Lifestyle Photography Grrrr!

[caroleallen]

Well, I have the swanky lightbox (thank you Cooksons, it's fab) and a half decent camera (Canon 1000D DSLR), an assortment of tripods, props and jewellery, so it should be simple!

I'm using wooden bricks with bits of coloured paper as my props as I thought they had simple lines. I did try out some origami flowers to add interest, but they added too much interest. I get everything set up and then find the highlights are wrong and I can see my own reflection, so have to re-set everything. Then I realise the piece is moving on the prop and wait ages for it to stop. It doesn't stop. I have to blue-tack it down. In the process it all moves and the highlights are wrong again. Move it again and everything topples over !!!!!

I'm also realising that I really need to get my head around manual settings if I'm going to get anything half decent. Luckily for me (I think!) someone local is advertising photography classes. Spoke to him and he's offered me a one to one specifically for jewellery. It turns out he's a retired product photographer, so hopefully he'll know some tricks.

On Monday, I shall be an expert jewellery photographer. Watch this space!

[medusa]

does the lightbox thing have a hole you stick the lens through? If it is white on all sides, you shouldn't have hardly any reflection (my light box is a large clotted cream tub with a hole cut in the top).

Learning the manual settings is a must. Because it's silver (mostly) and light, on auto the camera is looking for the mid tones in the whole image. This can mean the light areas get over exposed. You can fix this in photoshop (or lightroom, which is cheaper and easier and does what you need).

If you can set the ISO to a slower speed that will help. Also getting the aperture and shutter speeds can make a difference. It's all basically about getting the same amount of light in, but if your aperture is really small, (which creates slow speeds), you get greater depth of field (more is in focus).

Big aperture makes for a fast shutter speed but this means focusing is critical as only a small area will be in sharp focus. The fancy name is Bokeh (sp?) and it's a bit gimmicky and naff, I think, but can be effective if done well.

Also if you don't have one, get a shutter release cable. even tripods can be wonky

[caroleallen]

Wish I'd asked you for help in the first place Liz. I didn't know you were so knowledgeable about photography. I could have had a one to one with you - damn!

[Vos]

Carole, are you applying the rule of thirds? (Forgive me if you know this). It makes a HUGE difference to the dynamism of your shots.

Divide your viewfinder into thirds and then place the focal point on one of the intersections...



Putting the horizon on either horizontal can give a hugely different impact. Do an image search for 'rule of thirds photography' and you'll really get to see the impact it makes. If your lines are what you're struggling with, it can turn a mediocre shot into a winner.


Hope this helps

Vos


*edit* I think your camera should have a 'grid' setting that will actually overlay this onto your live viewfinder.

Just re-read and realised I completely skim read and it wasn't what you were struggling with. I'll leave post here though for others.

[caroleallen]

I'm struggling with everything Vos, so any info is helpful. Thanks for your input.

[ShinyLauren]

Carole, I bought something called Prop Wax to stop pices moving - it's clear and you only need a tiny bit to hold somethibg still.

I also slways use a shutter release cable and manual focus whilst using the screen (zoomed in) to view rather than looking through the viewfinder.

Pieces of white card are also useful to reflect the light where you want it.

Photographing small shiny things is an absolute bugger! Looking forward to hearing what you learn in your one to one.