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Thread: Engraving / Etching

  1. #41
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    Eveness, it may be just that your iron is getting too hot because the thermostat is not working. However, if the problem persists I would suggest that you go back to the basic method which we used before PnP. Previously we just printed on transparencies, as used for overhead projectors, and we got it from Ryman or other stationers.

    Then iron onto the metal using medium heat and peel back while simultaneously sliding the iron aside. The toner should stay on the metal. If you still have bother, get a sheet printed at a print shop, as we all did originally.

    We certainly did not find this method too challenging, although the transfer was less perfect. That is, sometimes small scraps of print came off with the film.

  2. #42
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    Jul 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eveness View Post
    Hi Sandra,

    I posted up a couple of pictures to show what I mean, if you scroll back a couple of posts you should see them.

    I reversed my text on my pc first, then printed it on to matt side of the PNP paper (which I bought from Maplins).

    It's driving me round the bend but I'm determined to overcome this!

    Thanks for your input! Any other ideas are most welcome!
    Oh sorry! Somehow I missed an entire page on this thread! I'm more mystified than I was before after seeing the pictures.

  3. #43
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    May 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myosotis View Post
    I use a slightly different method of applying the image.

    I use an old iron clamped upside down in a vice on a non steam setting. Then a piece of kitchen roll (to be able to pick up the metal when it's hot), the piece of silver, then the pnp.

    Turn iron on, when the silver starts to get hot, I use the end of a pair of brass tweezers which happen to have a nice smooth rounded end and burnish the pnp quickly - you can tell where it has transferred to the metal so its easy not to miss any. Once image has been transferred I remove the silver, pop it onto a small steel block and when its cool enough to touch then remove the pnp.

    Haven't had any problems using this method
    I like the sound of how you do yours! I'll be giving this method a shot to see if it's quicker

    Any joy yet Eveness? x
    Last edited by Keia; 26-05-2014 at 10:16 PM. Reason: spellings
    Sian Williamson

  4. #44
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    Nov 2013
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    Ealing, United Kingdom, United Kingdom
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    Hi everyone! Been distracted with other stuff in the last week but I'm back and trying the tips you are suggesting.

    So I have reduced the heat down to wool, clamped my iron upside down and the transfer result is much improved! Take a look...I'm wondering if I can tidy this up enough to use or do you think I should be able to get a clearer transfer if I try again?

    Thanks all so much for your input so far...I'll keep trying all your suggestions until I master it!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #45
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    Nov 2013
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    Ealing, United Kingdom, United Kingdom
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    Hi Denis - looking at my attempt today...although it is much improved compared to the last go, it's still not good enough to get the result I need so Im going to try out the transparencies idea you mentioned and see how that compares! Fingers crossed!


    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    Eveness, it may be just that your iron is getting too hot because the thermostat is not working. However, if the problem persists I would suggest that you go back to the basic method which we used before PnP. Previously we just printed on transparencies, as used for overhead projectors, and we got it from Ryman or other stationers.

    Then iron onto the metal using medium heat and peel back while simultaneously sliding the iron aside. The toner should stay on the metal. If you still have bother, get a sheet printed at a print shop, as we all did originally.

    We certainly did not find this method too challenging, although the transfer was less perfect. That is, sometimes small scraps of print came off with the film.

  6. #46
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    Feb 2011
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    if you use transparencies as transfers, I found it is much easier to heat from below and then just let the heat suck the toner off the film before carefully lifting it off.

  7. #47
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    Nov 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by medusa View Post
    if you use transparencies as transfers, I found it is much easier to heat from below and then just let the heat suck the toner off the film before carefully lifting it off.
    I'm definately going to try that...Ive ordered some from Rymans today so hopefully it'll arrive in the next couple of days.

  8. #48
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    you need to get them printed on a laser printer though, inkjet is no good.

  9. #49
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    May be a really dumb question but why not just draw the images/lettering on with stop out?

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by enigma View Post
    May be a really dumb question but why not just draw the images/lettering on with stop out?
    I guess it is about having neat writing or the ability to draw. I do fingerprints so doing by hand is completely out for me. I think some people on here (Anna McDade springs to mind, though she doesn't post much) who do the old school way of scratching into a ground freehand and then acid etching the result.

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