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  1. #1
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    Default Wax carving tools question

    Hi great Carvers of Cookson

    I've been asked to make a pendant based on a tattoo. I came up with the drawing below, which I figure is going to be much easier to cast than to hone from solid silver (Rapousse is waaay beyond my abilities).

    I'm fairly comfortable I could carve this from wax, but my question is about tools. Do wax carvers such as these HERE have to be used hot with an alcohol lamp, or can they be used cold to scrape away wax? I'm probably going to use green wax as I believe it's harder. The reason I wish to avoid heat is to take my time and not 'overshoot' on depth.

    Oh, the hollow tube idea was just brainstorming. The piece will be solid, with the rope and star added later for ease of carving/casting.

    Many thanks

    Vos
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2014110548945.jpg  
    Last edited by Vos; 05-11-2014 at 08:00 PM. Reason: my awful spellling
    All the gear and no idea

  2. #2
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    I use mine cold, but I also use one of these to remove larger areas http://www.suttontools.co.uk/wax-carver.html
    I actually do the majority of my carving with a needle file but Im probably a bit weird

  3. #3
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    Thanks Enigma

    It's funny you say that I was hoping to use needle files, so that'll make two of us

    Loving the electric carver too! If this was to get regular I'd certainly consider one, thanks for pointer
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  4. #4
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    Here are some of the tools on offer from Cookson: http://www.cooksongold.com/category_...uery=Wax+files.

    The very coarse files are better for wax, although some local pound shops have cheap needle files in their tool section, which are coarse enough. You also need a cheap (mini) wire brush to clean them from time to time as they clog.

    Wax can be added in places from a spare block, by touching it with a hot spatula (shown on the same page) and then dripping it from the spatula onto your piece.
    Again a set of assorted dental instruments from the tool section of a pound shop or Maplin, would do.

    Final polishing can be done with cotton wool wrapped around tweezers, wetted and heated briefly over a flame. You can also use eucalyptus oil or tea tree oil on cotton wool, but cold.

    The heat referred to can be provided by a mini-torch, or spirit lamp. Below is my cast dragon, but the wings were made from sheet and wire and soldered on later. Dennis.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dragon Brooch.jpg  

  5. #5
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    Dennis that is brilliant info, thank you. I will certainly be referring back once I have the necessary bits. And that looks like a hefty piece of silver!
    Last edited by Vos; 05-11-2014 at 10:57 PM.
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  6. #6
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    I actually use a normal needle file for most of mine after the bulk is removed , even going to the finest grade in a tiny file. Thats likely not the way its supposed to be done but I like it and it works well for me
    The wax files are great for removing bulk though.
    Love the dragon Dennis!

  7. #7
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    That looks like good stuff James, problem with wax modelling is the mess, it gets everywhere.

  8. #8
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    I shall find out soon!

    I just pulled the trigger on a casting set and those tools James linked to (thanks James)
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  9. #9
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    Good luck Vos, I look forward to seeing the results.

    James

  10. #10
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    Keep designs simple, I've tried it a few times years ago & it doesn't always work first time, so you need to play around abit with the air holes & extra metal weight ect..good fun though
    Last edited by Gemsetterchris; 08-11-2014 at 08:34 PM.

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