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Thread: Help with prong setting design for radiant cut diamond

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Default Help with prong setting design for radiant cut diamond

    Hello again, new to this forum just introduced myself, I am currently in the process of designing an engagement ring for a .9 carat radiant diamond. I'll prefix this by saying I have almost no clue what I'm doing but I am going to go ahead and do it anyway, because I can. I am designing a ring based off a ring my girlfriend made for herself a few years ago, just looking to add the stone on top now. I intend to have it printed and cast by shape ways and then Ill finish it as close as I can before working with a local stone setter to have it completed. I am struggling to design the correct shape of Claws for the setting, and can't seem to find enough info by googling. If somebody can take a look at the photo and tell me if I am going in the right direction or not that would be great. the stone in the picture is the exact dimensions as the one I am getting, so just need tot design the prongs around it. Ideally I would like the prongs to be rectangular shaped and come up out of the side of the ring with the long edge in line with the edge of the ring, then twist 45 degrees (approx.) to be in line with the edge of the stone. I am working in sketch up and drawing the fluid twist is a little beyond me so right now contemplating casting them as is and just reshaping them by hand once I have the ring.
    Main questions
    what thickness is needed for the prongs to hold a .9 carat stone? currently i think they are about 1.3mm x a tad less than that
    are the prongs rising up at the correct angle?
    should the prongs turn up above the stone to minimise work after casting?
    am i a complete idiot?

    Just to clarify I am aware the internal shape is not typical but I assure you it fits just fine.Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    Only thing I can say about the prongs is that they look way too wide for the facet that they will be on once set.
    Discuss it with your intended setter, they'll be the one with the problem & might have their own preference.

    Personally I think an "open" bezel would suit the design better, just cover the ends & corners ?
    Last edited by Gemsetterchris; 06-11-2014 at 11:47 AM.

  3. #3
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    The size of the shank has been verified by you and unusually shaped shanks are quite common.

    But sizing and re-sizing in the future will have to be done without benefit of a ring stick. Also the use of a ring stretcher, triblet, or hammer would change its shape, so you are sacrificing convenience on the altar of art.

    You could avoid the problem by retaining the outer shape, which is all you see when on the finger, but making the finger hole round. Dennis.
    Last edited by Dennis; 06-11-2014 at 12:19 PM.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for your quick reply Chris! Could you maybe elaborate on an open bezel? possibly link me to a photo for comparison? I would be hugely appreciative! Thanks again
    Ian

  5. #5
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    Nov 2014
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    Thanks for your reply as well Dennis, I understand the problem I could be in for if the sizing doesn't work out perfect, but its a risk Im going to have to take because I'd like to replicate her design exactly. On the plus side I have dimensioned her original ring using callipers, and added an extra .2mm all the way around for polishing or possibly removing is sizing up is needed. Do you think I have added enough extra? Also does anybody have any idea how much material will have to be removed for polishing 3d printed items? Suppose it would be dependant on the printer resolution, but I was going with 2mm

    Thanks again

  6. #6
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    Ah sorry for wasting your time, googling supplied the answer! Ill draw it up later tonight and try to upload a picture! thanks

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    The size of the shank has been verified by you and unusually shaped shanks are quite common.

    But sizing and re-sizing in the future will have to be done without benefit of a ring stick. Also the use of a ring stretcher, triblet, or hammer would change its shape, so you are sacrificing convenience on the altar of art.

    You could avoid the problem by retaining the outer shape, which is all you see when on the finger, but making the finger hole round. Dennis.


    thoughts on the new version???

  8. #8
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    What do you reckon Ian?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gemsetterchris View Post
    What do you reckon Ian?
    Hey Chris, meant to quote you not dennis my bad, ya i started with an open bezel but this is what I ended up with, I suppose the prongs are still very large, but Id really rather over than under do it. How narrow would you say I can go for the prongs L x W? right now I think they are around .8mmx 1.2mm at the base of them where they connect to the ring. My one thought was maybe closer up to the top I can narrow them? Or should I leave them this size till the stones set then adjust?

    Thanks again
    Ian

  10. #10
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    I would make the claws on the thicker size as your not using an under bezel. Im trying to picture how you want th twist the calws around but cant get my head round it do you have a sketch ?

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