Advice for setting teardrop shaped stone

[Sandra]

Hello all, I've been searching the internet for info on this and it's getting a bit overwhelming. I have teardrop shaped faceted stones that I want to create bezels for and I do not want a backing on them. I want the light to be able to shine through. Is there a good tutorial anyone is aware of I can take a look at? My gem setting experience is limited to only two previous projects so it needs to be more along the lines of "stone setting for dummies" I'm afraid.

I found this tutorial, not sure if it us worth spending the money though? http://www.interweavestore.com/exper...rming-download

[Dennis]

Hi Sandra, This always seems to worry people but turns out to be quite easy done like this:

Cut some bezel strip yourself from 0.4mm fine silver sheet. The width will be as high as you want the stone to sit, but in any case as high as from table (top) to culet (pointy bit). The reason is that you don't want the bottom to poke through.

To make the bezel, turn the stone upside down and stick onto a firm surface with a little fresh BluTack. A little flat box that you can turn is good for a surface.

Wrap the bezel around the stone with your fingers, starting at the point (but leave a little extra length), go round the curved part and end up at the point again. Then cut with scissors or shears. You can now grip the spare at the pointed end with a clip or tweezers to solder it with hard solder. At the point will be a tiny gap, which is good to prevent pressure on it. Cut off the surplus and this is done.

Now you need a smaller strip, for the stone to rest on, called the bearer. This can be bent up to fit inside, but does not have to go right into the point.
For the height keep the stone upside down and fit it with the stone in. Lift the two off the stone together to solder with easy solder. Any bearer strip that protrudes at the bottom can be rubbed off on flat sand paper at the end.

Now you have a bezel with a bearer. If making earrings be sure to mark what goes with what, as they will not match perfectly. File the top of the bezel so that it is only a third to a quarter of a mm taller than the edge of the stone and bevel the outside so that you will have a thin knife edge to push over.

Oh and you will need a small jump ring also added with easy solder to hang it by. Dennis

[Sandra]

Thank you Dennis for all the instructions. Some of it is difficult for me to picture though, I think I need to see this being done to fully understand everything!

[Dennis]

Thank you Dennis for all the instructions. Some of it is difficult for me to picture though, I think I need to see this being done to fully understand everything!

Here's a quick sketch, hoping it will help. Dennis.

[theresa]

My twopence worth - treat the pointed end with care - I chipped the point off a beautiful Topaz which is now sitting on my shelf looking at me!
Not sure what to do with it now....

[Dennis]

My twopence worth - treat the pointed end with care - I chipped the point off a beautiful Topaz which is now sitting on my shelf looking at me!
Not sure what to do with it now....

Here is my collection then. I call it my Box of Shame. Dennis

[Sandra]

Oh thank you, I'll let you know how it goes. I'm going to be soldering these onto a larger silver piece, at least that's the plan. I'm glad to know I'm not the only one with a box of shame, except mine contains mostly incinerated pieces of twisted metal. I do have a couple slightly melted cabochons in there too.

[Sandra]

Ok I am about to add some tear-shaped gemstones to cutout areas of a silver pendant, the plan is to create the bezels including a bearer strip and solder them in the openings. My gemstones though are very tiny, about 4x3mm. Is this something still doable using the technique mentioned here or are these too small to work with that way? Just hoping to avoid another disaster as this project so far is coming along pretty well.

[Dennis]

It is doable Sandra, especially if you have some magnification, such as a headband magnifier. Also if there are quite a few to do it helps to have a tear drop shaped mandrel. You can buy them, or file up your own from hardwood, plastic, or metal. Dennis.

[Sandra]

Thanks Dennis. Didn't know there was such a thing as a teardrop shaped mandrel! One thing yet, I understand the placement and concept of the bearer wire, but a bit unsure how I will go about soldering it together. I suspect it's this that will make or break the project from being successful! Working with such tiny bits there's the risk of poorly placed solder preventing the stone from sitting properly.