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Thread: Template for hollow form, signet style ring

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Red face Template for hollow form, signet style ring

    Dear All,

    I have been struggling to find an accurate formula for creating a template for a hollow form, signet style ring with an oval cabochon setting. There is one tutorial on ganoksin (project hollow ring I can't post the URL here as this is must first forum post) but there is no formula given for drawing out the template accurately
    Can anyone point me in the right direction of a formula or directions for drawing up the template or do I need to keep on with my current trial and error method which is not yielding much in the way of results. The opening for the cabochon always seems to be too big or too small . maths is not my strong point but I can't figure out exactly where I'm going wrong.
    Also I live in a remote spot where getting my hands on materials is not easy and I need to conserve my resources so I don't want to keep making mistakes!

    Thanks in advance for your assistance

    Lucy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    England
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    Hi Lucy, I looked up the tutorial you mentioned and here it is; http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/hollow-ring.htm so others can see what you want to make.

    I have never made this type of ring so I am no help to you, when I have made rings for my daughter she designs what she wants and that is never a hollow ring so I keep them simple.
    These are some of her rings;

    Click image for larger version. 

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    James

  3. #3
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    Central London
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    Dear Lucy.
    Some years ago I had to make this project ring, which I hope is what you are after. It is one of the many variants to the one in James' link, but simplified to just one diagram.

    Add the length to the width of an oval stone and divide by two to get the diameter as if it were round.
    Then treat the ring as if for a round stone, and before closing the shank convert it to oval by pushing in an oval manrel until the stone fits.
    The last thing you need is a bearer to support the stone at the right level for setting, so you solder in an oval jump ring.

    The diagram was supplied by our tutor on the course, Martin. Regards, Dennis.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1. Hollow Ring, Plan..jpg   2. Hollow Ring With Oval CZ.jpg  

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    658

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    How did you make the 3rd one with the deep shoulders James? It's gorgeous.
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldsmith View Post
    Hi Lucy, I looked up the tutorial you mentioned and here it is; http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/hollow-ring.htm so others can see what you want to make.

    I have never made this type of ring so I am no help to you, when I have made rings for my daughter she designs what she wants and that is never a hollow ring so I keep them simple.
    These are some of her rings;

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	76 silver rings with rub over settings.jpg 
Views:	85 
Size:	22.1 KB 
ID:	7578

    James

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks so much!
    Dennis - I have been using an H shaped template but will give this one a try today as I think the single join in the bezel could make it a whole lot easier to get accurate sizing.
    James - Thanks for the lovely ring pics, I'm thinking number three is a deep bezel shaped to the ring shank, if I don't win with the template I might be going in that direction.
    If I manage it I'll post a picture … well not if, when … I'm determined that this ring won't defeat me!!

    Thanks again
    Lucy

  6. #6
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    Aug 2010
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    England
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    Yes my third ring is a deep bezel soldered onto a ring shank, I prepared this photo showing how I make a deep bezel setting to hold a stone, sorry if you have seen it before.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    James

  7. #7
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    Feb 2013
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    Finland
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    If everyone could get their bezels as accurate as you James, I'd be very happy
    Unfortunately some are miles off the mark which is challenging to say the least.

  8. #8
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    Aug 2010
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    England
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gemsetterchris View Post
    If everyone could get their bezels as accurate as you James, I'd be very happy
    Unfortunately some are miles off the mark which is challenging to say the least.
    Chris, I spent many years working alongside Cartier trained goldsmiths and everything was measured using Douzieme Gauges and micrometers. They used to check fittings on the boxes they made using feeler gauges. Accuracy was everything, fittings were either true or wrong. Times have changed.

    James
    Last edited by Goldsmith; 01-04-2015 at 11:42 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Thanks for the clear explanation James, I have to admit that my step bezels are no where near as beautifully accurate as your method. Inspirational!
    Lucy

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