What is wrong with me?

**enigma** · 23-01-2015, 11:39 PM

I have a bad habit of picking out stones that I like and deciding I can figure out how to set them later.
The latest is a 4mm by 2mm marquise Alexandrite

I mean, really , what was I thinking?
I now have an order for a ring with it set in rose gold so I got it out to look at it and am now wondering how on earth I am supposed to set it, its teeny!
Ideas on a postcard please …..

**Dennis** · 24-01-2015, 02:52 AM

It's actually easy to make a rub down collet, now you've got a mill Sara, because you can roll it down from high carat wire, the higher the better. It is so slender the colour won't notice, but reduce very slowly, so as to keep it straight. Try as you might it will be a little curved, but that's good, because you will have a tapered collet. That means no bearer needed.

1.0mm round will roll down to 1.5 x 0.4mm
1.5mm round will roll down to 2.0 x 0.5mm
2.0x1.0 rectangular will roll down to 2.2 x 0.5mm

Personally I would roll down 1.0mm wire to be just about 0.25mm thick. Then solder two pieces at one end, surround the stone and pinch together at the other end with tweezers, drop out the stone and solder again.

The stone can be stuck upside down with BluTack to steady it. What carat? probably22ct for softness. Practice with copper first. Dennis.

**enigma** · 24-01-2015, 10:14 AM

You are a star Dennis thank you!
It hadn't occurred to me to use two lengths that way but of course that will be much easier than trying to bend it around the end on a fragile stone!

I hadn't thought of rolling down wire either, was going to use the 18ct 0.5mm sheet and roll that down but 22ct wire sounds a very good idea thanks!

**Dennis** · 24-01-2015, 02:05 PM

You probably know this Sara, but if you prefer straight bezel, you just anneal, put one end in a vice and pull with pliers. However doing this will make it slightly thinner and narrower.

I can also recommend my mini light box, for judging the fit. Essentially it consists of a cheap battery operated LED cupboard light, with some white tape to dim the brightness, covered by a clear plastic lid or box to give a level surface.