watch! If anyone can point me towards anything like this that has been done before I would be very grateful.

    Steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,421

    Default

    Well stones can be set with beads, claws or in tubes too. Even tapered holes and glue will work for stones with reflective backs, sometimes called mirror backs.

    I am more concerned with your ambition to create origami forms. Most of the acute angles required cannot be scored and bent without very painstaking metal work, unless you are only using foil, as with my birds below.

    My assay at origami with thicker sheet was done by cutting and soldering to simulate folded metal. Dennis.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bird Decoration.jpg   g4 Paper Clip Nest.jpg  

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    40

    Default

    Thanks Dennis, nice birds.

    My folds won't be quite so severe as that. Mostly they will be around 60-120 degrees or so. I'm planning to either photo or chemically etch the shapes and fold lines so they will be easier to achieve and have sharper corners.

    While it's been slow at work today I've been researching inspiration. I know you don't like links on this forum, so if you search Google for 'Elizabeth Goluch', 'Lucian Gaillard', 'Insect Lab' and 'Justin Gershenson-Gates' you'll get an idea of what I'm looking at. Although just this small sample proves that this niche market may already be saturated, so I may look elsewhere for something just for me.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,421

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by StevesStones View Post
    I know you don't like links on this forum.
    All together now folks: OH YES WE DO!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
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    5,087

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    Quote Originally Posted by StevesStones View Post
    I know you don't like links on this forum...
    Per Dennis' comment - we do, what we don't like is spammers trying to sell us junk. So, the system is set to disallow links being posted until a new user has a certain number of posts under their belt - you're well past the limit now

    Just seen some carved sycamore seeds that Google has thrown as being by Lucien Gaillard which I rather like.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    40

    Default

    Ha! OK, I'll try post a few to see if I'm moderated back to my hole...

    http://www.elizabethgoluch.com
    (click on 'portfolio')

    http://www.kellymccallum.com/gallery-1/

    https://www.tumblr.com/tagged/lucien-gaillard

    http://www.amechanicalmind.com/

    A few I found this afternoon. Although, I may find another subject to concentrate on. Insects appear to be well covered.

    Steve

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
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    Default

    Fabulous links, thank you Steve

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    724

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    You might want to make your thing in bits & put together lastly, sometimes setting stones in an awkward completed job can be trouble ..

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,902

    Default

    I agree with what Chris says, I have always made my insects, birds and flowers in pieces and assembled the finished article after the pieces have been enamelled, set with stones and polished.
    Not sure if you have seen my work Steve.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    James

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    West Berkshire
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Wow and double wow James! Your work is amazing.
    I especially love the dragonfly.

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