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Thread: 18ct gold bezel-soldering question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Default 18ct gold bezel-soldering question

    Following Peters suggestion on another thread Ive now bought some 0.5mm 18ct red gold sheet to make some bezels with.
    Ive rolled it to 0.3mm in my new rolling mill courtesy of Cooksons
    And I was just wondering whether there is anything I need to know about soldering 18ct red gold before I have a disaster with it?
    Its not being hallmarked so I was going to use the 9ct red solder that I have in both panel (medium) and paste(easy)
    I was going to use the panel as its melting range (785-790) should then allow me to solder the bezels onto the silver band with easy silver paste.

    Oh and if anybody has any tips on how to shape a 3mm heart bezel that would be great too lol

    Any warnings appreciated !
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    As chance would have it, I've made something similar recently:

    Probably the smallest Christmas Present in the world by Chas Ward, on Flickr

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/7571246@N02/15916167899/


    The method was:
    1. prepare 5mm wide 0.3mm bezel sheet on a mandrel as for making a ring (but smaller, obviously)
    2. flatten the 'ring' slightly so that there are two flat sides parallel with (side-on) U shaped ends
    3. place on your soldering mat / charcoal with the join uppermost.
    4. Apply plenty of flux along the join and a smattering of solder grain (or filed solder sheet / wire) down the very seam.
    5. Heat to the point of solder running
    6. Continue to heat, withdrawing the flame slightly but continue to increase the temperature more gradually
    7. as the metal begins to sag (how quick are your reactions) withdraw the flame entirely as the seam collapses in.
    8. Cool, pickle and 'perfect' the shape by forming with a leather hammer using small drill-bits inside the chambers of the heart.
    9. Saw the 5mm length of heart-shaped prism in half. Hey presto, 2 x 2.5mm depth hearts in 0.3 sheet.
    10. Place the hearts onto a length of 5mm wide 0.3mm sheet (these were placed together but doesn't have to be so) then solder
    11. pierce; file and polish.


    Hope this works for you. Someone else may have an alternative approach.

    Let me know if I can help further.

    Chas
    Last edited by metalsmith; 27-12-2014 at 01:38 PM.

  3. #3
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    Hi Sarah, what you propose should cause no problems, as the 18ct gold bezel, will have a melting range just above 800 degrees. Just solder in semi dark so that you heat only the main piece at the last stage and not the bezel.

    As for making these tiny bezels, Your stone can be turned upside down and stuck onto a surface with BluTack as a former.

    Then I would roll down some copper and work out what size of fully soldered round bezel can be slipped onto the stone and gradually formed into a heart around it, by pushing with the end of a screwdriver or similar tool.

    You might have to anneal more than once. Where to have the joint? Well probably along one side.Dennis.

  4. #4
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    Thanks very much Chas and Dennis!
    The soldering has gone ok, just trying to perfect the shape around the stone now, ugh.
    And Im only on the 5mm one so far, I have two 3mm ones yet to come.
    I may be some time LOL

  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    Oh well done - that looks great

  7. #7
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  8. #8
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  9. #9
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    Well done Sarah. Is that white horse hair, or something else? do you have to keep a stock of it?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Thanks Dennis!
    Its white horse hair with rose gold wire braided in.
    Almost all my items are made with the customers own horses hair although I do have 15 horses of my own so plenty to go and cut if I need one lol

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