Flush setting in curved surfaces

[Tabby66]

Very helpful Peter thank you.....and you are quite right....a picture speaks a thousand words!!

[Aurarius]

Yes, this is very useful, Peter. Thanks.
I flush set some 2.3mm stones in a 4mm wide D-wire ring the other day and was unhappy about having to set the stones so low in order to ensure the girdles at the sides were adequately covered by metal. Also, the tendency for the holes to want to be oval, not round, was hard to eliminate.

[Dennis]

Well the point of my post above, is that if you consider a ring made from flat stock, the problem changes in that the stones have to be buried more deeply at the edges of the ring in order to be set in metal all round.

I think that is quite quirky. As for the holes tending to be oval, that can be remedied by turning the setting burr by hand in a universal handle, like Cookson 999AZM, using a touch of oil for lubrication.

That said I have seen a setter use a slightly oval hole and make an undercut on one of the narrow sides to click the stone into. this means it is already firm before you even start moving metal. Dennis.

[ps_bond]

A flat ring is thankfully a fairly shallow curvature. I can mock one up fairly quickly if you'd like?

The hole being oval is the result once the metal has been moved (burnished, hammered or pushed!) to retain the stone which means the funnel leading down to the girdle cannot be a neat circle; it just shows less with smaller stones.

[Dennis]

A flat ring is thankfully a fairly shallow curvature. I can mock one up fairly quickly if you'd like?

Yes I think it would be interesting Peter, particularly if the two pictures were side by side. Dennis.

[ps_bond]

Not side-by-side, but here's a thick (3mm) ring with the stones inset; 1.0-4.0mm in 0.5mm increments again. The curvature of the ring means the problem is much less pronounced for these sizes.



And the original:

Attachment 6555

[Dennis]

Thank you. Dennis.

[enigma]

I need to set a 4mm diamond into a ring,do you know if it is possible to inset it into 6mm by 3mm D shape wire please?

[Gemsetterchris]

It`s possible to set into the metal but *really* not a good idea.

[enigma]

Thanks Chris, why do you say that ?
I suggested claw set but the customer isnt keen so the suggestion atm is either inset or bezel set but until I get the wire Im not sure how a bezel would sit on it either ( I have some silver on order to make up the design first)