graver for bezels

[theresa]

Good morning - could someone point me in the right direction please? Is there a thread that shows the right way to neaten a bezel with a graver?
Preferably with pictures!
Thank you
Theresa

[Dennis]

You will no doubt soon get your answer Theresa, but as someone who struggles with controlling gravers, I find the use of flat needle files and escapement files files much less challenging.

All you have do do is to render one edge safe by grinding and polishing so as not to score the stone and then remember which side can be in contact without harm. Dennis.

[theresa]

Thanks Dennis - your way may prove to be the easier option! Never thought of grinding away one edge - that's what's so good about this forum.

[Gemsetterchris]

90 views & 1 helper :thumbdown:

No idea if there is a thread or youtube video on this but..graver wise you want a flat scorper a little bigger than the surface you want to cut.
Razor sharp & mirror polished underside.

I'd call the action *shaving* rather than cutting, & avoid touching the stone..which will either blunt the tool or score the stone.
Or use a small steel or brass burnisher with care.

The trick is a combination of mirror polished tool & control.
If you can get your bezel surface smooth & bright before setting, you'll minimize the afterwork.
The outside edge should be easy enough to figure out.

[theresa]

Thank you Chris. What is the difference between a scorper & graver?
Practice is what I need in spades!

[ps_bond]

Traditionally, a scorper is - AIUI - any graver that isn't square; not sure if a lozenge counts as a graver rather than a scorper though.

Gerry Lewy advocates using an onglette with the inside edge ground away, then sharpened so the outside leads - http://www.ganoksin.com/benchtube/vi...nglette-Graver

Blaine Lewis suggests annealing a tool steel flat graver for bright cutting near all but the softest stones (he also recommends testing the tool hardness - so he uses some opal rough to demonstrate that the annealed graver is softer). Won't scratch, but can still chip if there's a flaw.

[Goldsmith]

Theresa, this is a scorper.

The photos show a prepared scorper and a scorper as it is sold before preparation.



James

[camalidesign]

Very timely thread for me! I am just about to order a flat scorper but don't know what the sizes refer to. At Eurofindings (have to get a few things from there anyway and thought I might as well get the scorper while I'm at it!) they come in sizes 2 to 20, is this mm width??

Help gratefully received...

Edited: right, now I know what the sizes mean, but what size do I need? For example most of my bezels are made from 0.4mm fine silver or sometimes chunkier, thick 0.8-1.0mm ones. Do I get 2 different sizes, each slightly wider than the bezels, say 0.6mm and 1.2mm? Or is 1 enough e.g. 1.2mm?

Carin

[Goldsmith]

Very timely thread for me! I am just about to order a flat scorper but don't know what the sizes refer to. At Eurofindings (have to get a few things from there anyway and thought I might as well get the scorper while I'm at it!) they come in sizes 2 to 20, is this mm width??

Help gratefully received...

Edited: right, now I know what the sizes mean, but what size do I need? For example most of my bezels are made from 0.4mm fine silver or sometimes chunkier, thick 0.8-1.0mm ones. Do I get 2 different sizes, each slightly wider than the bezels, say 0.6mm and 1.2mm? Or is 1 enough e.g. 1.2mm?

Carin

You cannot have too many tools, I have dozens of scorpers of all shapes an sizes. I would suggest you start with a 1.2mm wide flat if you are just cutting bezels. I also use a 3mm. width flat scorper for a lot of jobs.

James

[camalidesign]

Thanks so much James, I love how generous you are with your knowledge! I'll get a 1.2mm one for now.

Also, out of interest, I would llike to start doing some very simple engraving, mainly just simple lines for now, what shape scorper should I use? Round edge, bullstick oval or spitstick? I want to cut lines that I can then gold plate into, so perhaps they need to be sort of rounded or even flat at the bottom, perhaps even start with a round or oval and finish with a smaller flat to get a surface to plate on to? Perhaps I just need to get a bunch of them and try it out, nothing like trial and error!

Carin