Wire

[barleycorn]

can anyone tell me the thickest mm SSP wire that can be turned through 90*° without heat?

[Dennis]

Hi Barleycorn, and welcome to the forum.

Theoretically any thickness of wire can be bent to a right angle if it is long enough to gain a purchase, and you have a suitable device for doing so. However, if you want a sharp angle rather than a rounded one, you will ned to score a V-shaped groove on the inside first. This will also facilitate bending and in many cases, as with claws, wont need soldering.

As I don't have the faintest idea what ssp wire is (stainless steel, sterling silver, P?) and nor does the Cookson site, perhaps you can explain.

Kind regards, Dennis.

[barleycorn]

Many thanks Dennis. My reference to' SSP 'was simply Soft Silver Plated copper ? Or is this term a euphemism for the term 'Half-Hard? I imagine there would be a number of file sizes best suited for each thickness of wire? also I imagine there would be a variety of fine solder 'stems' to suit the wire being soldered? I am trying to create a number of 'plaits' using silver/gold plated fine wire. so you can wish me luck with that. ! your advice will always be welcome to a complete novice!

[ps_bond]

Half-hard silver wire is exactly that (or should be anyway). Silver wire, not copper plated with silver, that is somewhere between annealed and fully hardened.
Plated wires do not solder well at the temperatures required for jewellery solders; the process is brazing despite it being called soldering. You'll burn the plating off.

[pearlescence]

plated wires cannot be soldered. The covering doesn't survive. It simply melts into the main metal.
(I wish there was a way to solder gold plate on silver but there isn't...dang)

[barleycorn]

Great.. I have bought a couple of (thankfully) inexpensive gold plated copper wire reels on the net. I had hoped to be able to solder the wire ends to a piece of cheap (cast) aluminium plate. If, as you suggest it is not possible to solder the two elements together then presumably I would need to use some fine brazing rod and/or a fine half hard? silver/gold wire? I apologise for my lack of knowledge here but I assume that an Anti tarnish polished BRASS finish on either copper/steel/brass wire is not an option? Many thanks. Dave

[ps_bond]

And another torpedo, I'm afraid - you're not going to braze to aluminium with much ease either. Aluminium is a pig at the best of times; there are some low-temperature solders that are supposed to work with it but I've never tried them.
Cold connections - crimps, for example - are the only real option with any plated wire.

[barleycorn]

Many thanks peter.... I have an alternative option which might work? PMC? maybe? ..just maybe I could place very small 'balls' of clay on the back of the aluminium plate in the hope that it might stay put long enough for me to insert 1-2 plated wires into the compound.? and fired by a high degree flame from a butane pen type iron.? Perhaps I neglected to mention that all the secured points would be totally out of sight and neatness is of no importance whatsoever just as long as the adhesion remains secure. many thanks.

[Dennis]

All the plated base metals you mention and also aluminium (which has a very low melting point), would be damaged by heating with a torch.

Your plated wires can be soft soldered with a soldering iron, to brass, copper, or iron sheet, but that is something we normally avoid, for fear of contaminating our worktop.

Peter mentioned cold connecting by crimping. At its simplest the wire is passed through a short tube, through a hole in the sheet, and then back trough the tube. the tube is then tightened by pinching it.

Our help is rather restricted by you posing a series of leading questions. I think it would be better if you explained more fully, just what you are trying to make, so that we can consider your problem more realistically. Dennis.

[barleycorn]

Cheers Dennis. 1) I have a thin (2-3 mm) cast aluminium plate approx. 4" in diam.The plate has an inscription on the convex obverse side (front) which is polished. And needs to avoid any high heat source to prevent accidental damage. The Reverse (back) of the plate is by definition, concave. The design I have in mind will have numerous silver/gold wires emanating from the centre of the plate, similar to a cycle wheel, at the back.All of which will extend approx. 2" beyond the entire circumference of the plate, to which I propose to attach miniature flags of all nations. My problem of course is to find a suitable 'agent' e.g. a reasonably QD Dental cement? type of material, which will not only guarantee adhesion to the cast alum on the back, but will allow me to insert gold/silver wires before the material sets hard.OK? Once all wires have been secured in place the reverse side can be covered with a circular lightweight plastic disc and secured in place with strong glue. And naturally totally unseen. I hope this explains the problem as you requested. Many thanks.