Ring blanks

**madsally** · 19-06-2014, 10:37 AM

Hello all,

Do any of you ever use ring blanks, like the ones sold by Cooksons? How much like cheating is it?

I'm not the greatest stone setter in the world; I've never had any formal tuition and I've been slowly teaching myself over the last couple of years, and although I'm getting better I'm still nervous about taking on important commissions involving stones.

A friend has enquired about an engagement ring - i've attached the example photo he sent me - of white gold, saphires and diamond. The picture is of his girlfriend trying on a ring she likes. I'm not sure why he doesn't just buy that one if he likes it so much, rather than ask me. I assume he prefers the idea of me making it, that or he thinks I'll be cheaper.

I'm not sure how to approach it. I wouldn't know how to begin making a ring like that.....which is why I ask about ring blanks, though I can't imagine much satisfaction in using one.

One day I'd like to be given a simple commission that doesn't involve so many questions!

Thoughts on blanks/how to approach such a ring very welcome.

thanks!

**Aurarius** · 19-06-2014, 06:14 PM

I've not done this kind of setting yet myself so I can only give you my feelings about it.

A prefabricated ring blank and a prefabricated 3 stone setting would save you a lot of work, but it would tie you to stones of a certain size. And of course there are still things that can go wrong. Aligning and soldering the setting into the shank with perfect symmetry and with minimal superfluous solder to clean away is not something I'd expect to achieve straighaway if I was able to say "I wouldn't know how to begin making a ring like that".

Setting the stones is even more fraught with possible problems. The seats or bearings will have to be cut in such a way that the tables of the stones sit in an absolutely smooth arc parallel with the contour of the ring. The prongs will need to apply even tension on the girdles of the stones, otherwise the stones may quickly work loose, assuming you don't crack a stone by applying too much lateral pressure while setting it. And the prongs will need to be finished so that they sit flush down on to the stones and don't have any sharp protrusions to catch on clothing, which they will if given the least excuse.

Personally I wouldn't go near a paid commission of this type involving diamonds or corundums with several noughts in the price-tag unless I knew I knew what I was doing and felt comfortable doing it. To achieve that I'd probably want to have completed several dozen rings of this kind already using CZ's or other low value stones.

Only take on work you're confident and comfortable doing. There is always another customer round the corner who'll give you something to do that is within your present capabilities. And it's easier to acquire skills than to reacquire a reputation you've lost. I'm not saying don't stretch yourself; I'm saying don't overreach yourself.

**Tabby66** · 19-06-2014, 08:58 PM

Hi Sally,
I'm afraid that no matter what level you are at in making jewellery, people you know will always see you as a cheap option,......they seem to think we get metal for free .....and to be fair,......remember that they don't understand the work and intricacies involved....if anything goes wrong during and after it will be YOUR problem.....

As for ring blanks, they serve a purpose and in terms of time to get to that stage (they often need a clean and tidy up) they probably make sense financially....unless you are able to make your own master to be cast from (then you have to consider shrinkage during the casting process and pretty fixed/limited stone sizes (and finger sizes)...

No would be my answer in your position..."I wouldn't know how to begin making a ring like that".......

**CJ57** · 19-06-2014, 10:07 PM

That look a a difficult ring, then I'm not a ring maker by choice, it's on my list of things to do even after 30+ years!
Does your friend realise commissioning someone to make something is usually a more expensive option if they are looking for a one off piece that they won't see walking down the High St ? Like you I wonder why they don't just buy the one she likes

**ps_bond** · 20-06-2014, 01:22 PM

If I were making it, I'd start with the head - 3 stone, 4 claw setting. Can't see what's been done with the shoulders other than them being set, but I'd probably cut them and solder in shoulders that went from the gallery on the outer settings to the cutout in the shank. Not terribly complex - and readily available as castings, so there's no significant benefit in fabricating from scratch unless there's specific reasons - such as odd stone sizes, reuse of customer's gold, that kind of thing.

However, if it's available off-the-shelf, I'd recommend they use that route. If they still want you to make it, then your quote probably ought to start somewhere around twice the retail price. You can't make it cheaper.