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Thread: setting tool

  1. #21

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    White water is a water soluble cutting oil. Look for MG1 on this page. The oil lubricates and the water keeps everything cool.

    I used a freshly ground HSS boring tool had a very slow feed rate and moderately fast spindle speed to get a fine finish.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Exeter, Devon
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    Oh, I see. So a clean up would make it work better, I will give it a try and see if when clean it makes a better job of the bezels.

  3. #23

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    second attempt (first one went pinging off across the room somewhere):

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I should have spent a bit more time making the bezel more round and fit the stone better but the result is still passable and shows the tool works.

  4. #24
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    Dec 2009
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    Central London
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    Hi Binraker,

    Thank you for sharing your mod. with us. I presume you took a hammer to it and I was thinking that for small sizes a rotating leather punch could be re-ground too. Or you could adapt a small press.

    While this works for tube settings with a flat, or solid base, once you are into more fragile constructions, you would need to support them with thermoplastic resin or setter's cement.

    Alternatively, I have found that the least traumatic way to set tubes on a fragile base is to use round nosed pliers. More ideally they have one beak ground slightly flat. This results in some distortion of the roundness, and here the cups can be used manually with a rocking and rotating movement to round them again. Dennis.

  5. #25
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    Apr 2010
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    Exeter, Devon
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    Are you supposed to use with a hammer, I have just been rotating them by hand, I must say, if I had known how useless they are I wouldnt have bought them in the first place. I bought them for finishing off tube settings, but have more success with a fine file and sandpaper.

  6. #26
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    Jul 2009
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    cotswolds
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    I use a hammer (gently!)

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Finland
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    Personally I recommend setting the traditional way, you really ought to be able to see the stone while working.
    There will always be fancy gadgets invented, they probably work but you will probably suffer in the long run.

    What happens when you don`t have the correct size, or a different shape stone? you`ll be well out of proper practice in the original methods...

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Exeter, Devon
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    I have just compared both, the ones I have are the cheapie set, and the funnel part is much deeper on the more expensive one. The handle of the tool looks better too on the more expensive one, mine hurts your hand its too small. Like Chris said, use the original method, I am not very good at keeping the top bit unblemished though and spend hours filing and sanding off the marks on the rim.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Finland
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    724

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patstone View Post
    I am not very good at keeping the top bit unblemished though
    Check your tool is "smooth", best to be abit rough but not dented as they transfer when pushing (like using a stamp)!
    Too smooth & polished just causes slipping.
    Nevermind a few rough bits..so long as you have ample thickness left after cleanup..get some rubber wheels, save the skin on your fingers.


    Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

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