Mysterious Polishing Problem

[Aurarius]

Thanks for your replies, Wallace and Dennis.

Wallace, when I dipped the latest ring in borax solution (Sutton's Magic Boric Dip) I think one problem may have been that the ring wasn't really clean, so the solution didn't really coat the ring thoroughly. It says on the bottle if you use this Magic Boric Dip you don't have to flux, but I've been using Aurflux as well. I only put this round the joint area and this was one area that ended up with no trace of firescale. Maybe I'll try degreasing the ring with lighter fuel before dipping next time, and I'll put flux over the whole ring and see whether this reduces the fire scale. As for clamps, I think I'm going to need these anyway when I start doing more ambitious soldering jobs; the titanium ones look a good bet.

Dennis, I'm glad to hear that a bigger torch may help. It's on the list. Probably a Sievert, because I'm not sure I want to have to have a separate oxygen tank/rebreather in the home. The Proxxon has worked well so far (I've only been doing jewelry for 2 months), but I did have one problem with it. On one occasion I think I overfilled it because when I ignited the torch it shot flame 18 inches across the table and I couldn't turn the flame down or shut it off as normal by turning the gas lever to zero; it kept belching out fire and I had to blow it out! Even when I'd blown it out butane still came pouring out of the nozzle, so I had to take the torch outside and burn off the excess gas in the open air for a couple of minutes before the torch was safe to use again. It wasn't a fun moment. Oh and in the upheaval I bent down for something and hit my head on the corner of my bench pin, so blood was flowing from my head while butane flowed out of the torch nozzle. It's nice to learn two valuable lessons in such quick succession.

I think the couple of occasions when the joint opened up during heating may have happened when I concentrated the heat too much around the join area at the expense of other areas. The saw blade I used to pass through the join was a Vallorbe 3/0. Looked at through a loupe, it seems to take quite a bit of meat away and doesn't always make for seamless rejoining, but maybe I'm using the saw ineptly. Or maybe I just need something finer for that job.

[Dennis]

Hi Mark,
Yes it is scary when torches turn into flame throwers. My main fear if not extinguished is that they might get hot enough to explode. You could consider getting a fire blanket to handle that next time. They are not expensive.

1. The saw blade you use is quite thin enough. Any thing thinner is more likely to go askew and cut a wedge out of you joint instead.

2. The best part of magic boric is the name. In test pieces I found it so ineffectual as a flux and scale preventer compared with other products, that I threw it out. As I said above, almost any flux will work. If you do not fancy making up boric acid in meths, then Walsh sell a ready made alcoholic mix, blue in colour, called fast flux soldering solution.

3. Please note, and it is not often stated, that to apply flux evenly, the metal should be warmed first and then allowed to dry. Hence the alcohol, to speed things up. Dennis.

[medusa]

it is also just possible that it is a bit of a flaw in the wire stock you are using. I sometimes get grey shadows in my plectrums which are never exposed to heat, just cut out from flat sheet. It's really frustrating.

[ShinyLauren]

I feel your firescale pain!

I also get the grey shadows on my castings, even when they've not had any soldering done on them. Is this a kind of firescale from the casting process?

[Aurarius]

Thanks for the further replies and tips.

Dennis, I think one of the reasons for failing to produce a neat join even after sawing through was that in manipulating the wire so much with pliers to get the ends to meet I had chewed the ends somewhat, changing their profile slightly. It's just another example of how doing things unskilfully at one stage creates extra difficulties for you at the next.

I've got to admit as well that I've been fairly cavalier about pickling up till now. I've got some proper pickle (the "safe" kind), but haven't even used it yet; I'm just using dilute vinegar and salt in a jam jar, which I heat in the microwave before use. And one of the earlier rings that got firescale, well I'll be honest I didn't even pickle it after soldering. My only excuse is that until now I'd thought that firescale was a fairly uncommon occurrence, rather than a perennial nuisance for everyone. Now I've learned a valuable lesson.

Many thanks.
Mark.

[Dennis]

This thread is not going to die just yet Mark, because there is so much more to discuss. In particular you could state with confidence that plier marks are another curse of of the jeweller.

If you have a decent hardware shop near you, then invest in the smallest quantity of clear plastic tubing, to fit one or both beaks of your pliers, particularly your ring pliers. This is a bit clumsy, but a simple and inexpensive remedy.

You might also consider a ring bending tool, which not only bends heavy wire quite easily (you bend the ends first and then the middle), but can exert pressure at a point opposite the seam to close the ends together.

As with all these things there are no instruction, but some of us have learned that a narrow leather strap laid on the jaws will avoid marking the outside of the ring, even if delicately textured.

If you look around, there are good bargains to be found for this tool. Dennis.

[Tabby66]

Hi Mark,
The join will be opening because you have work hardened the metal in the forming process, by bending, hammering, etc, when you heat the metal, the metal relaxes slightly, (e.g. such as when heating the metal to anneal it to make it more pliable), as a result you will often get slight movement in the joint......the up side of this, is that by gently heating a piece of metal that doesn't quite join, is being stubborn, you are with the gentle pressure able to close a joint ready to solder!!
Tabby

[Wallace]

ooh, a yes big reducing flame makes so much difference.

I have had many cursing moments with the separating problems, but with practice, I promise it will become easier as you learn what happens when you heat the metal. I started my days off with one of those get out of my way I know a plumber big can auto ignition flame throwers (well, it is was go gas with a clicky bit that sparks up) and looked a lot like this

the pdf is 177kb and the max allowance is 97.7kb, so sadly I cannot upload it, so have linked it to my blog on my web page.

[Aurarius]

Thanks again for everyone's replies. They're all very helpful. I'd be really in at the deep end without helpful people pointing out things like this.

Tabby, I didn't know anything about the matters you discuss; I'll bear them in mind in future.

Wallace, I really like that pendant you made called "Wings of the Pict". It's very elegant. How did you pattern the surface? With gravers?

Dennis, I can see you can't have too many different kinds of pliers in jewelry making. I hope I'll have a fullish range before too long.

I've uploaded a photo of a specialised pair of pliers I use in the other craft I've come from. I wonder if you can guess the craft. The photo also shows a simple holding device I made to enable me to hold rings while I work on their inside; my Dremel runs at a minimum speed of 10,000 rpm, and it was giving me friction burns at times when I was polishing the inside of my rings whilst holding them in my hand.

Thanks again. Mark.

[Wallace]

Wallace, I really like that pendant you made called "Wings of the Pict". It's very elegant. How did you pattern the surface? With gravers?

thank you Mark. That was made with the wonderful prize I won from Cookson's last year for an entry into one of their amazing competitions. It is the Fretz Goldsmith's hammer

I love working with it. I also used it for the Luna Moth's wings too.

I use the gravers mostly for stone setting, or creating lines like a picture in some of my things: Like the magpie feathers

I like that pair of pliers, would need to put some leather on them for good grip and no slip as well as preventing dinks and things.