Template for hollow form, signet style ring

[Lucy Campbell]

Dear All,

I have been struggling to find an accurate formula for creating a template for a hollow form, signet style ring with an oval cabochon setting. There is one tutorial on ganoksin (project hollow ring I can't post the URL here as this is must first forum post) but there is no formula given for drawing out the template accurately
Can anyone point me in the right direction of a formula or directions for drawing up the template or do I need to keep on with my current trial and error method which is not yielding much in the way of results. The opening for the cabochon always seems to be too big or too small …. maths is not my strong point but I can't figure out exactly where I'm going wrong.
Also I live in a remote spot where getting my hands on materials is not easy and I need to conserve my resources so I don't want to keep making mistakes!

Thanks in advance for your assistance

Lucy

[Goldsmith]

Hi Lucy, I looked up the tutorial you mentioned and here it is; http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/hollow-ring.htm so others can see what you want to make.

I have never made this type of ring so I am no help to you, when I have made rings for my daughter she designs what she wants and that is never a hollow ring so I keep them simple.
These are some of her rings;



James

[Dennis]

Dear Lucy.
Some years ago I had to make this project ring, which I hope is what you are after. It is one of the many variants to the one in James' link, but simplified to just one diagram.

Add the length to the width of an oval stone and divide by two to get the diameter as if it were round.
Then treat the ring as if for a round stone, and before closing the shank convert it to oval by pushing in an oval manrel until the stone fits.
The last thing you need is a bearer to support the stone at the right level for setting, so you solder in an oval jump ring.

The diagram was supplied by our tutor on the course, Martin. Regards, Dennis.

[theresa]

How did you make the 3rd one with the deep shoulders James? It's gorgeous.

Hi Lucy, I looked up the tutorial you mentioned and here it is; http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/hollow-ring.htm so others can see what you want to make.

I have never made this type of ring so I am no help to you, when I have made rings for my daughter she designs what she wants and that is never a hollow ring so I keep them simple.
These are some of her rings;



James

[Lucy Campbell]

Thanks so much!
Dennis - I have been using an H shaped template but will give this one a try today as I think the single join in the bezel could make it a whole lot easier to get accurate sizing.
James - Thanks for the lovely ring pics, I'm thinking number three is a deep bezel shaped to the ring shank, if I don't win with the template I might be going in that direction.
If I manage it I'll post a picture … well not if, when … I'm determined that this ring won't defeat me!!

Thanks again
Lucy

[Goldsmith]

Yes my third ring is a deep bezel soldered onto a ring shank, I prepared this photo showing how I make a deep bezel setting to hold a stone, sorry if you have seen it before.



James

[Gemsetterchris]

If everyone could get their bezels as accurate as you James, I'd be very happy
Unfortunately some are miles off the mark which is challenging to say the least.

[Goldsmith]

If everyone could get their bezels as accurate as you James, I'd be very happy
Unfortunately some are miles off the mark which is challenging to say the least.

Chris, I spent many years working alongside Cartier trained goldsmiths and everything was measured using Douzieme Gauges and micrometers. They used to check fittings on the boxes they made using feeler gauges. Accuracy was everything, fittings were either true or wrong. Times have changed.

James

[Lucy Campbell]

Thanks for the clear explanation James, I have to admit that my step bezels are no where near as beautifully accurate as your method. Inspirational!
Lucy